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In Conversation with: Kenneth Kuan, founder of Delugs

Katherine Arteche — Wed, 04 Oct 2023 00:00:31 +0000

In Conversation with: Kenneth Kuan, founder of Delugs

Five years since their official launch, Delugs is on their way to going places. Kenneth Kuan, Founder of Delugs, talks to us about being a business owner, a watch collector, and tips on taking care of your strap game.

Interviews

By Katherine Arteche

Oct 4, 2023

It’s a classic question to every business idea: ‘What If?’ Delugs Founder Kenneth Kuan (better known to friends and fans as Ken), wondered, “What if I used my leather crafting expertise to create watch straps?” If you’re looking down at your watch now and have begun to scrutinize the mild frays of your cracked leather band, maybe it’s time to shop for a whole new wrist wardrobe.

Last month, Ken launched Delugs’ YouTube channel, with a reintroduction of the homegrown brand. Since 2018, the leather atelier is on their way to becoming a watch accessories enterprise, from launching a wide range of ready-to-wear pieces to honing their bespoke program. Looking ahead to 2023, Delugs plans to expand its rubber strap collection, offering regular straps and integrated options for various sports models.

Founder of Delugs, Kenneth Kuan. Image: Revolution ©

As we settled into our conversation at the Revolution Watch Bar, Ken whipped out various tools from a nondescript canvas bag that he used in his early leather crafting days – a skiving knife, picking iron, hole puncher, and a stitching pony, to name a few. With a sizable team that’s now under his employ and the use of more automated systems, the tools now serve as a humbling, and perhaps to an extent, sentimental, reminder as to how he started.

“My hope is that brands will see us more as partners,” said Ken. “My message to them is that I’m not your competitor.”

Image: Revolution ©

Among the workshop paraphernalia of old, he also pulled out a roll of custom dyed Himalayan alligator leather that stretched no longer than a meter in length. Taking several completed straps, he matched their grain to various areas of the alligator. The most favorable parts are the midsection, i.e. the belly and the flank. At least 10 straps can be extracted from this piece.

“Let’s be real, there’s a lot of parts of the leather that you can’t use,” said Ken, as we started to discuss sustainability practices at his workshop. “The parts are either scarred or come from an unfavorable section that produces no pattern. However, we are looking at making smaller items with those, such as keychains or keepers on the straps.”

He’s just Ken: The watch collector

Ken describes himself as a rookie to the watch world as he started his watch collecting journey about five years ago, at about the same time he started his leather crafting business. “My watch collection started out with dress watches. Even at this point, I only have a couple of Rolex watches; leather straps do not go well with Rolex watches at all.

“Call it an occupational hazard but with Delugs creating these great rubber straps, I find myself leaning towards sports watches. Admittedly, it’s an R&D thing for me sometimes, as I put them on just to test things out.”

Image: Revolution ©

Ken shared that his current affinity is with independent brands. And with the selections from his impressive personal collection, it’s a well curated one. It includes a Grönefeld, Romain Gauthier, MB&F, De Bethune, a Cartier Cintrée, a limited edition Seiko Presage with a blue “ice shard” dial (his first acquisition), and one of his more recent additions, a blue-dialed Pascal Coyon whose caseback houses a generously sized exhibition crystal.

“The spirit of independent watchmaking is something I can relate to in terms of how I run Delugs as an independent business owner myself,” said Ken. “You get to push the envelope a little bit more, and you treat every project like a new novelty.

Image: Revolution ©

“And what drives them is simply their passion. They have a certain idea on what they want to bring to the world – they get to cut out the bureaucratic practices, and I daresay even the financial logic to things. You get to contemplate if it’ll even make financial sense, unlike the bigger brands who have to answer for the expected revenue, market share, etc.

“Needless to say, it’s much easier to work with independent brands. Getting a meeting with them is comparatively more accessible, and you get to deal with the founders themselves.

“That’s exactly what happened with Sartory Billard. After I received my watch order for one of his watches, I took a photo of it with one of our curved straps. When he saw it, he invited me to a discussion to produce the rubber straps for his next sports watch. Just like that.”

The Future is Delugs

So now that we’ve established that Delugs makes good straps, what’s the challenge? “There’s a certain level of brand acceptance that we’re still working towards,” said Ken. “The day has yet to come where people would want to have a Delugs strap onto their Rolex watch, for example. It’s Frankenstein in a way, still.”

And metal bracelets are not off the table. “We’re definitely looking into it. The aim is to be the go-to business for all sorts of watch accessories, and producing metal bracelets would be a natural progression.

A Delugs prototype clasp. Image: Revolution ©

“It will be trickier, because bracelets are often designed together with the watch case it came with, so I foresee challenges in getting someone to switch their bracelet out for something that’s not. Metal bracelets also require fine details that will improve its quality of life, per se. Take for example, micro-adjustment features and quick-switch systems.”

