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Introducing the Citizen AQ4100-65W

Rob Nudds — Wed, 25 Oct 2023 06:01:09 +0000

Introducing the Citizen AQ4100-65W

There was a time when color ruled the watch world, but today is not that day. Textures are more important than ever as discerning watch collectors look to add variety rather than vivaciousness to their watch boxes. The Tosa washi paper dialed Citizen AQ4100-65W does just that.

News

By Rob Nudds

Oct 25, 2023

For longer than anyone probably cares to mention, Grand Seiko has been regarded as the duke of decoration, the prince of patterns, and the untouchable titan of texture. Lovers of luxury watchmaking have long had their eyes turned east by the seemingly peerless dial designs of the Japanese juggernaut. And yet, that might be changing. Grand Seiko is far from alone in its homeland. Smaller independent brands like Minase, Hajime Asaoka, and Asaoka’s more accessible side-brand Kurono Tokyo are upping their efforts to be acknowledged abroad, and their success seems to be inspiring the somewhat slumbering giant that is Citizen to wake up and make a move for the top spot it could fairly claim it deserves.

Initial thoughts

The brand of Citizen is very active in certain ways. Its highly functional and affordable watches are distributed globally and represent one of the most trusted products on the market. It dominates high street windows the world over. It even invests heavily in the creation of extremely accurate quartz pieces (such as the Caliber 0100, planet Earth’s most accurate light-powered quartz watch with a staggering annual accuracy of +/- one second). And yet, when it comes to finishing, the skill for which Japanese watchmaking is perhaps most lauded internationally, Citizen’s name is seldom mentioned among the greats.

Well, that might be about to change with the further extension of the brand’s beguiling Tosa washi paper range, which sees the Citizen AQ4100-65W join its ranks. This limited edition model is powered by an extremely precise light-powered Eco-Drive caliber boasting timekeeping stats five times worse than the C0100, but many times better than almost anything else on the market. For those of us more used to mechanical timepieces being feted for chronometric performance defined as a daily rate between +6 and -4 seconds, the +/- five seconds per year performance is truly stunning.

Citizen AQ4100-65W

But the real charm of the AQ4100-65W is in its dial design. This time, Tosa washi paper has been embellished by the use of powdered platinum leaf. This pulverized precious metal is applied using the ancient Japanese decorative technique known as Sunago-maki. Each piece is lovingly brought to life by skilled artisans to “evoke the image of freshly fallen snow.”

Citizen AQ4100-65W

If that reminds you of another famous Japanese watch from GS, you’re not alone. However, this model is markedly different from Grand Seiko’s famous Snowflake model in its creation process and perhaps even more stunning to behold because of it.

The Sunago-maki technique requires an artisan to place flakes of material (platinum is used here but other materials such as gold have been used in the past) in a bamboo tube and then sprinkle them over a base surface to create this dazzling effect. For this model, Tosa washi paper forms the base surface. It has been used for generations in the construction of traditional Japanese houses to allow light to flood interior spaces, making it the perfect medium to employ on the dial of a light-powered timepiece.

The crisp, almost angelic colorway of the dial is further enhanced by the case. Here, Citizen’s Super Titanium*2 material (approximately 40% lighter than stainless steel and five times harder), which, for this model, has been treated with Duratect*3 Platinum, is deployed with great effect, giving a brighter and whiter appearance to the watch.

Citizen AQ4100-65W

This is particularly notable because of regular platinum’s softness (which comes in somewhere between 50-110 Hv). The Duratect technology improves the Vickers hardness of platinum to 1,000 Hv, which makes it extremely durable and suitable for the daily rigors of life on the wrist.

One slightly under-the-radar fact about all of Citizen’s highly accurate calibers is that they also feature an automatic perpetual calendar, which will ensure this watch displays the correct date from now until February 28, 2100, assuming the capacitor (which takes the place of a traditional battery) is replaced as and when is necessary).

The dial is signed by the brand’s name and its eagle motif, which represents the dual ideals of Citizen, described as “foresight and dedication to the pursuit of ideals as well as the enduring connection between watch and wearer.”

