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Louis Vuitton is ready to participate in the big league of high watchmaking

Oliver R Müller — Mon, 23 Oct 2023 01:00:04 +0000

Louis Vuitton is ready to participate in the big league of high watchmaking

The fashion maison has decided that watches are not just accessories anymore

Business

Oct 23, 2023

If there is just one single case study in luxury management that needs to be taught in any business school, then it would be LVMH. Not so much for the magic of revitalizing wearied brands, but more for consistently aligning powerful marketing decisions with financial engineering. And what the group can’t achieve from scratch, they’d just buy the necessary competencies. The watch business unit — which is, in fact, under one roof with the jewelry — is no exception to the rule.

Even though watches are by far not the main business unit within the LVMH empire, its importance is growing. As of today, LVMH’s main watch brands and the jewelry brands also propositioning watches account for ~6% of the group’s sales and ~4% of its EBIT. Comparatively, Louis Vuitton Horlogerie represents not even 1% of the brand’s sales*, which not only indicates significant latent potential, but also that taking any bold moves — such as repositioning the watch offering at a much higher price point — doesn’t put the brand at risk.

Modest origins in a new category of products

In 1995, LVMH bought Fred Joaillier; this is followed in 1999 by Chaumet, Ebel, TAG Heuer and Zenith. Bulgari’s watches — which account for ~12% of the brand’s total sales — are very successful, though not to the same extent as the jewelry, and are a good example of the group’s long-term vision. Nevertheless, the group hasn’t yet fully achieved what it needs to build up a leading position in the watch business.

As of 2022, the market share of the five brands selling watches accounted for a consolidated ~6.3% of the Swiss watch industry, placing it in fourth position behind Richemont with one-third of the competitor’s sales. In fact, the group even resold EBEL in 1999 after having tried to relaunch a mythical brand of the 1980s and ’90s. The acquisition of Hublot in 2004 then signaled that LVMH did want to muscle up, but the potential growth by acquisition is very limited due to the scarcity of major brands to be potentially acquired.

LVMH will certainly be amongst the first bidders when new opportunities arise for acquisitions, but for the time being it has chosen to build up the fundamentals to become an even more serious player in the watch industry.

The strategic repositioning of Louis Vuitton timepieces

One strong signal coming from the empire of luxury that shows it has ambition in the field of watches is the fact that two of CEO Bernard Arnault’s sons are working in the watch business unit: Frédéric Arnault at TAG Heuer (who is said to be leaving his CEO job there at the end of this year), and Jean Arnault, the youngest of the five siblings. Jean Arnault has already created a lot of goodwill for himself and the group in a watch industry which generally doesn’t appreciate too many new players entering the turf.

Jean Arnault

Very business savvy and genuinely passionate about watches, Jean has learned a lot in a very short timeframe. Rather than entering the playground with arrogance and disdain for the competitors, he has launched quite a few initiatives reflecting positively on the brand’s ambitions in watchmaking.

Creating the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize, for instance, is a very good way of becoming a de facto institution for new independent watchmakers and thus monitoring anything arising on the radar with the potential to become the “next big thing”. The whole concept of this prize is very clever, with the winner not only getting a title and a trophy, but also a mentorship, allowing him/her to learn all the trades that are needed, beyond the product, to become a successful brand.

LVMH Watch Prize

And what shows the cleverness of the young patron is the fact that the quite eclectic composition of the jury — comprising recognized watch experts and other personalities — also includes the director of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, which gives it institutional legitimacy.

The watchmaking know-how of Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton bought a small R&D and prototyping atelier in 2011 called La Fabrique du Temps. This was not LV’s first acquisition in the field of watchmaking, but it was certainly a significant one laying the groundstone for the brand’s ambitions in hard luxury. Since then, the small workshop became almost a fully integrated manufacture dedicated to Louis Vuitton and sister brands in need of production capacities for métiers d’art artisanship. La Fabrique du Temps is now capable of manufacturing high-grade enamel or hand-engraved dials, having hired the best artisans to establish the know-how in-house rather than buying finished components.

La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton

It will also integrate the guilloché technique in due course to propose new dial versions and use this hand-turned technique for other components as well.

The manufacture produces fully in-house conceived mechanical calibers and will eventually — in the not-too-distant future — even master the escapement including the hairspring, which is, for the time being, sourced from Atokalpa. The manufacture also produces cases with the ambition to master the whole value chain to produce high-end watches fully in-house.

From a small team of just a dozen people back in 2011, La Fabrique du Temps now employs almost 200 staff — and is still hiring. On top of that, based on its commitment to be part of the watch industry’s eco-system, the company is offering apprenticeships to help absorb the scarcity of qualified people in the Swiss watch industry. This is not only a sustainable and long-term strategy to ensure the planned growth, but also a way to silence the critics saying that Louis Vuitton is behaving in an opportunistic manner to recruit talents from other manufactures.

Enter the new Louis Vuitton Tambour

In 2002 Louis Vuitton launched its first watch collection Tambour with a very daring design referencing the first portable watches of the 16^th century. The name also refers to the shape of a drum, tambour in French. The collection was very coherently combining LV’s DNA with bold colors and a mix of mechanical and quartz-powered watches. Using both standard ETA movements and then enhancing the collection with in-house movements such as the Spin Time, the watches were quite successful given the fact that they were sold exclusively through brand-owned boutiques which number 460 doors worldwide.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Gold

Apart from the Emprise collection designed by Marc Jacobs and launched in 2008, the brand has kept a coherent design language. Thereafter, the Tambour collection has become if not iconic then at least a very recognizable reference in the watch world..

Ascending the upper league

It is understandable that Louis Vuitton has carefully studied the successful strategy applied by La Montres Hermès in recent years. Hermès has been in the watch business a lot longer than Louis Vuitton, having started selling watches in 1928, but at the time it was considered an accessory rather than a product category per se. About a decade ago, Hermès was still selling watches below the €1,000 price point with quartz movements and producing way too many pieces that could be found also on the gray market, which is very detrimental to its brand equity.

Change came with the acquisition of a 25% stake in the Vaucher Manufacture in 2006 and the launch of a new collection of mechanical timepieces. The first attempt to climb the price ladder was — to put it mildly — not very successful. But then product director Philippe Delhotal totally revamped the product lineup through a more coherent strategy that includes developing the métiers d’art dials and incorporating design details coming from the brand’s DNA.

Hermès has since then very successfully changed gears for its watches by eliminating most of its quartz watches, keeping only a few references in its Cape Cod and Arceau product families. The consolidation of the collection has been done very extensively by ousting all entry-level watches that were not in line with the brand’s overall core positioning — a key decision for any luxury brand that wants to move up the luxury ladder. Reducing the number of SKU’s and product families and focusing on high-end watchmaking brought tremendous success to the brand, with sales being tripled in the last five years. The key success factor? A realignment of watches with all other product categories.

The transformation of Louis Vuitton

Why would anyone want to reinvent the wheel at LV? Probably intrigued by the competitor’s major success, Louis Vuitton managed by a watch aficionado — Jean Arnault — has decided to go the same route by taking an academic approach, applying this strategy of aligning the product category with the core price positioning of the brand. The new Tambour that was unveiled in July this year is jumping on the trend of sports chic watches with an integrated stainless-steel bracelet. For the time being, it is offered only in two dial variations at quite a hefty price — although this is understandable due to its intrinsic horological value — of €19,500.

Louis Vuitton Tambour

For the product review itself please read this story by Revolution founder Wei Koh.