Ken’s parting advice for a good strap game

“The two main things I’ve noticed that people do with their watch straps is, firstly, they’re wearing straps that are not at a right length for their wrists, especially for the ladies,” he said. “They settle with stock straps that don’t sit well, typically very loose, and in turn, both the strap and the watch could get ruined.”

“Watch straps have an “overhang” too. Fabric straps with a long tail are akin to wrongly-sized clothing: They just don’t fit.”

The Delugs expert: Ken dresses Omega, IWC, Hermès

How would you dress an Omega Seamaster Ploprof 75th Anniversary?

Omega Seamaster Ploprof 75th Anniversary
Delugs baby blue CTS rubber strap

“Definitely our baby blue rubber strap.”

How would you dress an IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun?

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun
Delugs dark grey Alcantara strap

“I would go with a gray alcantara strap with red stitching. And if I’m crazy enough, I’ll add a red keeper as well.”

How would you dress an Hermès H08 in yellow?

Hermès H08
Delugs white CTS rubber strap

“Yellow is a tough one for us, we don’t have enough yellow straps. [laughs] I’ll go with a white rubber strap. The color is luxurious and represents confidence. It says: ‘I know it can get dirty but I know how to take care of it that it will not be.’”

Reference

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Angelus

ANGELUS x REVOLUTION CHRONODATE "ANGELS' SHARE"

$23,800.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber A-500; 60 hours power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	42.5mm; titanium; water resistant to 30m
Dial	Salmon (6N gold plated) with gené or frosted area; Super-LumiNova filled Arabic numerals
Strap	Ballistic gray rubber; titanium folding clasp

The post In Conversation with: Kenneth Kuan, founder of Delugs appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Right on the Mark: Montblanc × Collective Horology 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph ‘Blue Arrow’ P.05

Cheryl Chia — Tue, 03 Oct 2023 13:00:59 +0000

Right on the Mark: Montblanc × Collective Horology 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph ‘Blue Arrow’ P.05

A refreshing, spirited take on one of the most beautiful chronographs in watchmaking.

News

By Cheryl Chia

Oct 3, 2023

Following its collaboration with Czapek & Cie., Collective Horology, the California-based watch club founded in 2018 by Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly, is back with another spectacular limited edition. In the last five years, Collective has produced seven limited editions divided between two series: “Collective,” which highlights the duo’s favorite watch brands such as Zenith and IWC, and “Portfolio,” aimed at showcasing the work of high-end independent watchmakers like J.N. Shapiro and Armin Strom. The eighth limited edition, a collaboration with Montblanc, is an interesting one. Although Montblanc is not an independent watchmaker, the watch is part of the Portfolio series, simply because it houses one of the finest chronograph movements on the market.

Montblanc began its foray into watchmaking in 1997 with watches powered by ETA movements. But it was the integration of the historic Minerva manufacture in 2007 that really moved the needle, giving Montblanc true watchmaking prowess. The legendary luxury pen maker has firmly established itself in the realm of watchmaking today, employing a distinctive multi-tier manufacturing strategy that encompasses entry-level timepieces equipped with either Sellita or mass-produced in-house movements, while also delving into the pinnacle of haute horlogerie, notably with chronograph movements adapted from legendary stopwatch calibers produced by Minerva in the early 20th century.

The Montblanc × Collective Horology 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph “Blue Arrow” P.05 edition is based on the “Red Arrow” version released last year. The “Red Arrow” model leaned into its pilot’s watch inspiration, featuring a high contrast of faux patina on the numerals and white scales against a black dial. Collective’s P.05 “Blue Arrow,” however, is a spirited and sporty take on the watch. While it maintains the same stainless steel case with a white gold fluted bezel, its new dial colors add a layer of nuance and dazzle that underscore the value of such collector-focused collaborations.

Montblanc × Collective Horology 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph “Blue Arrow” P.05

It was a Minerva yacht timer offered by Eric Wind of Wind Vintage that ignited their creative journey. It featured a tricolored 15-minute countdown timer against a white dial that had aged to a creamy yellow patina. Gabe Reilly, elaborated, saying, “When we saw a mid-century Minerva stopwatch sitting in Eric Wind’s case, lightning struck. Not only was the historical significance of Minerva palpable and compelling, but the opportunity to create a sportier take on the current collection was clear as day. Needless to say, we immediately purchased the stopwatch, and began work on design.” Subsequently, they delved extensively into researching various Minerva stopwatches to formulate the color palette for this watch.

The result is a dial adorned with a dynamic color scheme that also tangentially recalls the eye-catching regatta wristwatches of the ’60s and ’70s. It is executed in glossy white lacquer with yellow registers for subtle contrast. The central chronograph and minute totalizer hands are thermally blued, distinguishing them from the lumed pencil style hour and minute hands and running seconds, which are coated black. The telemeter scale on the outer rim and a snail-shaped tachymeter in the middle are in a vivid sky blue, lending the watch a unique identity of its own. And along the periphery of the dial is the eponymous “Blue Arrow” which can be operated bidirectionally using the rotating bezel.