Citizen AQ4100-65W

What we think

There’s a lot to like about this elevated collection from Citizen. We recently covered Citizen’s previous release in this line (the Citizen Eco-Drive Black Washi Paper Dial Limited Edition, reference AQ4103-16E), which came in a Duratect Gold case with gold hands, a black dial, and gold maki decoration. I commented at the time that my preference would have been a slight luxurification of reference AQ4091-56A, a white dialed-variant that I felt might have benefitted from a gold handset, a la the Grand Seiko SBGA059, but this model has made me rethink those musings.

To me, this is easily the best iteration of the washi paper/Sunago-maki concept. The platinum elevates this proposition to an entirely new level and the Duratect Platinum-coated bracelet is a massive upgrade on the black leather strap that came with reference AQ4103-16E. Better still, the price increase is just USD 500, with this piece sitting at $4,300 in comparison to the $3,800 of the AQ4103-16E. Lastly, there will be 500 units of AQ4100-65W made available worldwide, a significant and sensible uptick on the 350 pieces of the AQ4103-16E made available.

Citizen AQ4100-65W

All in all, this is the most exciting Citizen watch I’ve ever encountered. I was, like most of the watch industry, wowed by the technical brilliance of Caliber C0100, but was personally left cold by the design (and hot under the collar by the five-figure price tag).

Here, I think we have a finely balanced offering that sits below 5K, utilizes traditional Japanese materials and techniques, and melds that seamlessly with a reliable and resilient EcoDrive movement. It is most certainly a piece capable of melting the Grand Seiko Snowflake’s mystique with a huge amount of differentiation in a contemporarily sized package.

Tech Specs

Citizen Eco-Drive Tosa Washi Paper Dial Limited Edition

Reference: AQ4100-65W
Movement: Cal.A060 with an annual variation of ±5 seconds
Functions: Time (hours, minutes, and seconds) and date
Case: 38.3 mm × 12.2 mm, hardened Super Titanium coated with Duratect Platinum, water-resistant to 100 m
Dial: White Tosa washi paper with platinum leaf maki
Strap: Super Titanium bracelet coated with Duratect Platinum
Price: USD 4,300
Availability: Available November 2023 and limited to 500 pieces worldwide.

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FROM THE SHOP

Unimatic

Unimatic x Revolution U1 Milsub "Blue"

$1,220.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber SW200-1b; 41-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes and seconds
Case	41.5mm; 316 steel with Cerulean blue stonewashed Cerakote coating, matte vintage navy aluminium bezel insert; water resistant to 300m
Dial	Matte vintage navy; hour markers outlined in Super-LumiNova
Strap	Vintage navy TPU-coated nylon; additional vintage navy nylon with fabric keepers
Limited Edition	Limited Edition of 200 pieces

The post Introducing the Citizen AQ4100-65W appeared first on Revolution Watch.

The Grand Seiko SBGW297 and SBGW299 focus on the details

Rob Nudds — Fri, 13 Oct 2023 04:14:06 +0000

The Grand Seiko SBGW297 and SBGW299 focus on the details

One for the detail-oriented fans.

News

By Rob Nudds

Oct 13, 2023

I would wager that every seasoned watch lover remembers exactly how they felt the moment they discovered the oft-obscured world of watchmaking. There is a rush of wonder when you realize that the hobby even exists. At that moment, you feel like Howard Carter peering into the blackness of the boy king’s tomb, blinking away the darkness and acclimatizing to the subtle glint of gold as it reveals itself to living eyes for the first time in centuries. You ponder (and can be forgiven for doing so) whether anyone else knows about it or whether you and you alone are destined to become its sole custodian for time immemorial. You consider keeping quiet and not telling anyone the treasures you’ve unearthed but, sooner or later, the desire to share overcomes you and you seek out like-minded weirdos. There must be one or two, right?