I partially agree with Revolution founder Wei Koh’s enthusiastic review of this new watch, because of the great finishing and architecture of the movement, and the strong product identity. However, I’m left wanting more. La Fabrique du Temps is a manufacture with talented watchmakers and an enormous amount of expertise accumulated by the two master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, and yet LV decided to go to Le Cercle des Horlogers, owned by Speake-Marin, to develop a new movement? I know I’m setting the bar high, but it’s justified when the brand’s ambition is to become a serious player in a league where there is Audemars Piguet boasting an R&D heavyweight such as APRP (ex-Renaud & Papi and also serving the needs for Richard Mille in which AP holds 10% equity) or Vacheron Constantin with the extraordinary grand complications made by its “Les Cabinotiers” ateliers.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Gold

When I met Jean Arnault in Paris before the presentation to the LV staff, he was very humble by saying that he was hoping that the clients would adhere to this substantial price repositioning compared with the previous product offering. My only question is about the market’s sustainability of continued demand for substitution products compensating for the scarce offering of the grail watches of sports chic, such as the Nautilus and the Royal Oak.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Gold

We have seen the prices on the secondary market come down substantially since March 2022, indicating that the demand is now reflecting the “real” watch buyers and not only the “flippers”. The demand, for instance, for the Girard-Perregaux Laureato has decreased significantly in recent months and will probably continue to do so.

Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini

But the strong points that could help the new Tambour become a huge success are its very distinctive design, and the beautifully designed and decorated caliber, which is a certified chronometer by the Observatoire Chronométrique de Genève (Timelab). Again, here I would have expected the brand to be more ambitious by applying for the Observatoire Chronométrique OC+ certification, which not only includes precision testing of the watch head (rather than the movement before casing), but also resistance to magnetism, waterproofness and power reserve, in conditions representative of modern life.

And, in an ideal world, to top it all off with the Poinçon de Genève hallmark, which is the knighthood for any high-end movement, and for which today very few brands apply. The technicality here is that, as mentioned above, the movement is not being manufactured at La Fabrique du Temps in the canton of Geneva and can’t be therefore certified with the Poinçon de Genève.

A bold and coherent move to tick all the boxes

Louis Vuitton is following the successful path initiated by La Montre Hermès, but with a slightly different approach — at least for the time being — by capitalizing on the high-end, massively phasing out existing SKU’s (80%), and most importantly, not using anymore third-party movements. The brand has all the credibility to play in the champion’s league of high-end watchmaking, having launched such extraordinary timepieces as the Tambour Opera Automata, which is a feast of micromechanics and artisanship by using engraving and enameling techniques.

Tambour Opera Automata

Collaborations have become very popular between luxury brands, and the watch industry is no exception to this. Collabs are especially interesting when brands with polarized DNA’s associate on a specific project in which each one imparts its own values. One of the best recent examples of such collabs is the MoonSwatch, where Omega and Swatch partnered on a watch paying tribute to a watch icon — the Speedmaster Professional — associating it with specific characteristics of the partnering brands.

Independents to foster the horological content

For its first collaboration — because Louis Vuitton will undoubtedly revisit the exercise — Akrivia is certainly the best choice, because the man behind the brand, Rexhep Rexhepi, is considered to be the leader of a new generation of independent watchmakers. The spectacular Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie is quite a statement in every aspect.

Rexhep Rexhepi

One, for the first time Louis Vuitton is merging its iconic logo with the one from Akrivia. Two, the movement was developed by Akrivia and the dial was enameled at La Fabrique du Temps. Three, Rexhepi deserves a lot of credit for having developed a very sophisticated mechanism with two barrels — one dedicated to the timekeeping functions and the chronograph, the other one for the chiming function. Four, the movement includes a five-minute tourbillon.

Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique

All said, I’m not a huge fan of the dichotomous design with one side using the Louis Vuitton codes and on the other side the Akrivia design codes. The case seems also a little bit bulky in trying to keep it below the 40mm mark, which is a deal-breaker for some watch collectors. I think it would have made the watch a lot more elegant with an additional 1–2mm in diameter to cope with the thickness of the movement.

Lastly even though there is a competing watch which came out recently — the Omega Chrono Chime which set the bar very high in terms of movement architecture, finishing and beauty of the dial (the Speedmaster version) — the first Louis Vuitton collaboration is most probably already sold out. Proceeds of the sales will fund the LV Watch Prize, which is one more argument for the watch on top of being ultra-rare with only 10 pieces being produced.

Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie

Please read here for the full review of the Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie.

LVMH’s choice to use its flagship brand to venture into high-end watchmaking is clever because it’s not putting the brand at risk, yet it enables the group to build up a real legitimacy in the horological field, even though Bulgari can already boast a legitimacy acquired over the last three decades. The core strategy of Louis Vuitton is not only targeting the product or industrial competencies, but building up a 360-degree project with know-how, manufacturing capacities and a long-term vision — just as the group has done before in soft luxury.

This is a very clever way of associating Louis Vuitton with genuine craftsmanship content made in collaboration with an artisan watchmaker. Such drops will help to foster the value perception by the collectors who might be questioning the legitimacy of a brand lacking the horological heritage of competing brands.

Louis Vuitton is the base of LVMH’s push into the watch industry

Even if in terms of sales, LV’s watch business is marginal for the brand’s revenues — an estimated 0.75% — the repositioning into the haute horlogerie market segment is significant because it will allow LVMH to push its other brands, foremost TAG Heuer and Zenith. It also lays the ground for the relaunch of Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth — two brands that had been absorbed by Bulgari, which were subsequently acquired by LVMH in 2011.

*LVMH does not publish figures at brand level and all figures indicated in this article are based on estimates by Morgan Stanley’s research.

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Oct 10, 2023

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Movement	Self-winding caliber FBN 229.01 with natural escapement; 72-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes and small seconds
Case	40mm; stainless steel; water resistant to 30m
Dial	Verdant green, with sector track; applied, white rhodium treated gold Arabic numerals and hour markers
Strap	Brown calf leather with Alcantara lining, stainless steel pin buckle; additional Milanese bracelet in stainless steel
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The post Louis Vuitton is ready to participate in the big league of high watchmaking appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Under the Lens: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar “Salmon”

Lee Sheng — Mon, 11 Sep 2023 08:00:01 +0000

Under the Lens: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar “Salmon”

A lively spin on a serious timepiece.

Reviews

By Lee Sheng

Sep 11, 2023

Celebrated for its intricate chronograph execution, German watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne has recently unveiled one of its more high-end chronographs, the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar. It not only packs a chronograph but also integrates a split-seconds function and a perpetual calendar. And it is also given an unconventional “salmon” dial, a departure from the brand’s usual muted aesthetic.

While the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar was originally launched a decade ago, it has only seen a few iterations, which aligns with Lange’s typical restrained design philosophy. These iterations are mostly minimalist, such as pink gold or platinum versions with silver dials. An exception is the ultra-luxurious Handwerkskunst edition, which sports a dark blue champlévé enamel dial adorned with stars engraved in relief.

Considering the limited yet distinctly varied dial options at hand, the addition of the “salmon” dial to the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is noteworthy, even though it’s an update on style rather than mechanics. The “salmon” dial, or more precisely, the “pink gold” dial – the dial is made from pink gold to give it a natural rosy hue – bridges the gap between the plain silver and the elaborate enamel versions, offering something that’s appealing yet modest.

With a split-second chronograph, a perpetual calendar, and a “salmon” dial, the latest offering appears to be one of Lange’s most appealing chronographs. Yet, does it truly live up to this impression?