A striking double-signed dial executed in white lacquer with the chronograph seconds and minute hands in blued steel

Most notably, this is one of the only Montblanc watches where the Montblanc logo shares its real estate with Minerva. Positioned at six o’clock on the dial is the distinctive Minerva logo featuring its iconic spear. Today, Montblanc offers a bewildering array of chronographs which are powered by movements across various price points. This emblem immediately sets it apart from the rest, indicating the presence of a Minerva movement.

The top surfaces of the lugs and the caseband are satin-finished and are separated by a distinctive polished bevel. At 42mm in diameter, the case undeniably leans toward the larger end of the spectrum but its expansive dial has been put to good use, accommodating the blue arrow that can be used as a zero marker to track elapsed time or operate as a countdown timer.

The satin brushed top surfaces of the lugs and case band are divided by a polished bevel

The caliber MB M13.21 within is a large 13-ligne movement based on the Minerva caliber 13.20 that was made for pocket watches in the 1920s. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the movement is a beautifully traditional hand wound monopusher chronograph with a column wheel and horizontal coupling system. It features many appealing details that set it apart from the Lemania-derived chronographs within its price segment. The levers, for instance, are slender and sinuous, featuring intricate contours that demand hand finishing. Minerva, or Villeret as it is known today, employs manual files for anglage, in contrast to the polishing wheels or handheld rotary tools commonly used in other chronographs within its price category, giving it a distinct artisanal look.

The reset and devil's tail brake lever are beautifully finished with sharp internal angles

The reset lever is particularly beautiful, boasting elegant curves and a sharp internal angle at their intersection while the brake lever ends with a distinctive arrowhead, a shape that lends itself to two internal angles. Known as the “devil’s tail,” this feature is present in all Minerva movements and pays homage to the brand’s arrowhead emblem. The V-shaped chronograph bridge exhibits rounded, polished bevels incorporating sharp, inward and outward angles that are exceptionally pronounced while the teeth of the exposed crown and barrel ratchet wheels have also been finely polished at their edges.

The anglage on the V-shaped chronograph bridge is rounded and exceptionally pronounced

The movement features a large balance wheel that operates at a traditional 2.5Hz frequency. It employs a swan-neck regulator to control the position of the regulator pins, which determine the active length of the hairspring. The finishing of steelwork of the swan-neck and regulator lever are equally impressive. Not only are they black-polished on their top surfaces, but they are also beveled and polished along their entire length.

Evidently, the 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph “Blue Arrow” P.05 is once again a highly compelling limited edition from Collective. While it drew inspiration from early 20th century stopwatches, the execution is punchy, youthful and entirely unique. It is limited to just 30 pieces and, despite all that, it is attractively priced at USD 34,500 relative to analogous offerings in its price bracket that do not offer the same level of craft.

Montblanc × Collective Horology 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph “Blue Arrow” P.05

Tech Specs

Montblanc × Collective Horology 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph “Blue Arrow” P.05

Movement: Manual winding caliber MB M13.21; 60-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds and chronograph
Case: 42mm; stainless steel with 18K white gold fluted bidirectional bezel; water resistant to 30m
Dial: White lacquered with stopwatch inspired color palette, Minerva logo at six o’clock; black Arabic numerals
Strap: Black textile
Price: USD 34,500
Availability: Limited edition of 30 pieces; exclusively at Collective Horology’s online shop, collectivehorology.com.

Reference

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FROM THE SHOP

Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross x Alessandro Palazzi x Revolution & The Rake Bellytanker Chronograph "Vesper"

$5,250.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber BR.CAL-301; 42-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	41mm; CuAI7Si2 bronze; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices
Strap	Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post Right on the Mark: Montblanc × Collective Horology 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph ‘Blue Arrow’ P.05 appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Bell & Ross Updates the Iconic BR 03

Katherine Arteche — Thu, 07 Sep 2023 13:00:49 +0000

Bell & Ross Updates the Iconic BR 03

Bell & Ross isn’t killing the square just yet. Instead, Bell & Ross has refreshed the BR 03, first by giving it a smaller case. We talk to Fabien de Nonancourt, Managing Director of Bell & Ross, all about the new, yet subtle, makeover.

News

By Katherine Arteche

Sep 7, 2023

In 2005, the iconic BR 01 made its commanding debut with a robust 46mm case, followed by the equally successful 42mm model in 2006. Now, rather than reimagining their classic, Bell & Ross opted to fine-tune it.

Bruno Belamich, the brand’s Co-founder and Creative Director, explains the approach: “With the new BR 03, we modified the proportions of the collection by respecting its canons. Our goal was to preserve the identity that has made the BR 03 so successful, while adapting it to the new times and maintaining its allure.”