And then you meet someone much further along in their journey and your perception of the hobby is once more turned upside down. The world you thought you knew isn’t a world at all; it’s a universe entire. There are endless levels, esoteric nuances, and libraries full of knowledge desperate to be discovered and pored over. More baffling still, there are humans (who look vaguely normal for the most part) who communicate not with words, but rather with long strings of seemingly random numbers and letters, which you would have deemed gobbledygook were you not the only one who didn’t seem to understand.

No matter how long you spend floating around the watch universe, there will always be someone who knows a reference number you don’t (and will gleefully express mock shock when you shrug and admit your understandable ignorance). But for Grand Seiko fanatics, there are four characters you really need to know, no matter how recently you’ve begun your descent down the rabbit hole.

44GS.

The Grand Seiko 44GS, 1967 (Image: Grand Seiko)

It’s a case reference, not a model number. It is, however, more famous among aficionados of Japanese watchmaking than any other case reference I can call to mind. First conceived in 1967, the 44GS platform was the perfect expression of Grand Seiko’s case finishing ability and it has not been topped since. In 2013, the brand saw fit to update the model, increasing its diameter in light of market pressure to do so, but it wasn’t really necessary. Sure, it would’ve taken incredible resolve (and perhaps a dash of recklessness) for Grand Seiko to ignore commercial trends and stick to its guns, but even given the brand’s desire to appeal to a broader, more international market, I’m not sure it would’ve done too much harm.

Case in point, just nine years later (and just five years after GS became a separate entity from Seiko), the mid-size 44GS was released in 2022. At 36.5mm in diameter, 11.6 mm thick, and a wrist-friendly 42.7 mm lug-to-lug, this was a purist’s dream. Now, Grand Seiko proudly adds the identically sized SBGW297 and SBGW299 to its Heritage Collection.

SBGW297

SBGW299

What we think about the SBGW297 and SBGW299

I’m very comfortable in saying, this iteration of the 44GS is the best yet. It is actually a little narrower (although also a little thicker) than the 1967 original, but that added boxiness makes it wear even smaller on the wrist, resulting in a curiously contemporary look.

As always, the product presentation suffers from two major problems that Grand Seiko seems unwilling to address. Firstly, the product photography is frustratingly sterile and does absolutely nothing for the incredible finishing of the case, dial, indices, and hands.

Secondly, and perhaps more unforgivably, the standard Grand Seiko bracelet design has borrowed a trick from the Omega Seamaster 300M with its insistence on holding back an otherwise heavenly creation. Although it measures just 18 mm at the lugs, it retains that width at the clasp and looks as out of place here as a doily in a Daft Punk music video. It’s stuffy, out of touch, and totally disrupts the otherwise exquisite balance between tradition and futurism the 44GS case was always able to strike.

Then again, these watches seem quite clearly targeted at those already acquainted with the brand, understand its foibles, and know how to get the best out of its watches (and by that I mean put both of these models on tapered leather straps immediately and thank me later). Thank the stars for those drilled lug holes, which make strap swaps all the easier.

Bracelet gripes and lackluster photography aside, I’m all in on these latest additions, but it is absolutely essential you get them on your wrist before dismissing them as a solid go-anywhere, do-anything option. The 100 meters of water resistance is thankfully retained despite the smaller case sizes, and the dials, while visually engaging, are quiet enough to work with smarter attire as well as more casual threads.

The hand-wound Caliber 9S64 won’t be to everyone’s tastes, but it is largely responsible for the slimness of these watches and, for my money, is something that will be celebrated by those who want an excuse to interact more intimately with such a finely decorated watch case, which incorporates Grand Seiko’s signature Zaratsu mirror polishing alongside its hairline finishing for unrivaled contrast.

Happily, though, the 9S64 has a 72-hour power reserve and thus will only need to be rewound every couple of days to maintain good performance levels, which is listed as a chronometer-crushing +5 to -3 seconds per day (when at rest).

For me, this twin release is a tacit triumph. It won’t set the watch community into a tailspin, but it should, at the very least, elicit a satisfied smile and a respectful nod of approval from those who care the most about Grand Seiko’s direction.