A classy yet lively blend of rose and blue

Solid gold salmon

Lange’s chronographs are typically known for their twin-counter layout. However, the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar breaks this norm with double the number of counters, immediately indicating it’s something unusual. Indeed, the only other Lange watches featuring a similar layout are the 1815 Tourbograph Perpetual “Pour le Mérite” and the 1815 Grand Complication, which stand as some of the brand’s most complicated creations – the latter holding the title of the most complex. This shared quadruple-counter arrangement adds elevated sophistication to today’s subject. As a result, the dial becomes a natural focal point of the watch.

Upon closer examination of the dial arrangement, a distinct sense of practicality becomes evident. Three of the four sub-dials feature dual hands, effectively displaying two sets of information. The co-axial hand setup on these sub-dials reduces the need for extra counters, resulting in a tidy layout within four symmetrical spaces. This stands in contrast to intricate watches with scattered indicators, arriving at a more serious aesthetic. In addition, the Lange 1815’s the two chronograph seconds hands stand out distinctly in contrasting blue and silver colours.

Two colors for two chronograph seconds

For those who appreciate Lange’s engineering but desire a livelier touch, the “salmon” dial version of the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar is a great choice. The pinkish hue immediately brings the dial to life, setting it apart from the usual silver versions.

Notably, both the main dial and sub-dial have blue markers at the quarters. These blue markers, along with the blue hands, complement the salmon color beautifully, creating a contrasting and vibrant combination. The addition of blue on the dial underscores Lange’s keen attention to detail, as it represents a deliberate change from earlier versions that featured red markers. Red markers could have made the dial look overly warm and affected, whereas the choice of blue adds a refreshing coolness to the rosy dial.

A romantic moonphase with starry background

A moderately sized case

In terms of aesthetics, let’s briefly consider the case size before exploring the main highlight – the movement. Lange’s intricate timepieces frequently face scrutiny due to their wide and thick dimensions. This time, however, the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar succeeds in maintaining a reasonably moderate size.

At 41.9 mm in width, it is substantial yet not excessively large, both within Lange’s lineup and in a broader context. Numerous contemporary automatic chronographs share a similar size or even larger dimensions. Consider the Breitling Navitimer, Omega Speedmaster, and Tudor Black Bay Chronograph, for instance.

Similarly, the thickness is quite moderate for a Lange, measuring 14.7 mm. In comparison, the Double Split, which boasts an additional split minute hand but lacks the perpetual calendar, is even thicker at 15.3 mm (more on the reasons later).

Notably, the case design cleverly incorporates intricate details to downplay its height. The construction involves multiple layers, prominently featuring a thick bezel and back, which results in a relatively slender mid-case or case flank. The domed back nestles into the wrist, leaving only the bezel and flank visible at a glance. The flank, which significantly contributes to the perceived case height, is horizontally brushed to create a noticeable contrast with the polished bezel. This contrast effectively directs attention to the sleek profile of the flank, further emphasised by the horizontal graining. In comparison to earlier versions of the same model that boasted a fully polished case, the current design indeed appears thinner and more refined.

Does the movement truly meet Lange’s quality standards?

Let’s flip the watch over and examine its most significant highlight: the L101.1 movement. To maintain brevity, we’ll skip the discussion of the perpetual calendar, which is less interesting when compared to the split-seconds chronograph due to its module concealed beneath the dial. Instead, our focus will be on examining the execution of the chronograph components.

For those eagerly seeking a conclusion, yes, the L101.1 is indeed a commendable chronograph movement executed at an extremely high level. It’s evident that thought has been invested in the movement’s design, resulting in an exquisite and intricate look. This is attributed not only to the design of the chronograph levers, which has an old-school and elaborate essence, but also to the attention to decoration.

In terms of the chronograph’s construction, the movement exhibits multiple layers of complexity. This gives the movement an uncommon depth of visual, a characteristic not often encountered even in high-end chronographs from renowned brands. Here is where Lange distinguishes itself.

Lange also shines when it comes to decoration, ranking among the top brands in this regard. This becomes evident through three elements. For instance, all chronograph levels are fashioned from steel and possess a brushed upper surface, flanked by polished bevels. This brushed finish gives the watch an elegant and understated demeanour that comes alive with a subtle gleam at the bevel’s edge. The same level of detail extends to the movement plate, adorned with Glashütte stripes (akin to Geneva stripes), complemented by delicate polished bevels that enhance its shape gracefully.

Additionally, a standout facet of Lange’s movement finishing is the hand-engraved balance cock. While manual craftsmanship doesn’t automatically guarantee superior quality, the L101.1 demonstrates intricate floral engravings. This adds a touch of romanticism to the robust movement, which inherently radiates the solemn precision of German engineering.

Lastly, the choice of colours enriches the movement’s palette. For instance, the use of blued screws and gold chatons injects bursts of colour into the assembly of components. Incorporating German silver for the movement bridges also imparts an added warmth to the movement’s aesthetic.

However, in the spirit of thorough analysis, it’s worth noting that while the watch’s execution attains an incredibly high standard, there are a few elements we would like to discuss further. The exploration of the reasons behind this evaluation will be approached from three perspectives: function, execution, and architecture.

The L101.1

Let’s start with the functions. The split-seconds chronograph of the 1815 is a little different from other Lange chronograph models. First, the flyback function has been omitted, preventing it from being restarted before stopping. Second, there’s an absence of a jumping or instantaneous minute counter. Both these features had been present in the more intricate Double Split model as well as the Datograph.

Regarding its execution, the construction of the split-second mechanism has been slightly simplified. In traditional split-second chronographs, you would typically find an isolator – a system designed to prevent the reset lever attached to the split-seconds wheel from “dragging” over the heart cam of the regular chronograph seconds wheel. This safeguard is crucial for preserving the accuracy of elapsed time measurement and the overall watch performance. Not featured in this watch, this system is usually identified by an additional wheel positioned atop the split-second wheel at the very heart of the movement.

To compensate for the absence of an isolator, Lange uses a ruby roller to prevent dragging. Unlike an isolator positioned above the split-seconds wheel, the ruby roller is placed beneath it, reducing overall height. The ruby roller is tucked at the tip of the split-seconds reset lever, which is in contact with a heart cam. The ruby roller thus reduces friction when the split-seconds chronograph is in operation, thereby reducing drag. More on how the lever and cam work together for the split-second reset will be explained later.

Furthermore, Lange went with a more practical solution in establishing the setup of resetting the split-second wheel. Before discussing the mechanism, it’s important to note that the reset refers to aligning the split-seconds hand with the current position of the chronograph’s seconds hand, essentially catching up.

The resetting or catching up of the split-seconds hand is facilitated by the reset lever, which will snap back to the lowest point of the heart cam attached to the chronograph tube arbour and align the split-seconds wheel with the regular chronograph seconds. Importantly, the lever requires force to work, traditionally provided by a tension spring in the form of a curved blade spring.

A curved spring is an elongated piece of metal with a certain thickness to provide it with strength, and it is the traditional manner in which to make a spring. In place of a curved spring, the 1815 uses a coil spring, which is simpler to manufacture and performs its task perfectly, but arguably diminishes in aesthetics. Point to note, for a watch to bear the Geneva Seal (which is not a concern for this German watch), it cannot have a coil spring.

Notice the coil spring just under the split-seconds wheel

Shifting focus to the movement’s architecture, it’s important to note that the movement retains an appearance of exceptional intricacy and refinement. However, were one to look closely at the Datograph or Double Split, one could notice that the construction of the chronograph levers differs across these three watches, where the lever in the 1815 adopt a flatter and wider profile.