Bell & Ross BR 03 Black Steel

A mere 1mm doesn’t seem like a big deal, yet the subtle shift from 42mm to 41mm alters the visual and tactile experience of the watch. This includes the lugs that now measure 4mm, rounded corners, a narrower rubber strap, and is now equipped with the BR-CAL.302 caliber.

This automatic-winding movement has been a mainstay in most of Bell & Ross’ dive watches, mainly the BR 03-92 model, as well as in some BR 01s and the occasional Bellytanker. It’s fuss-free, powers the main hours and date, and offers an extended power reserve of 54 hours.

Bell & Ross BR 03 Heritage

In spite of the new introduction, Bell & Ross isn’t discontinuing the BR 03 models in 42mm at all. They’ve been reduced in order to meet the current market demands of smaller watches, said Fabien de Nonancourt, Managing Director of Bell & Ross.

In the Instruments category alone (the other main categories being ‘Urban’ and ‘Vintage’), the brand is capable of making smaller watches, such as the BR S Auto, a compacted version at 39mm. These are equipped with the BR-CAL.302 caliber as well, however as the dial clearly shows, there isn’t much real estate for the oversized Arabic numerals.

BR 03 in steel and ceramic

The polished steel variants — Black Steel, Blue Steel, and Golden Heritage — feature dials in black, blue, and brown, respectively.

Bell & Ross BR 03 Blue Steel
Bell & Ross BR 03 Golden Heritage

Bell & Ross BR 03 Black Steel
Bell & Ross BR 03 Copper

The Copper, sporting a salmon-colored dial, gets its name and color from the galvanized copper treatment. Black numerals and indices are used for contrast, with blue metallic hands as a complementing accent.

Bell & Ross BR 03 Heritage
Bell & Ross BR 03 Black Matte

Bell & Ross BR 03 Phantom
Bell & Ross BR 03 Miltary Ceramic

The black-cased editions include Black Matte, Phantom, Heritage, and Military Ceramic, the latter featuring a matte black ceramic case with a khaki dial, harkening back to the brand’s military-inspired roots.

BR 03: The Bell & Ross icon

When Bell & Ross launched the BR 05 in 2019, it was meant to be a modernized version of the original square watch, hence it introduced a more integrated shape, as well as an interpretation of a sporty steel bracelet. “The BR 05 and the BR 03 are both different interpretations of the flight instrument,” said de Nonancourt. “Our intention in making the BR 03 smaller is not to address the same people wearing the 05 — they’re two separate customers.

“People who wear Bell & Ross are typically male, as they make up 90 percent of our community. I would describe them as people who are looking for something different, but not ostentatious. He would have a bold personality, and perhaps believe that he’s an explorer.”

Fabien de Nonancourt, Managing Director of Bell & Ross

With the Bell & Ross identity anchored in place, what should Bell & Ross be communicating about next? “For a long time, our brand communication has been product-oriented,” said de Nonancourt.

“Now, that has changed a little bit. One of our first moves was the launch of the X5 last year and that focused on the movement and Swiss craftsmanship. For the relaunch of our 03, our campaign is more focused on the design story: the unmistakable round-in-a-square shape and our continued inspiration from the world of aviation.”

Bell & Ross BR 03 Military Ceramic

“Our brand partnerships have been very effective for us, especially in the aviation and military sectors. You can easily say your watches are the best for pilots, but what better way than to have real professionals be equipped with them? Sure, you can conduct hundreds of tests, but the ultimate test is having the watch in play, where they’re in extreme conditions. Our watches may not be on the red carpet, but they’re out there resisting G-force.”

Tech Specs: Bell & Ross BR 03 41mm

Movement: BR-CAL.302 automatic-winding caliber; 54-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; Seconds; Date
Case: 41.0mm; Stainless steel or black ceramic; Sapphire crystal; Water-resistant to 100 meters
Dial: Black, brown or blue sunray, gilt copper (Steel); Black (with white or beige transfer numerals; with black Bilight® numerals), Khaki (Black ceramic); Super-LumiNova®
Strap: Rubber (black or khaki), Calfskin (brown or blue)
Price: From S$5,100

Reference

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Angelus

ANGELUS x REVOLUTION CHRONODATE "ANGELS' SHARE"

$23,800.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber A-500; 60 hours power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	42.5mm; titanium; water resistant to 30m
Dial	Salmon (6N gold plated) with gené or frosted area; Super-LumiNova filled Arabic numerals
Strap	Ballistic gray rubber; titanium folding clasp

The post Bell & Ross Updates the Iconic BR 03 appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Standing the Test of Time: Review of Junghans Meister Pilot Chronoscope

Bhanu Chopra — Fri, 01 Sep 2023 07:00:30 +0000

Standing the Test of Time: Review of Junghans Meister Pilot Chronoscope

News

By Bhanu Chopra

Sep 1, 2023

Since its establishment in the early 20th century, Junghans has been a renowned manufacturer of mechanical timepieces that have played a vital role in aviation history. These timepieces served as indispensable instruments for determining flight duration in airships and airplanes, long before the advent of GPS tracking systems. In fact, Junghans timepieces were crucial for determining position, speed, and distance during this era.