The biggest quandary raised by the watch head itself is which of the two dial colors to choose! The white of the SBGW297 is quintessentially Grand Seiko — clean and clinical but perhaps a little cold — while the beguiling blue might make better use of the fluted design that is sure to look 100 times better on the wrist and in natural light than any digital image could hope to match.

Whichever takes your fancy, I am sure you’ll find a faithful friend and constant companion in it, and that, just like the 44GS in mid-size, is exactly as it should be.

Tech Specs

Grand Seiko SBGW297 and SBGW299

Movement: 9S64
Functions: Hours, minutes, and central seconds
Case: 36.5 mm × 11.6 mm, lug-to-lug 42.7 mm, stainless steel case with magnetic resistance up to 4,800 A/m, and water resistance to 100 m
Dial: Blue or silver engraved sun-ray pattern
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with three-fold clasp with push button release, 18 mm wide at the lugs
Price: USD 5,400

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FROM THE SHOP

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Bell & Ross x Alessandro Palazzi x Revolution & The Rake Bellytanker Chronograph "Vesper"

$5,250.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber BR.CAL-301; 42-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	41mm; CuAI7Si2 bronze; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices
Strap	Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post The Grand Seiko SBGW297 and SBGW299 focus on the details appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Seiko Unveils Two Limited-Edition Prospex Land Models: SPB411 and SLA071

Lee Sheng — Thu, 12 Oct 2023 07:00:32 +0000

Seiko Unveils Two Limited-Edition Prospex Land Models: SPB411 and SLA071

Dive-watch-esque case with a solid metal bezel.

News

By Lee Sheng

Oct 12, 2023

While Seiko continues to introduce a variety of new dive watch models, the brand has recently turned its attention to a different lineup for a refreshing change. The latest offerings from the Japanese watchmaker consist of two Prospex wristwatches designed for land-based adventures, rather than sea exploration: the Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition SPB411 and the Landmaster 30th Anniversary Limited Edition SLA071. What distinguishes these watches is their all-metal bezels, a departure from the more common aluminum or ceramic bezel inserts typically found on dive watches.

Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition SPB411

First up is the SPB411, a recreation of the Navigator Timer ref. 6117-8000 from 1968, which happened to be the brand’s first GMT watch with a rotating bezel. Notably, the SPB411 is a faithful reissue, maintaining the dimensions and design of the original.

The new SPB411 features a modest 38.5 mm-wide case, similar to the vintage original’s 38 mm. The dial also closely adheres to the original in both general design and specific details. It adopts the grey “sun-ray” dial, as well as the baton indices and hands, including the distinctive red GMT hand with stubby, equilateral triangle tip. Even the lettering on the bezel remains true to the vintage original.

The only difference lies in the dial printing, where it lacks the Navigator Timer branding and other details. However, fortunately, the latest version does not overwhelm the dial with excessive logos, such as the Prospex logo, preserving the restrained and retro look and feel of the dial.

It’s worth noting the bracelet as well. The original Navigator Timer offered a range of bracelet choices, one of which was a five-link bracelet. The latest model takes cues from this design but adds a modern twist with a more angular and faceted profile, departing from the rounded links of the original. This update results in an appealing look that harmonizes with the watch’s robust aesthetic.

Inside the watch is the cal. 6R54, which builds upon the cal. 6R35 by adding a GMT hand. As a result, it maintains a 72-hour power reserve, but the local hour hand cannot be set in one-hour increments. Instead, the 24-hour hand can be adjusted in one-hour increments.

Landmaster 30th Anniversary Limited Edition SLA071

Moving on to a higher-end model, the SLA071 is designed to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the Landmaster lineup. While it shares the broad strokes of the original Landmaster, such as the case style and compass bezel, the similarities end there.

Instead, the new SLA071 has been upgraded with a more nuanced dial and movement. The dial displays a gradient blue hue that deepens towards the edges, and it also incorporates a subtle pattern that adds depth to its visual appeal. The blue tone is nicely complemented by the inclusion of a gilt logo and seconds hand, which was not part of the original design.