From left to right: the Datograph, 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar, and the Double Split

One plausible explanation for the aforementioned observations could be the pursuit of reduced height. The use of flatter levers indeed contributes to this goal, and the omission of an isolator wheel may also aid in reducing overall thickness. It allows the watch to be even thinner than the Double Split, which does not include a perpetual calendar. In short, the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual is a remarkably thin high-complication watch from Lange.

It’s important to remember that Lange is no longer relatively “underpriced” (being more reasonably priced than competitors while offering superior execution). The latest 1815 comes with a price tag of USD 319,000, a significant increase from its previous cost of around USD 240,000 just a few years ago.

The classic balance cock engraved with a floral pattern

Concluding thoughts

The 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar emerges as one of Lange’s more visually intricate chronographs, characterised by a serious aesthetic featuring four symmetrical counters. And the new version with a “salmon” dial adds a nice change to how the watch looks. The cheerful rosy colour, along with light blue details, gives the watch a new lively feel, making it interesting even though it is mainly a color update in this 2023 novelty.

While the watch could have pushed further with key features like a classical isolator, it does bring about new benefits to the watch collector, specifically, its slimness. Lange has already offered many technically impeccable watches, but few have offered such a fair balance of slimness and complexity as this timepiece does.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar
Ref. 421.056FE Specs and Price

Movement: L101.1; manual; 42 hours power reserve

Functions: Hour, minutes, seconds, split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar

Case: 41.9 mm x 14.7 mm; 18k white gold; water resistant to 30 m

Strap: Alligator leather strap with folding buckle

Availability: At boutiques and select retailers

Limited edition: 100 pieces

Price: USD 319,000

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TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber BR.CAL-301; 42-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	41mm; CuAI7Si2 bronze; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices
Strap	Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post Under the Lens: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar “Salmon” appeared first on Revolution Watch.

TAG Heuer is muscling up with two of its strongest watch icons, Carrera and Monaco

Oliver R Müller — Thu, 24 Aug 2023 11:38:21 +0000

TAG Heuer is muscling up with two of its strongest watch icons, Carrera and Monaco

With strategic changes in the offing, the avant-garde watch company must seize every opportunity.

Business

By Oliver R Müller

Aug 24, 2023

Rumor is that changes will take place at the helm of TAG Heuer with CEO Frédéric Arnault moving to another role within the LVMH Group and Julien Tornare — currently the CEO of sister brand Zenith — replacing him in due course. Which makes this a good opportunity to analyze a brand which has repositioned itself in recent years vis-à-vis its main rivals such as Tudor, Breitling and Omega. Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult estimated that the brand lost half of its luxury watch market share from 2017 to 2022 from 4% to 2%. In comparison, during this same time, Breitling tripled its own market share from 1% to 3% by increasing its sales by a factor of 2.7x and capturing margin by integrating their own retail.

Nevertheless, the brand has recently regained momentum by getting back on its home turf and reinterpreting its two main icons, the Monaco and the Carrera. And it has done a stringent work of cleaning its collections by eliminating some existing SKUs and being careful when launching new collections.

TAG Heuer: a brand with two faces

TAG Heuer has an incredible brand DNA which is bicephalous with Heuer for the tradition and TAG for the innovation. But at the same time this represents a daunting task to balance the product offering from icons to disruptive timepieces. Heuer also has a strong legacy of sportscar chronometry and has established strong historical bonds thanks to Jack Heuer — a marketing genius ahead of his time — in the 1970’s. Signing Steve McQueen and placing the “Monaco” Heuer watch on the film set of “Le Mans” was probably the foundation for this watch to become an icon. Launched just the year before in 1969, the Monaco was the first square cased automatic wristwatch chronograph ever made. A groundbreaking design with a circle inside the square, the Monaco contained all the ingredients to become a design icon.

TAG Heuer Monaco from 1971, worn by actor Steve McQueen in the movie Le Mans

The extraordinary asset of having a product icon is the potential of rejuvenating it with new colors, lay-outs and functions as TAG Heuer has done with the launch of new models linked to the movie “Gran Turismo”. With its vintage looks and very unique case design, the Monaco is just the perfect timepiece to link up with the Gen Z in search of referential timepieces, both vintage and new.

The new TAG Heuer Monaco Racing Blue

The Carrera is the other iconic watch

TAG Heuer might not have as many iconic watches as some of the other leading brands, but nevertheless it has another classic icon with the Carrera, born in 1963… just like the Rolex Daytona and both watches once shared the same base caliber, the Valjoux 72. The Carrera was in fact the continuation of the brand’s chronograph heritage of the 1940 and 1950’s. And the watch is also related to car racing, just as the sister product Monaco, and the Rolex Daytona… and the Omega Speedmaster which had been launched earlier in 1957 with a tachymetric bezel to measure the speed of a car.

The design of the Heuer Carrera has evolved over more than 60 years

But the brand must stay coherent in its strategy of establishing hero products. One thing which TAG Heuer must handle with more discipline is sticking to certain basic rules. One product family equals one product territory but that’s a rule the recent launch of the Carrera Skipper doesn’t fully comply with. A remake of a 1968 model, the Heuer Carrera Skipper ref. 7754 which was affectionately named Skipperera, it stands out in a family of strong auto-inspired timepieces.

TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper

A long story with the racing car world

Heuer’s links with the racing cars go way back, and was followed by a collaboration with the Ferrari team. Their drivers — Niki Lauda and Clay Regazzoni — became brand ambassadors. The timepiece marking Heuer’s entrance to the world of car racing was the Carrera Automatic in 18k gold which is today one of the most sought-after collectors’ pieces. At the same time the team managing the time keeping at the races developed a new device called the Centigraph which was a very innovative electronic timing system.

Yet, the diversification of Heuer into electronical timing systems was an unfortunate mishap as Jack Heuer recalls in his autobiography The Time of My Life. The quartz crisis of the late 1970’s till the beginning of the 1980’s forced Heuer to pull-out from the sports chronometry business which they sold for a bargain price to… Longines. All these paved the way to the common thread of collaborations which relate to sports cars with for instance Porsche.

Choosing Porsche as a partner is a very smart move, because more than just selling cars, the German brand is the epitome of a company managing to create the magical bond between the brand and its clients. The German carmaker is in my humble opinion also the epitome of manufacturing precision or I should say perfection. The potential of this collaboration has yet to be fully exploited as the special editions linked to Porsche still have much room to grow.

TAG Heuer and Porsche: a partnership made in brand building heaven

The interesting comparison between Porsche and TAG Heuer is also the fact that the German carmaker manufactures the most iconic sports car overall, the 911 (sorry for all the Ferraristi reading this, although I must confess that I’m also a huge fan of Ferrari). The 911 is the best example of an ever-evolving base design where nothing changes, but everything evolves and each new version is more accomplished than the one it replaces. And here’s another lesson to be taken from Porsche — for all watch brands and not only TAG Heuer — don’t be afraid to go your own path of innovation.

The die-hard fans of the brand almost quit their love when for instance the brand moved away from air cooled engines for the 911 or launched the four-wheel drive. However, the brand is stronger than ever today and is announcing its major shift to EV by 2030 (80% of its product offering). Which brings us to the smartwatches made by TAG Heuer…

Why smartwatches at TAG Heuer?