One of the most significant artifacts from this period is the original airship clock, which has been remarkably preserved and stands as a testament to the extensive use of Junghans timepieces in aeronautics. This clock was utilized in the cockpit of the Zeppelin L55, a remarkable airship that reached an altitude of over 7,600 meters in 1917 while skillfully avoiding British reconnaissance planes, thereby setting a new record.

Junghans Airship Clock L55

Zeppelin over Schramberg

The advancement of technology not only enabled unprecedented altitudes to be reached but also facilitated longer distances to be covered. In the 1930s, Junghans addressed the need to keep passengers informed of the current local time during journeys spanning multiple time zones by developing a special clock system for airships. This innovative system incorporated electronic synchronization, allowing only the main clock in the control gondola to be adjusted, while all auxiliary clocks in cabins and dining areas automatically synchronized with it. One remarkable example of this technology is the Junghans Airship Clock L55.

Throughout the 1930s, Junghans supplied onboard clocks for various aircraft, including the Messerschmidt Me 110. A notable timepiece from this period is the 24-hour onboard clock with a second time zone, which Junghans produced in the 1950s as one of the few companies in the aviation industry to do so. This exemplifies the changing perception of space and time in aviation.

Furthermore, when the newly established Bundeswehr was in search of a reliable service watch for its pilots, Junghans was awarded the contract for its pilot chronograph. This exceptional timepiece was powered by the J88 intermediate wheel chronograph, which had been meticulously developed and tested to withstand all centrifugal forces in Schramberg.

Bundeswehr Chronograph 1958

The Junghans J88/0110 was delivered to the Bundeswehr in 1959 and its appearance is very similar to the two predecessors – Hanhart chronographs 417E (brass) and 417ES (stainless steel). The issued watch had “Versorgungsnummer” (supply number) of (6645-) 12-124-8591 or 12-120-9351. The J88 chronograph had a chrome-plated brass case, domed Hesalite crystal, radium numerals, and a rather small diameter of 38 mm. The Junghans Bundeswehr Chronograph was fitted with the beautiful 19 jewels column wheel caliber, commonly known as the Caliber J88, which had been sitting in a Junghans drawer since the end of the Second World War. The J88 movement does not feature the flyback complication and is the only manual chronograph movement delivered to the Bundeswehr that doesn’t feature a flyback complication.

Junghans produced the J88 from 1950 until the mid-60’s and after supplying the watches to Bundeswehr, it later sold them to civilians. Model J88/0110 was quickly followed by the more common J88/0111 with the characteristic twelve-edged bezel. The German Airforce pilots loved the bezel since it was easy to operate, even with gloves. The twelve-edged bezel to this day remains unique, found only in the Junghans Meister Pilot collection.

Junghans experimented with various Pilot’s watch designs during the late 90’s and the 2000’s. In 2016 the brand introduced a replica of the Model J88/0110 called “Meister Pilot”, an oversized pilot watch powered by ETA 2824/Sellita SW200 with a Dubois Depraz 2030 module. It became an instant success for Junghans with the identifiable twelve-edged bezel and vintage inspired dial.

Unlike the 2016 edition which was a replica of Model J88/0110, the latest limited edition Junghans Meister Pilot Chronoscope in navy blue dial pays homage to the legendary North American Curtiss P-40 from the history of the US Air Force. It is more masculine than the normal Meister Pilot Chronoscope due to the combination of DLC-coated case and navy blue dial with red accents. Apart from dial color and DLC-coated the case, the rest remains the same as 2016 Meister Pilot Chronoscope.

Junghans Meister Pilot Chronoscope

The 43.3mm steel case on Meister Pilot Chronoscope features a very attractive bi-directional rotating bezel, with 12 distinctive concave notches which references the aforementioned chronograph of the 1950s. The chronograph pushers are oval, a feature you do not see that often, and have long shafts. Due to their design, they are easy to operate. The non-screw-in crown is easy to grip and large enough to operate. The crown is signed with Junghans logo, a star with a J in the center. The bi-directional dodecagonal bezel is the icing on the cake and the most recognizable feature of the Junghans Meister Pilot. Handling with gloves is not a problem at all. Even though the bezel is visually intriguing, it lacks a ratcheting bezel to avoid unintentional turns. The domed sapphire crystal has anti-reflective coating on both sides, which makes for great legibility.