Noteworthy is the SLA071’s construction, which, despite its somewhat bulky 42mm width, is made lightweight through the use of titanium for both the case and bracelet, an improvement over the original steel construction.

Lastly, the movement inside is the cal. 8L35, essentially a simplified version of the earlier Grand Seiko 9S movement, specifically the cal. 9S55. Consequently, it offers a 50-hour power reserve, which falls slightly short of the modern norm of three days. However, this does not detract from the fact that it is a robustly engineered movement.

Seiko Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition SPB411 specs and price

Movement: 6R54; automatic; 72 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT, and date
Case: 38.5 mm x 12.6 mm; steel; water resistant to 100 m
Strap: Steel bracelet
Availability: At Seiko’s boutiques and retailers
Limited edition: 4,000 pieces
Price: USD 1,500

Seiko Prospex Land Landmaster 30th Anniversary Limited Edition SLA071 specs and price

Movement: 8L35; automatic; 50 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Case: 42 mm x 12.7 mm; titanium; water resistant to 200 m
Strap: Titanium bracelet
Availability: At Seiko’s boutiques and retailers
Limited edition: 1,000 pieces
Price: USD 2,600

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FROM THE SHOP

Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross x Alessandro Palazzi x Revolution & The Rake Bellytanker Chronograph "Vesper"

$5,250.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber BR.CAL-301; 42-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	41mm; CuAI7Si2 bronze; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices
Strap	Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post Seiko Unveils Two Limited-Edition Prospex Land Models: SPB411 and SLA071 appeared first on Revolution Watch.

The indulgent Citizen Eco-Drive Black Washi Paper Dial Limited Edition

Rob Nudds — Wed, 30 Aug 2023 01:30:55 +0000

The indulgent Citizen Eco-Drive Black Washi Paper Dial Limited Edition

In a largely mechanical world, Citizen, along with its Japanese brethren Casio and Seiko, continues to produce top-quality luxury quartz. The new Citizen Eco-Drive Black Washi Paper Dial Limited Edition continues that trend but with an extremely indulgent edge.

News

By Rob Nudds

Aug 30, 2023

Endless discussions on what constitutes luxury horology can be had. In fact, were the answer a simple one, it is very likely the watch industry would have withered and died a long time ago. Luxury means different things to different people. While some focus on price and attainability, others focus on materials and craftsmanship. When it comes to the movement itself, the conversation tends to veer between the preference for the form of a meticulously machined, hand-finished caliber and cold-blooded accuracy. It is perhaps the clearest contest between the worlds of art and science within our industry.

So, what does it take to elevate the technically jaw-dropping but charmlessly clinical performance of a battery-powered quartz-regulated caliber so finely tuned it boasts an annual variation of just +/- 5 seconds to the status of luxury product? The answer, it would seem, is everything else.

Citizen Eco-Drive Black Washi Paper Dial Limited Edition

Initial thoughts on the Citizen Eco-Drive Black Washi Paper Dial Limited Edition

Here, Citizen has endeavored to bring aesthetic novelty and interest to both the case and the dial of the Washi Paper Dial Limited Edition. The strap, while hardly groundbreaking, is at least genuine Crocodile leather and looks to be nicely made. At the very least, it complements the other components well and sits comfortably alongside a gold-plated case that is actually crafted from Super Titanium.

Citizen Eco-Drive Black Washi Paper Dial Limited Edition

The underlying material of the case very much suits the technical character of the in-house A060 module. However, given Citizen’s desire to up the aesthetic ante for a watch projected to retail at or around USD 3,800, modifying the extremely utilitarian look of Super Titanium was deemed necessary. Enter Duratect, a tough gold-colored coating that enhances this watch’s visual character immediately.

Aside from its attractive color, Duratect gold is extremely scratch-resistant. Citizen wanted to ensure that this luxurious housing would stand up to the daily beating to which one would normally expect a highly accurate quartz watch to be subjected, making the unusual coating material a great choice. Normal gold is very soft, with a hardness rating of just 20–70 Vickers. Conversely, Duratect gold has a staggering hardness rating of 1,100–1,500 Vickers (for comparison, stainless steel has an untreated hardness of 150 Vickers). Supposedly, this means the watch will retain its desirable sheen for longer.