I made that lengthy comparison with Porsche because any watch brand today with a similar market positioning as TAG Heuer should investigate, or at least should have investigated around 2010-12 if smartwatches could be a new product category to conquer. The likeliness of smartwatches to stay for the long term is very questionable due to their limited lifetime and hence lack of sustainability. But one thing for sure is that in 2022, 15.8 million traditional Swiss made watches were exported, while more than 90 million smartwatches have been sold during the same period. Of that number, Apple sold more than 40 million.

At TAG Heuer, the former CEO and head of the watch division, industry legend Mr. Jean-Claude Biver, decided that the brand should venture into this new market to avoid missing out on a new Eldorado. Biver decided to partner with two major players from Silicon Valley, Intel and Google, to make sure that the technology would be provided by market leaders and always up to date, as it is common knowledge that technology product life cycles are short in the world of high tech.

The strategy was on combining high value materials with hybrid technology, meaning that they would look like conventional watches with analog time displays with hands, thus justifying the substantial price premium compared with their Asian and American competitors. The first series was quickly sold out due to the cleverness of Biver’s launch campaign during BaselWorld.

But then the wave of success soon stopped, as the potential market for people using smartwatches targets a price level which is closer to something below CHF 500 retail, which is a segment that harmed massively the entry level brands of Swiss watchmaking such as Swatch and Tissot. Even though TAG Heuer is regarded as an avant-garde brand, such a product category is very opex (operating expenses such as salaries or licenses) intense, with huge teams of IT specialists updating permanently the system and looking out for the next bug or breach.

And even though TAG Heuer chose to outsource most of the technology — unlike the very strange choice of Swatch Group to maintain its own OS for Tissot’s smartwatch — the smartwatch venture in general has a marginal impact on the topline (sales), but a major negative impact on the bottom line (the operating margin or EBIT).

Frédéric Arnault has been involved in TAG Heuer product development and marketing since 2017

Refocusing on the brand’s natural territory

The product offering has been refocused on the brand’s “natural ground” or territory by eliminating very expensive ventures into the world of high-end watchmaking. The V4 or the Mikrograph have been certainly extraordinary communication vectors, but also major cost centers with investments going into the eight figures with no tangible positive long-term outcome.

The Carrera Chronograph Tourbillion has been repositioned on a more sustainable price level — thus becoming profitable — unlike when it was first launched, where it was assumed that once you have written off the R&D for the first series, the cost of goods sold is only the manufacturing cost.

A new CEO for new impulses

Meanwhile, Julien Tornare — current CEO of sister brand Zenith — is set to take over the helm of TAG Heuer and based on his track record, we can probably expect a hand-over with minor changes. His 6 years as CEO of Zenith have allowed the brand to stabilize and strengthen its product offering. His predecessors had all tried to kick start the brand, meant to bear a tremendous, unexploited potential, although Zenith has yet to establish itself as a brand that a vast majority of watch aficionados dream of.

The question for Tornare, thus, will be to decide if smartwatches deserve to remain in the collection and if so, how should he navigate the challenges of this ever-changing segment.

What we will probably see at TAG Heuer is an accelerated transition back to the icons such as Carrera and Monaco which are the brand’s “bread and butter” business. To regain lost ground from its main competitors, it will need to show consistency around a clear product offering. The recent product initiatives were very well received and are showing a clear path back to growth. And even in areas where TAG Heuer can’t compete in terms of horological legacy, it still has potential to revive its strong roots in sports chronometry, especially in the field of racing cars.

Julian Tornare is set to take over the helm at TAG Heuer this fall

On the journey to success

Are the recent changes in the product strategy sufficient for the brand to regain the momentum it had definitely lost in recent years? The recent product launches suggest that owners of the brand and its management have understood that stability is a key value to survive in a very competitive market with strong competitors. Pushing icons like Monaco and Carrera, clarifying the product offering and connecting with Gen Z through more contemporary messages are certainly some of the ingredients needed. Re-evaluating its strategy for smartwatches will probably be the next important step to regain the positive momentum the brand had until mid 2010.

And being owned by the luxury industry’s no. 1 – LVMH – which is starting to flex its muscles in the field of watchmaking will certainly help to restart a virtuous circle. As a whole, the group did lose some ground in terms of consolidated watch market share (LVMH watch division plus Bulgari watch division) of 7,9% in 2017 to 6,3% in 2022. But the chairman of LVMH Mr. Bernard Arnault is always known to play on the podium rather than stay in fourth place — just ahead of mono-brand company Patek Philippe with 5% market share. So all things considered, TAG Heuer is definitely an exciting brand to watch in the years ahead.

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FEATURED FROM THE SHOP

Laurent Ferrier

Laurent Ferrier × Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor “Amazonia”

$57,500.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber FBN 229.01 with natural escapement; 72-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes and small seconds
Case	40mm; stainless steel; water resistant to 30m
Dial	Verdant green, with sector track; applied, white rhodium treated gold Arabic numerals and hour markers
Strap	Brown calf leather with Alcantara lining, stainless steel pin buckle; additional Milanese bracelet in stainless steel
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 15 pieces

The post TAG Heuer is muscling up with two of its strongest watch icons, Carrera and Monaco appeared first on Revolution Watch.

This Akrivia AK-06 is now up for bids on HDH Auctions

Celine Yap — Thu, 24 Aug 2023 01:00:00 +0000

This Akrivia AK-06 is now up for bids on HDH Auctions

The small but stellar catalog is fully shoppable from the comfort of your own phone.

News

Aug 24, 2023

We’ve still a ways to go until auction season comes around but thanks to Hart Davis Hart, you don’t have to wait till November to start bidding for a new watch. The specialist wine auctioneer has entered the luxury watch space just this month, and already its first timepiece auction is slated to take place this week on 25^thAugust at 9am EDT (3pm CET or 9pm Singapore Standard Time). Among some of the top lots to go under the hammer is the first Akrivia timepiece to ever surface at auction.

Akrivia AK-06 est USD200,000 – 300,000

The First Akrivia On Auction

As all watch enthusiasts know, Akrivia is the brainchild of watchmaking wunderkind Rexhep Rexhepi and the brand is extremely sought after by collectors all over the world. Notoriously elusive, scoring an Akrivia timepiece at retail is a challenge and finding one on the pre-owned market is an even loftier quest — until now. The upcoming Hart Davis Hart auction will put an Akrivia AK-06 up for bidding.

AK-06 is Akrivia's first non-tourbillon model

Akrivia’s AK-06 is of course the brand’s first non-tourbillon timepiece, focusing purely on time-telling yet also offering a stellar 100-hour power reserve. Its open-worked dial showcases all the components supporting the power reserve and the pair of steel hands are manually blued over a bed of heated brass filings in a slow process deliberately designed to produce an even hue all throughout the component.

The open worked dial is a consistent part of Akrivia's DNA

With an estimate of USD 200,000 to USD 300,000, this stainless steel timepiece consigned by the original owner has garnered considerable interest from eager buyers. It joins 29 other beautiful timepieces in the Hart Davis Hart upcoming watch auction.

A Small But Formidable Catalog

Indeed, with just 30 lots up for bids, Hart Davis Hart’s watch auction catalog is a pretty modest one. But it certainly delivers the goods where it matters most — every timepiece is certain to catch the watch enthusiast’s eye. For starters, the selection greatly favors independent watchmakers. In addition to Akrivia, expect to see timepieces by Czapek Geneve, Gronefeld, Sarpaneva, FP Journe, URWERK and H Moser.