The bi-compax layout on the navy blue dial is well balanced. The recessed sub dials make for a good visual. The hands are in the correct length and contribute to good legibility. The center stop seconds hand is very slim and features a red triangular tip along with an elongated counterweight. Junghans, the company known for Max Bill Bauhaus design, made the imprints on dial minimal and in miniature font. The printed Arabic numerals have a generous coat of luminous numerals (printed) and sword-shaped hour and minute hands. The case back is solid featuring a hand-drawn nose art engraving. The convex shape with short curved down lugs, make the watch extremely comfortable to wear. A much-needed feature for those with a smaller wrist.

Meister Pilot Chronoscope is powered by J880.4 automatic movement, which is essentially an ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW 200-1 base, with an additional Dubois-Depraz 2030 chronograph module. The pilot-style strap is in black and navy blue 22mm calf leather with a DLC-coated stainless steel buckle.

For a Pilot’s watch enthusiast, Junghans Meister Pilot Chronoscope incorporates a lot of vintage vibes. With a retail price of $2,910, this limited-edition chronograph is adequately priced and worthy of value the watch provides. It can be an excellent choice if you are looking for a German made chronograph with a genuine history and an overall unique design.

Tech Specs

Junghans Meister Pilot Chronoscope Navy Blue Ref. 27/3396.00

Movement: Self-winding J880.4 caliber (ETA/Sellita base with Dubois-Depraz 2030 chronograph module); 38 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, 30-minute chronograph
Case: 43.3mm x 14.4mm, DLC-coated stainless steel, 100 meters water resistance
Dial: Navy blue with red accents, hands filled with environmentally friendly luminous substance
Strap: Leather strap with riveting, DLC-coated stainless steel buckle
Availability: Limited to 300 pieces
Price: USD 2,910

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FROM THE SHOP

Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross x Alessandro Palazzi x Revolution & The Rake Bellytanker Chronograph "Vesper"

$5,250.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber BR.CAL-301; 42-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	41mm; CuAI7Si2 bronze; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices
Strap	Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post Standing the Test of Time: Review of Junghans Meister Pilot Chronoscope appeared first on Revolution Watch.

All lit up, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces

Rob Nudds — Mon, 28 Aug 2023 07:00:24 +0000

All lit up, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces

Featuring a fully luminous dial.

News

By Rob Nudds

Aug 28, 2023

It’s low-hanging fruit. Too easy, some might say. It’s been done before by however many brands trying to make a name for themselves with something wacky and wild but it’s not the kind of thing a serious brand like IWC would bother with, right?

I would have said the same. I would almost have hoped it were true. I would never have imagined receiving the news that the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces was set to become the Schaffhausen-based brand’s first fully luminous Flieger and having my dismissively cocked eyebrow almost immediately joined by its twin, raised together in utter shock and delight. This watch is cooler than it has any right to be and my only thought was, “How do I get one and how much will it cost me?”

IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 Black Aces

The death of FOMO (not a single tear was shed)

Remarkably, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces is not limited. Instead, it is an online exclusive available only from IWC.com. If you need a bit of time to process that, take it. There is no rush. You can decide in peace and at your own pace if you want this piece so when you do eventually pull the trigger, you’ll know you did it for the right reasons.

IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 Black Aces

While I imagine production volumes will be low and IWC will keep the model on a tight leash, frequently marking it as sold out or requiring customers to join a waiting list, I have high hopes that those that want this watch will eventually be able to get one on their wrists. IWC has not commented directly on how long the model will remain in the collection, but it seems to me that they will keep it around for as long as it continues to sell in sufficient volumes in much the same way Tudor has allowed the once-thought-to-be-ephemeral Pelagos LHD to linger in light of its persistent popularity.

Clever product planning wins the day

Aside from the (very) cool design of this new reference, it is a cleverly conceived product drop from IWC, especially given its unknown commercial clout. While I think this model will sell very well, it is fair to wonder given IWC has no prior experience in the fully lumed dial field and might want to limit its losses should things go awry.

And that’s where the brand has been very clever. The Black Aces online exclusive joins the Pilot’s Watch Automatic Top Gun (reference IW326906) as the only 41 mm wide, 11.4 mm thick ceramic-cased watches in the collection. Crucially, these watches share a case, a crown, and case backs that are identical until they are engraved. Additionally, both watches use stock straps.

IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Top Gun (reference IW326906)

While the Top Gun model boasts a slightly superior movement (it is powered by the IWC caliber 32111, which has a 120-hour power reserve versus the 72-hour power reserve of the IWC caliber 32000 fitted to the Black Aces piece), the Black Aces has its more exciting dial — a visual/technical tradeoff that likely results in both pieces costing IWC roughly the same amount to produce without having to blow the budget on R&D. It is effectively a new dial paired with an off-the-shelf movement, which enables IWC to offer the IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 Black Aces model for USD 6,800, just $450 more than the USD 6,350 ticket price of the Automatic Top Gun.

Does the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces measure up?

But does the glow-in-the-dark wow factor amount to a premium of almost 500 bucks? That is a very personal choice that will no doubt be affected by how much you lament the absence of the “better” movement.