Citizen Eco-Drive Black Washi Paper Dial Limited Edition

Case aside, however, the real star of the show is the dial, the story and reasoning behind it, and the way it interacts with the light-powered Eco-Drive Cal.A060. The dial is made from Washi paper, which you will probably have seen being used in shoji sliding screens in Japan. Its intended purpose is to bring light to indoor living spaces, which makes it the perfect material with which to cover the dial-side solar cells of the caliber.

Rather than using plain Washi paper, Citizen has opted to further enhance its luster by sprinkling crushed flakes of gold over the surface. This traditional Japanese method is called Sunago-maki and is performed by hand, ensuring that each dial is utterly unique.

Citizen Eco-Drive Black Washi Paper Dial Limited Edition

What we think of the Citizen Eco-Drive Black Washi Paper Dial Limited Edition

I very much believe in the power of quartz. As a technology, I love it and cherish its explosive history now it has become clear that both it and mechanical horology can coexist. There are many ultra-reliable quartz watches in my collection, but the ones that receive the most attention are doted on not for their superior accuracy, but rather for their multi-functionality.

There is a time and a place for most things in the watch industry when done well. For me, a watch’s movement should suit the watch’s intended use. If a piece is designed to be elegant, so too should the movement be refined, well-finished, and, preferably, mechanical.

If a watch has been conceived as a tool, a basic quartz module can easily be excused. The argument for employing such technology becomes even easier when you drag in all of the things an electronic timer can do that a mechanical corollary cannot.

With the new Citizen Eco-Drive Black Washi Paper Dial Limited Edition, and all previous editions of the Washi paper concept (of which there are several), I can’t help but question the congruity of the movement and, specifically, the case.

Citizen Eco-Drive Black Washi Paper Dial Limited Edition

The use of a paper dial sprinkled oh-so-delicately with gold dust is an absolutely perfect match for the Eco-Drive caliber that sits behind it. In fact, as far as the storytelling goes, this is one of the best efforts I’ve ever encountered from a Japanese brand. It is succinct, sensible, and satisfying.

However, if I could design my perfect watch around this concept, I would look first to reference AQ4091-56A, a white Washi paper dial watch in the core collection, and simply add a solid gold handset to it (in much the same way Grand Seiko did with its iconic Spring Drive Snowflake platform when it released reference SBGA059 to complement reference SBGA211). Such a design would lean on its textures rather than making the case the focal point.

Citizen Eco-Drive White Washi Paper Dial reference AQ4091-56A

Although it is apparent that Citizen anticipated a significant amount from this specific release, the watch itself possesses an appealing design that is likely to attract the attention of customers worldwide. The technology incorporated within the timepiece is impressive, accompanied by aesthetically pleasing features. If you find the overall package appealing, it presents an enticing opportunity. However, it is advisable to act swiftly if this watch aligns with your preferences, as it is highly probable that devoted Citizen enthusiasts will readily embrace the notable price associated with the 350-piece limited edition.

Citizen Eco-Drive Black Washi Paper Dial Limited Edition

Citizen Eco-Drive Black Washi Paper Dial Limited Edition Specs and Price

Reference: AQ4103-16E
Movement: Cal.A060 with an annual variation of ±5 seconds
Functions: Time (hours, minutes, and seconds) and date
Case: 38.3 mm × 12.2 mm, hardened Super Titanium coated with Duratect Gold, water-resistant to 100 m
Dial: Black Japanese washi paper with gold leaf maki
Strap: Crocodile leather
Price: USD 3,800
Availability: Limited to 350 pieces

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FEATURED FROM ARTICLE

Sold Out

Angelus

ANGELUS x REVOLUTION CHRONODATE "ANGELS' SHARE"

$23,800.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber A-500; 60 hours power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	42.5mm; titanium; water resistant to 30m
Dial	Salmon (6N gold plated) with gené or frosted area; Super-LumiNova filled Arabic numerals
Strap	Ballistic gray rubber; titanium folding clasp