Czapek Antarctique Chronograph Rattrapante est USD 40,000 – 60,000

Gronefeld Remontoire 1941 Constant Force est USD 60,000 – 90,000

Sarpaneva x Moomin est USD 11,000 – 17,000

FP Journe Octa Divine 36 est USD 70,000 – 100,000

URWERK UR-100V Iron est USD 45,000 – 65,000

The selection also raises the stakes when it comes to all-time auction favorites such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Omega, A. Lange & Sohne and Audemars Piguet. Star lots among this hallowed circle of brands include a Patek Philippe Tiffany-dial Aquanaut, a Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5800, a Vacheron Constantin Historiques Triple Calendrier 1942, a Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126720VTNR Destro, an Omega Speedmaster CK2998, an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 6009 BA, and an A. Lange & Sohne Langematik Perpetual in platinum.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5800 est USD 70,000 – 100,000

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5167A/A-001 est USD 85,000 – 130,000

Omega Speedmaster CK2998 est USD 5,500 – 8,500

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 6009 BA est USD 10,000 – 15,000

When And How To Bid

Other coveted lots include a C by Romain Gauthier Titanium Edition One, a Maximilian Büsser M.A.D 1 Friends Edition, and several Daniel Roth watches such as the Premier Retrograde Ref. 807.L.10. With such a wide range of collectors’ dream watches, this is truly an auction of finest and rarest watches, and it could only have been curated by a team of passionate watch collectors.

C by Romain Gauthier Titanium Edition One est USD 40,000 – 60,000

C by Romain Gauthier Titanium Edition One with a beautifully finished hand-wound movement

Says president of Hart Davis Hart, Ben Nelson, “As a group we have a strong interest in independent watchmaking, which we like to celebrate. [For our first watch auction] We have tried to put forward pieces that are interesting to all levels of collectors and watch lovers.”

The Hart Davis Hart watch auction has already flagged off on 3rd August 2023. You can download the mobile app here or visit the website here to browse lots and place bids. The company accepts absentee bids on watches as well, and hammering will begin on 25th August 2023 at 9am EDT (3pm CET or 9pm Singapore Standard Time) via a ‘live’ bidding method available on both platforms.

Contact watches@hdhauctions.com with any questions about buying or selling watches in this inaugural watch auction.

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FROM THE SHOP

Laurent Ferrier

Laurent Ferrier × Revolution Classic Micro-Rotor “Amazonia”

$57,500.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber FBN 229.01 with natural escapement; 72-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes and small seconds
Case	40mm; stainless steel; water resistant to 30m
Dial	Verdant green, with sector track; applied, white rhodium treated gold Arabic numerals and hour markers
Strap	Brown calf leather with Alcantara lining, stainless steel pin buckle; additional Milanese bracelet in stainless steel
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 15 pieces

The post This Akrivia AK-06 is now up for bids on HDH Auctions appeared first on Revolution Watch.

The Tissot PRX 35mm Powermatic 80, now in Ice Blue and Radiant Gold

Rob Nudds — Fri, 18 Aug 2023 01:00:08 +0000

The Tissot PRX 35mm Powermatic 80, now in Ice Blue and Radiant Gold

Tissot has brought the Ice Blue dial and PVD-coated Radiant Gold PRX Powermatic 80 models to life in 35mm, with both having previously only been available in 40mm. In doing so, the brand has wisely acknowledged the widespread adoration of the smaller size.

Reviews

By Rob Nudds

Aug 18, 2023

What we have here is what many of us really wanted. The Tissot PRX 35mm Powermatic 80 has always been the star of the show, oozing retro cool that the 40mm, despite its best intentions, struggles to match. Obviously, however, Tissot feels (and the market reflects) that both diameters are popular enough to coexist. But in light of the rabid reception to these two core additions, can anyone really argue where the magic lies?

Tissot PRX 35mm Powermatic 80 Ice Blue and Radiant Gold

Explaining the new Tissot PRX 35mm Powermatic 80 models

Sometimes, some things just fit. Nobody remembers Joe Montana in a Chiefs jersey; it’s the 49ers all the way. As talented as the late River Phoenix may have been, anyone but Harrison Ford in the iconic role of Indiana Jones is just wrong. And as many catchy tunes as they produced over the years, whenever anyone thinks of Paul McCartney, they think of the Beatles rather than Wings.

Tissot PRX 35mm Powermatic 80 Ice Blue and Radiant Gold

Of course, some people will disagree. Anyone in Missouri might have fond memories of Joe Cool suiting up for the red and gold to end his career. Some may find Phoenix’s more vulnerable portrayal of everyone’s favorite archaeologist superior to Ford’s gruff turn. And there will be those among you that believe that John was simply holding Paul back…

We can chew over the merits and demerits of my cultural examples above as much as we like, but the truth is, the phenomenon of a watch being so much better at one diameter than another (to the point at which the assessment is as close to categorical as an unavoidable subjective subject can be) is nothing new.

Rolex Day date

Take the Rolex Datejust or Day-Date, even. I won’t even entertain the notion that the 36mm variants are anything but the very best. Sure, you might be forced by your corporal proportions to plump for the bigger diameters, but that doesn’t mean you have to ignore the reality. The smaller one is better, and, I would say, markedly so.

Ludwig,Tetra, Orion

The same could be said of basically every Nomos core model powered by the brand’s sub-dial sporting alpha caliber. The 35mm Tangente, Orion, and Ludwig, and the 27.5mm Tetra work better than a lot of the larger variants that use the same movement because they were designed around that caliber’s dimensions.

And despite those three examples, smaller isn’t always better. It’s about the watches themselves and their inherent character. I’d argue staunchly that the Czapek Antarctique is superior in its original 40mm diameter rather than the subsequent 38mm version. So too is the original Omega Speedmaster concept more aesthetically appealing than the huddled display of its weirdo cousin, the Speedmaster Reduced.

What we think of the Tissot PRX 35mm Powermatic 80

The design process is a funny thing. In recent times, the advent of AI has perhaps changed the way we think about what it actually comprises.

Tissot PRX 35mm Powermatic 80 Ice Blue

We always used to say it was a journey and the suggestion was therefore that revolutionary designers blazed a previously untrodden trail to pastures new. It was a colorful metaphor that seemed to satisfy even the most stringent sensibilities of the time, but an increasing number of “homage” watches and the prompt-centric design pathway of AI-assisted creation have caused me to reevaluate.

Perhaps, if we were to stick with the original analogy, the designer is not walking an entirely new path, but rather assembling that path from pieces of paths that have been walked before. Rather than a random venture into the unknown, then, it becomes an editing exercise (almost). Instead of the previously accepted lightbulb moment, it is in fact many little lightbulbs going on at once and illuminating a room that, when illuminated correctly, appears to have always been there rather than something very new at all.

And that, it seems to me, is the goal. To create something that is both new and foreknown. To birth something fully formed that seems to have skipped its developmental phase and be the be product of some unseen maturation is close to godliness in this sphere.

Tissot PRX 35mm Powermatic 80 Radiant Gold

Sure, you can take that thing and make it different sizes to meet commercial demand. But that perfect conglomeration of moments that result in something that seems hewn from pure imagination rather than the clever integration of all the imaginations that have gone before, cannot be bested.

Tissot PRX 35mm Powermatic 80 Ice Blue

Ultimately, the Tissot PRX 35mm Powermatic 80 is one of those magical pieces. Having it now in this exquisite (and versatile) ice blue is a treat. The all-gold model is surely a striking piece, which, in theory, I am all for, but I do wish Tissot had gotten a little crazy and made it in solid 18k gold with a deliciously retro black “John Player Special” dial. It looks great as it is (although some may be turned off by the brassiness of the PVD), but the possibility is still there for Tissot to fully push the boat out on this concept and give us something truly remarkable (even if that means we have to ditch the divine bracelet for a black leather strap to keep the price in touch with the rest of the catalog — I don’t mind because the richness of real yellow gold would make all the difference).