For me, the lynchpin of this design is the Ace of Spades at six o’clock, which is inspired by a pilot’s watch that IWC engineered for members of Strike Fighter Squadron 41 (VFA-41), also known as the “Black Aces”. Were it not for that particular touch, I actually wouldn’t be rushing to count my pennies as I am right now. It might seem like an odd thing to be the difference maker, but it’s the combination of elements I love. I love squadron logos. They give me such a rush to see when I look down at my wrist not because I am pretending that I am part of the same team, but simply because thinking of their exploits gets me high.

IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 Black Aces

What would make this watch perfect?

If you can get over the slight bleed around the edges of the pad-printed numerals and Ace of Spades decal that is a common drawback to printing on solid luminous surfaces, then this design, along with the extended flash of red on the seconds, is one of the most exciting IWC has put out at the sub-10K bracket for quite some time.

IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 Black Aces

The question is, how hard would it be to improve that printing? Even A. Lange & Söhne has been unable to overcome the same hurdle (if you don’t believe me, check the second numeral on the big date of the Lange 1 Lumen under a loupe and tell me what you see).

My suggestions? Cover the solid luminous disc with an imperceptible layer of anti-reflective-coated sapphire and print the numerals on that. Alternatively, if you’re concerned about reflections, then why not use low-rise, mattified applied numerals and a solid applied minute track that sits under the lip of the case and adds visual depth to the dial in addition to extreme legibility?

IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 Black Aces

Lastly, give me the 120-hour power reserve of Caliber 32111. If IWC made those moves, I’d feel comfortable (enthusiastic, even) with this watch coming in around USD 7,500. In fact, I think with those specs (and possibly an open case back), it’d be almost unbeatable.

However, despite those musings, I love this watch as it is. There are good arguments for every design and technical decision IWC has made (from authenticity to reliability), and I accept that. In the context of the brand’s current lineup and the industry in general, I think this is one of the more fun and desirable pieces in a long while, and at USD 6,800 and no pressure to buy immediately thanks to its unlimited nature, I will add this to the my buy list and wait and see if it creeps up to the top spot. Truth be told, I wouldn’t be surprised if it did.

IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 Black Aces Specs and Price

Reference: IW326905
Movement: IWC Caliber 32100 with a 72-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Case: 41 mm × 11.4 mm black zirconium oxide ceramic case, water-resistant to 60 m
Dial: Fully luminous with black Arabic numerals and Black Aces insignia at 6 o’clock
Strap: Black fabric strap
Price: USD 6,800

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Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post All lit up, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces appeared first on Revolution Watch.

FIFA Women’s World Cup – Football Stars and Their Watches

Revolution — Fri, 04 Aug 2023 09:00:55 +0000

FIFA Women’s World Cup – Football Stars and Their Watches

The highly anticipated 2023 edition of the FIFA Women’s World Cup is underway and it’s already making headlines as the biggest and most surprising World Cups we’ve seen in decades. The superstars from the pitch are making waves off the pitch too, captivating the world with their impeccable fashion sense where their fashion-forward choices in luxury watches and sneakers are nothing short of extraordinary.

News

By Revolution

Aug 4, 2023

With eBay’s depth and breadth of inventory, fans can easily snag their favorite World Cup-worthy styles from the sidelines. Amidst eBay’s vast selection of inventory, the best finds from top players like Alex Morgan (she loves to talk about her Panda Dunks) and Sam Kerr (the newest official partner of IWC favors the Pilot Chronograph 41) – are shoppable now. All of these styles are also backed by eBay’s Authenticity Guarantee, so fans always know that they are purchasing the real deal. Read on to find out some of the luxury watches and sneakers sported by the world’s top soccer stars, all available on eBay and backed by its Authenticity Guarantee service.

Alex Morgan

Alex Morgan is an American football icon who has played for the US Women’s National Team since 2009 and is currently the co-captain of the team. She has been an integral part of the team’s success, helping them to a World Cup victory in 2019. Morgan has been awarded numerous awards, including the Golden Boot for being the tournament’s leading scorer, and was named U.S. Soccer Female Athlete of the Year twice. She has also had a successful club career, playing for the Orlando Pride in the NWSL and Lyon in France’s Division 1 Féminine.

Away from the stadium lights, Morgan is an avid fan of fashion and sportswear, and she is an ideal ambassador for brands like Hublot and Nike. Her love of sportswear and classic watches is a perfect way to show how both brands are essential to athletes.

Alex Morgan

Morgan has been seen sporting a series of special edition Hublot watches, including the Classic Fusion Chronograph, the Big Bang Unico, and the Big Bang Referee. Her go-to watch, the Hublot Classic Fusion Blue – which she collaborated with the brand to create – captures the spirit of her hard work and success both on and off the field. This limited-edition watch features a classic steel case, a navy blue dial with a bezel set with diamonds, and Morgan’s signature on the back of the case. The watch has a 39mm case made from polished steel and is powered by a self-winding movement and has a 50-hour power reserve. Additionally, the watch is water-resistant up to 100 meters, making it an ideal companion for any active lifestyle.