The post The indulgent Citizen Eco-Drive Black Washi Paper Dial Limited Edition appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Grand Seiko SBGJ275 and SBGM253 GMT watches commemorate 25 years of Caliber 9S

Bhanu Chopra — Thu, 24 Aug 2023 03:00:55 +0000

Grand Seiko SBGJ275 and SBGM253 GMT watches commemorate 25 years of Caliber 9S

Grand Seiko is the “King of Chronometry” when it comes to fine watchmaking. The brand celebrates a quarter-century of its groundbreaking Caliber 9S with the launch of two very different GMT watches – Hi-beat Sports model and mid-size Elegance model. The light blue dial on both the watches draw inspiration from the ethereal skies over Mt. Iwate.

News

By Bhanu Chopra

Aug 24, 2023

The Legacy of Caliber 9S

In 1998, the world of horology was revolutionized with the debut of the Caliber 9S. It was a stellar achievement that marked a new epoch in the history of Grand Seiko mechanical watches. This innovative movement was engineered from the ground up to embody the precision and durability that has been synonymous with the brand since its inception.

From this robust foundation, Grand Seiko expanded its portfolio, introducing a series of movements that offered an array of functions, escapements, and complications. These include the groundbreaking Caliber 9SA5 with its Dual-Impulse Escapement and Grand Seiko’s inaugural mechanical chronograph, the Tentagraph.

The Caliber 9S also gave life to a myriad of GMT watches, each bearing a unique style and equipped with Hi-Beat movements. The 25-year journey of the Caliber 9S is a testament to Grand Seiko’s relentless pursuit of innovation and craftsmanship in watchmaking.

Commemorating 25 Years of Excellence: New Grand Seiko GMT Models

To mark this milestone, Grand Seiko is unveiling two new GMT models in its Sport and Elegance Collections. These timepieces draw inspiration from the ethereal skies over Mt. Iwate, the region where every Grand Seiko mechanical watch is assembled by hand by its master artisans.

Grand Seiko Sport SBGJ275

Grand Seiko Elegance SBGM253

A Tribute to Dawn: The Sport Collection GMT Watch SBGJ275

The new GMT watch from the Sport Collection is a visual poetry that narrates the rare sight of a dense sea of clouds at dawn. The design takes cues from the serene blue skies over Mt. Iwate, as seen from the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, when it is cloaked by this sea of clouds.

The watch features a clear sapphire crystal case back (a first for Grand Seiko 200m diver), offering a sneak peek into the titanium oscillating weight. This weight carries a light shade of blue, achieved through an anodic oxidation process. This is a groundbreaking feature for a Grand Seiko mechanical watch with a water resistance of 200 meters.

Grand Seiko Sport SBGJ275

The watch also boasts a rotating bezel with a sapphire crystal in blue and white, augmenting its design and enabling the display of three time zones simultaneously. Powering this timepiece is the reliable 9S mechanical movement – in this case, the Hi-Beat GMT Caliber 9S86. With its frequency of 36,000 vph, it ensures accurate timekeeping.

Grand Seiko Sport SBGJ275

The Skyline from Mt. Iwate: The Elegance Collection GMT Watch SBGM253

The second timepiece, a limited-edition model from the Elegance Collection, encapsulates the captivating blue tone of the sky as seen from the peak of Mt. Iwate. The watch’s classic form is accentuated by a mirror-finished bezel and case, gently curved lugs with a distortion-free mirror finish achieved through Zaratsu polishing, and a box-shaped sapphire crystal.

Grand Seiko Elegance SBGM253

Despite its timeless design, a see-through case back reveals the thoroughly modern 9S66 GMT movement. This movement is fitted with a titanium oscillating weight in Grand Seiko blue, colored by the same anodic oxidation treatment.