Tissot PRX 35mm Powermatic 80 Radiant Gold

Inside these 35mm watches (that stand 10.9mm Thick on the wrist and measure 39.5mm From lug-to-lug) is the Tissot Powermatic 80 movement, a rebranded ETA C07.111, which is effectively a souped-up member of the ETA 2824 family, boasting an 80-hour power reserve.

Tissot PRX 35mm Powermatic specs and price

Movement: Tissot Powermatic 80 caliber

Functions: Time and date

Cases: 35mm × 10.9mm stainless steel or PVD-coated stainless steel, water-resistant to 100m

Dial: Ice blue or radiant gold

Strap: Integrated bracelet

Price: Ice Blue (T137.207.11.351.00) USD 695, Radiant Gold (T137.207.33.021.00) USD 825

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FEATURED FROM ARTICLE

Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross x Alessandro Palazzi x Revolution & The Rake Bellytanker Chronograph "Vesper"

$5,250.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber BR.CAL-301; 42-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	41mm; CuAI7Si2 bronze; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices
Strap	Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post The Tissot PRX 35mm Powermatic 80, now in Ice Blue and Radiant Gold appeared first on Revolution Watch.

How I spent 24 hours in Mykonos with the Omega Seamaster and the marvelous Mr George Clooney

Eleonor Picciotto — Tue, 11 Jul 2023 08:30:25 +0000

How I spent 24 hours in Mykonos with the Omega Seamaster and the marvelous Mr George Clooney

This summer, Eleonor Picciotto joined in the Omega Seamaster 75^th anniversary celebrations and finally got to live the dream she’s had since… forever.

News

By Eleonor Picciotto

Jul 11, 2023

Towards the end of June is usually a time when we, watch journalists, have traveled quite extensively, jumping from one plane to another trying to keep up with emails, calls and what’s happening in our beloved industry. And so, the first morning I open my eyes not knowing where I am nor what day of the week it is, even if it’s just for a few seconds, that’s when I realize that it’s time to calm down.

Truth be told, I absolutely adore traveling — especially when it’s with impeccable organizations to discover mechanical marvels in sumptuous locations that we probably couldn’t access nor afford otherwise. And this Omega trip was no exception. In fact, it was beyond my expectations. In the span of 24 hours, I realized that more than 50 shades of blue exist; I got my hands on the eight new Seamaster references before anyone else could; I met with the dream team sailors Peter Burling and Blair Tuck who created a charity called Live Ocean; I fell completely in awe with Victor Vescovo — and in love (again) with Clooney, but I mean, who wouldn’t?

Mykonos: 12 hours to get there, 24 hours to spend there

It’s 8.45 a.m. and I can already feel a light warm breeze penetrating the immaculate white bedroom reaching the XXL bed I have been sleeping on for the last eight hours. It almost feels like summer. No wonder: I am in Mykonos, this beautiful Greek island we’ve been hearing about for the last few years where party animals from all over the world come to enjoy having music blasted into their ears while enjoying some grilled octopus with olive oil. Thank you, but no thank you. However, discovering this island made of rocks, white structures and turquoise beaches the way Omega imagined for the 75^th anniversary of the Seamaster, was unreal.

Sunny Mykonos was the location of Omega Seamaster's 75th anniversary event

But why did Omega choose to hold the event on the Greek island? The reason can be traced back to the very origin of its name. Let’s go back in history for a second: in 1894, Louis Brandt’s sons, Louis-Paul and César, took over the family business and under their leadership, the company underwent significant developments and innovations, including the introduction of the revolutionary Omega caliber in 1894, which marked the birth of the Omega brand.

“Omega” was chosen because of its symbolism. Being the last letter of the Greek alphabet, it represents the ultimate accomplishment, perfection and achievement. By adopting the name Omega, the brand aimed to convey its pursuit of precision and excellence in watchmaking. The 75^thanniversary of the Seamaster collection marks another milestone for the brand.

Unveiling eight new Seamaster 300 “Summer Blue” references

After a breakfast within range of 50 shades of blue of the Aegean Sea, we headed to the iconic Bagatelle restaurant, another place overlooking the water, but this time to discover the eight novelties with stunning gradated blue dials of different shades that correspond to their varying water resistance, ranging from the light blue of the Aqua Terra to the deep dark blue of the Ultra Deep. The eight models were presented on blue degradé wooden stands matching each reference of the Summer Blue collection. Each watch features a commemorative caseback with an engraving of Poseidon and two seahorses, and of course, not to forget the infamous Co-Axial caliber! Speaking of which…

Summer Blue is theme of Omega's new Seamaster collection

Why the Omega Co-Axial Movement was such a revolution

Traditional mechanical watches utilize a lever escapement, which is susceptible to friction and requires regular maintenance to ensure accurate timekeeping. The defining characteristic of the Omega Co-Axial movement is its innovative escapement system, which was developed in collaboration with master watchmaker George Daniels and revolutionized mechanical watchmaking.

The Co-Axial escapement is made of three primary components: the escape wheel, the anchor, and the co-axial impulse pinion. Unlike the traditional lever escapement, which operates with sliding friction, the Co-Axial escapement operates with a combination of sliding and rolling friction. This unique design reduces the friction between the components, resulting in increased accuracy and reduced wear over time. It also enhances the watch’s precision, leading to improved timekeeping performance. The movement requires less maintenance and fewer lubrications, resulting in longer service intervals and increased longevity.

Furthermore, the Co-Axial escapement contributes to the smooth and precise sweeping motion of the watch’s seconds hand, enhancing its aesthetic appeal. In other words, the Omega Co-Axial movement is a groundbreaking advancement in mechanical watchmaking, offering enhanced precision, longevity and aesthetic appeal.

Let’s get ChatGPT to explain it to you as if you were a toddler — well, a smart one at least.

You know how watches have a little part called an escapement that helps them tick and keep time? Well, the Omega Co-Axial movement has a super special kind of escapement that is different from what most watches use. It’s like having a superpower! The Co-Axial escapement is like a clever system inside the watch that helps it to work better and stay accurate. It’s made up of three important parts: the escape wheel, the anchor, and the co-axial impulse pinion. These parts work together to make sure the watch ticks precisely.

What’s so cool about the Co-Axial escapement is that it reduces something called friction. Friction is like resistance that happens when two things rub against each other. Normally, watches have a lot of friction, and that can make them less accurate over time. But the Co-Axial escapement is designed in a special way to reduce friction.

When there’s less friction, the watch becomes super accurate! It can keep time more precisely, which is really important for a good watch. And, guess what? Because there’s less friction, it also means that the watch doesn’t need as much maintenance or repairs. That’s pretty awesome! Another neat thing about the Co-Axial movement is how smooth and fancy it makes the seconds hand move. You know how the seconds hand in some watches seems to sweep really smoothly? That’s because of the Co-Axial escapement. It gives the watch a cool and elegant look.

Omega worked really hard to make the Co-Axial movement even better by using special materials like silicon. These materials make the watch tougher and more resistant to things that can mess with its accuracy, like magnets. So, in a nutshell, the Omega Co-Axial movement is revolutionary because it makes watches more accurate, and reduces the need for repairs.

Customised Omega Seamaster tableware? Yes pls!