Morgan is also known for her love of sneakers. She’s been spotted in the Nike Hypervenom Phantom III Elite and even the latest Mercurial Vapor XI. However, her most-worn pair is the Nike Dunk Low Retro White Black “Panda”, which serve as a perfect match for her Hublot Classic Fusion Blue. This classic design features a white leather upper with black leather overlays. The black swoosh logo contrasts against the white and adds a stylish look to the shoe. She loves the Panda Dunk so much her 2-year-old daughter even has a matching pair.

To get Alex Morgan’s signature look, fans can visit eBay and shop with confidence that the items they’re purchasing are the real deal with eBay’s Authenticity Guarantee.

Sam Kerr

Sam Kerr is an Australian football star who is widely regarded as one of the best forwards in women’s football history. She has been the captain of Australia’s national women’s team, the Matildas, since 2019 and holds records as the all-time leading scorer for both the Matildas and Australia’s W-League. Kerr is also the first and only Australian to win the National Women’s Soccer League Golden Boot and was awarded the Julie Dolan Medal as the W-League’s Player of the Year in 2017.

Off the pitch, Sam Kerr is an inspiring figure who is known for her fashion sense and style. She often wears her signature IWC Pilot Chronograph 41 and Nike Air Max 95s – both of which are a reflection of her energetic and determined personality.

Sam Kerr

Kerr has a particular affinity for IWC chronographs. This includes the sporty Pilot’s Watch, the stylish Portugieser, and the classic Portofino. Her go-to watch is the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Rose Gold Green Dial (Ref. IW388110). This watch features a 18k rose gold case, a green dial, and a matching green rubber strap closed by an 18k gold pin buckle. It features an in-house 69375 self-winding movement, column-wheel chronograph, and power reserve of 48 hours. IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 is a great choice for Kerr as it is both stylish and functional.

In addition to her watches, Kerr is also known for her love of sneakers. She is often spotted wearing Nike Air Max 95s, which are as popular today as when they debuted nearly 30 years ago. The shoe is made with a combination of mesh, leather, and suede, and features visible air cushioning on the heel and forefoot. Air Max 95s are having a huge moment, and Kerr’s Aussie jersey yellow pair is a perfect match for the Pilot Chronograph 41.

Kerr’s fans can get her look by shopping for the Pilot Chronograph 41, as well as the Air Max 95s, on eBay -all backed by eBay Authenticity Guarantee.

Lucy Bronze

Lucy Bronze is a world-renowned English football star who has achieved great success and fame in the world of sports. She is a respected member of the English national team and has been a consistent contender for the FIFA Player of the Year Award. One of her signature looks includes a two-tone Rolex Datejust and Nike Blazer 77 sneakers.

Lucy Bronze and her Rolex

The two-tone Rolex Datejust is a classic style and has been a popular choice since it was first released in 1945. The stainless steel is accented with yellow gold, creating a stunning two-tone finish that exudes sophistication and class. The 36mm dial is decorated with diamond markers and a date window. Not only does the watch turn heads, it is also extremely practical with a waterproof rating up to 100m.

Megan Rapinoe

Megan Rapinoe is well-known for her performances with the US Women’s National Soccer Team, where she helped the US team win back-to-back World Cup titles in 2015 and 2019 and was awarded the Golden Ball and Golden Boot at the 2019 tournament.

Alongside her glittering on-field achievements, Rapinoe is also known for her sartorial choices. She has been often spotted wearing an all-gold Rolex Day Date watch (a watch she gifted herself after winning the 2019 World Cup) and a pair of Travis Scott x Air Jordan 1 high-top sneakers.

Megan Rapinoe

The Rolex Day Date is one of the most iconic watches in the world. It is often referred to as the “President’s watch” because of its close association with world leaders. Rapinoe’s all-gold version is particularly stunning and the perfect accessory for an athlete of her caliber. The champagne dial has raised yellow gold Roman numeral hour markers and the iconic cyclops magnifying the date window. The Day Date 40 is powered by the reliable and precise 3255 self-winding movement from Rolex. Thanks to the yellow gold oyster bracelet with concealed folding crown clasp, the watch can be worn with maximum comfort and security.

In addition to her Rolex, Rapinoe’s other signature accessory is a pair of Nike Travis Scott x Air Jordan 1 sneakers. These shoes are a collaboration between Nike and rapper Travis Scott, and feature a unique, abstract reimagination of the classic Jordan 1 silhouette. The sneakers feature a bright red, white, and black colorway and a detailed Nike Swoosh logo with a mini Travis Scott logo on the tongue.

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The post FIFA Women’s World Cup – Football Stars and Their Watches appeared first on Revolution Watch.

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