Meet Victor Vescovo, my second crush (after George, obviously)

Not that I don’t want to brag about the exquisite lunch we’ve had, but it’s far more inspiring to talk about Victor Vescovo. Like many of you (and I was part of the many), I had never heard about that guy aside from reading about some adventure underwater where the Omega Seamaster proved yet again how robust, reliable and necessary of a watch it was when going below sea level. But that’s about it, until I sat down facing this six-foot-tall American with full-white and longer hair than mine (that says a lot) tied up in a ponytail. He was telling an anecdote about the time he went underwater with Prince Albert II of Monaco, whom he has the privilege to call “Al”, and he got a call from his team that stayed above, asking to bring the Prince back up. “But we haven’t found what we came for,” said Prince Albert to Vescovo, “tell them they can wait.” Vescovo laughed and added, “Must be good to be a prince sometimes.”

We spent the next 20 minutes exploring the depths of the ocean through Vescovo’s stories. He is not just an Omega Ambassador, but also a record-breaking adventurer and pioneer who dared to explore the deepest parts of our planet underwater; climbed the highest summits of this Earth; and, just for fun, went to space. The guy has literally pushed the boundaries of human exploration. Meanwhile, I just wonder if I will manage to get my nails manicured for my next watch event.

Some fun facts for you to shine at your next social dinner: Victor Vescovo holds several world records for venturing to the deepest points of the Earth’s oceans. In 2019, he made history by becoming the first person to complete a solo submarine dive to the bottom of the Challenger Deep, the deepest part of the Mariana Trench in the Pacific Ocean. Descending an astonishing 10,928 meters (35,853 feet), Vescovo’s journey opened new frontiers of knowledge about the Earth’s underwater depths. As if it wasn’t enough, in 2020, he embarked on the Five Deeps Expedition: a project to reach the deepest points of all five oceans.

During this ambitious endeavor, he achieved a series of record-breaking submarine dives, including the Puerto Rico Trench in the Atlantic Ocean, the South Sandwich Trench in the Southern Ocean, the Java Trench in the Indian Ocean, and the Molloy Deep in the Arctic Ocean. Bear in mind that there are 27 deep sea trenches in the world, and Vescovo piloted his submersible into 17 of them, and for 11 of them, he was wearing his Omega. Once he even lost a lander on which the watch was attached for two full days. After an extensive search, they finally retrieved the lander and his Seamaster that was still ticking after spending 48 hours at the bottom of the ocean.

Victor Vescovo

Omega and Victor Vescovo: A perfect partnership

He was about to hop on another crazy journey of his when he visited his local watch dealer in Dallas, Texas to find a watch that would hold extreme pressure; one that could not only resist water, but measure time in extreme depths. In no time, his first Omega Seamaster landed on his wrist. As it has been designed for diving purposes, with its robust construction and sealing mechanism to withstand such pressure, the Seamaster rapidly turned out to be what he needed. Ever since then, Vescovo has been relying on Omega timepieces as part of his crucial tools for his missions. His partnership with Omega not only showcases the durability and precision of Omega timepieces, but also reflects their shared dedication to preserving the planet’s natural wonders. Through this, Vescovo inspires us all to embrace our adventurous spirit and venture into uncharted territories, reminding us that the quest for discovery knows no bounds.

Blair Tuke & Peter Burling: the Dream Team

Speaking of people who care deeply about the destiny of our oceans and the state of our planet, Blair Tuke and Peter Burling were also attending the event. Blair and Peter are professional sailors from New Zealand who have achieved remarkable success in the world of sailing. For the last 15 years, they have sailed the world as best buddies. While Blair is recognized for his exceptional athleticism, strategic thinking and ability to navigate challenging sailing conditions, Peter is known for his versatility, exceptional helming skills, and is widely regarded as one of the most talented and successful sailors of his generation.

Blair Tuke

Peter Burling

In addition to their sailing accomplishments, they have also co-founded a charity called Live Ocean. Through their charity, Tuke and Burling advocate for sustainable practices and support initiatives focused on ocean conservation, restoration and scientific research. The charity collaborates with scientists, researchers and conservation organizations to develop innovative solutions for the challenges facing our oceans. One of their initiatives is to promote the concept of a “Blue Economy”, which emphasizes the sustainable use of ocean resources and the development of industries that benefit both the economy and the environment. The organization actively supports projects that align with this vision, including marine protection initiatives, sustainable fisheries management, and the reduction of plastic pollution. When you ask Peter what would be the number one thing we as consumers can do, he replies, “Start paying careful attention to the provenance of the seafood you buy and eat.”

Furthermore, Tuke and Burling leverage their influence as prominent sailors and ambassadors for sustainability to raise awareness about the impact of climate change on the oceans, and advocate for global action to mitigate its effects. By engaging with communities, educational institutions and policymakers, Live Ocean strives to create lasting change and foster a collective sense of responsibility for the future of our oceans. The link between Live Ocean and the Omega Seamaster watch lies in their shared commitment to ocean conservation and sustainability.

When looking at their friendship, listening to their stories and realizing how connected and aligned they were, it truly gave me a different perspective on how we live on a daily basis with our habits (good or bad), and how we can cultivate the right mentality in order to play our part to help the environment.

Omega CEO Reynaldo Aeschlimann (far left) and Omega's celebrity friends of the brand

Back to George …

Have you ever been close enough to a celebrity you’ve said a million times it was your dream to meet? I have, and let me tell you that even if you have created 235 scenarios in your head you will never ever be prepared for the real thing.

The sun was setting on a beach Omega managed to make private for the evening. Picture this: 2,000 candles covered the sand where a strong breeze was making sure my hair would make me look as if I had just gotten out of bed, or, as if I had stuck two fingers into an electrical socket. There were 140 guests split into two tables and I was fortunate enough to sit at George Clooney’s. My dinner companion seated diagonally to me happened to be George’s European agent and former bodyguard. When I learned that piece of info towards the end of the dinner, I jumped right at him, “So it means that it’s with you that I need to negotiate with in order to get a picture with your boss.” He laughed and explained that if he agreed, the 138 other groupies would want to do the same. I don’t blame them. I mean, he’s a fuckin’ 62-year-old god I would date in a split second, even if, for the record, he is my Dad’s age. Thankfully, he’s married to a goddess named Amal Clooney, and fully taken. Although… I have to say that when I laid eyes on him, it felt was as if I was struck by a bolt of lightning from Zeus himself.

But then George’s agent said, “Listen, when George sends me a signal that he wants to go, I will send you one, give you clearance with security, and you can meet us by the car so I can introduce him to you.” Deal!

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And he did. “So nice meeting you. I am George,” said the man of many dreams to me. Since he mentioned that he was considering moving to France, I said he needed to meet a true French person before heading home. He laughed and told me he wanted his kids to speak français. I had to pinch myself very hard to stop myself from suggesting that I could become his French au pair, hum for the kids bien sûr. He touched my lower back, I felt his arm for the sake of a picture. And as I headed back to Geneva, I thought about his tanned skin, his Colgate smile, his Italian suit and leather shoes, and the frame I would get for our official portrait… So if you see me carting off to France after this, don’t be too surprised s.v.p.

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FROM THE SHOP

Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross x Alessandro Palazzi x Revolution & The Rake Bellytanker Chronograph "Vesper"

$5,250.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber BR.CAL-301; 42-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	41mm; CuAI7Si2 bronze; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices
Strap	Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post How I spent 24 hours in Mykonos with the Omega Seamaster and the marvelous Mr George Clooney appeared first on Revolution Watch.

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