Grand Seiko Elegance SBGM253

Like all Grand Seiko GMT watches, its user-friendliness is ensured through the independently adjustable local hour hand. This feature ensures precision is maintained even when adjusting the time according to the wearer’s travel schedule. The tempered blue GMT hand can be aligned to any time zone of one’s choice. The blue 24-hour scale printed on the pale blue sunray dial displays the second time zone, ensuring both subtlety and readability in this anniversary edition’s design.

Grand Seiko Elegance SBGM253

Celebrating the Milestone: Limited Edition Watches

The Sport Collection GMT watch is a limited edition of 2,000 and will be exclusively available from the Grand Seiko Boutique Online starting in September 2023. From the next month, it will be extended to the Grand Seiko Boutiques and select retail partners.

The Elegance Collection GMT watch, a limited edition of 1,700, will be available at the Grand Seiko Boutiques and select retail partners worldwide beginning in October 2023.

Grand Seiko SBGJ275 and SBGM253 Specs and Price

Grand Seiko Sport SBGJ275

Case: 44.2mm x 14.8mm, stainless steel, 200m
Movement: 9S86 Hi-beat GMT automatic, 36,000 vph (10 bps), 55 hours power reserve
Dial: Light blue with white “clouds” tapestry
Strap: Steel bracelet
Availability: Limited to 2,000 pieces
Price: USD 7,600

Grand Seiko Elegance SBGM253

Case: 39.5mm x 13.7mm, stainless steel, 30m
Movement: 9S66 GMT automatic, 28,800 vph (8 bps), 72 hours power reserve
Dial: Light blue sunray
Strap: Steel bracelet with three-fold clasp and push-button release
Availability: Limited to 1,700 pieces
Price: USD 5,600

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TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber BR.CAL-301; 42-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	41mm; CuAI7Si2 bronze; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices
Strap	Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post Grand Seiko SBGJ275 and SBGM253 GMT watches commemorate 25 years of Caliber 9S appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Introducing the Grand Seiko SBGA481 “Tokyo Lion”

Lee Sheng — Tue, 15 Aug 2023 02:04:54 +0000

Introducing the Grand Seiko SBGA481 “Tokyo Lion”

A bold new offering from the elegant watchmaker

News

By Lee Sheng

Aug 15, 2023

While Grand Seiko is historically renowned for its elegant and business-oriented wristwatches, the brand has, in recent years, delved into the realm of sports watches, adding an array of new cases that diverge from their regular collections. Among these, the most distinctive is the multifaceted face introduced in 2019 with the SBGA403 during the 20th anniversary of the Spring Drive movement. This case design rarely makes its way into the brand’s standard catalogue, but fortunately, this trend is shifting with the introduction of the SBGA481 “Tokyo Lion”.

A bold case with an elegant dial

The latest SBGA481 presents a case and dial that bear the unmistakable mark of Grand Seiko, thanks to their high-quality finishes. Yet, within these familiar elements, lie details that set it apart within the brand’s offerings. Let’s explore the case first.

In line with the design philosophy of many Grand Seiko models, the SBGA481 features a tonneau-esque shape, departing from the traditional round design. What distinguishes it, though, are the wide facets that elegantly highlight finely polished, flat surfaces. These facets are notably broader than those typically found on quintessential cases like the 44GS.

This design occasionally finds its place within the Grand Seiko catalogue. Since its debut four years ago during the 20th anniversary of the Spring Drive, only a select few Grand Seiko timepieces have adopted this case, most of which have been limited editions. However, the exciting news is that the latest SBGA481 is now part of the regular production lineup. Another piece of good news is that despite its large 44.5 mm case size and wide facets, comfort remains uncompromised. This is because the entire watch, including the bracelet, is made of lightweight titanium.

Similarly, the dial adheres to the expected pattern for a Grand Seiko piece, yet it unveils larger and more organically brushed strokes. Introduced in 2019, this novel “lion mane” pattern has become a recurrent motif across various collections, portraying subjects such as clouds and cherry blossoms. It now ranks among the most recognizable dial designs, standing alongside classics like the “Snowflake” or “Iwate” dials.

Interestingly, prior examples that featured this combination of case and dial tended to carry a more sporty demeanour. This character wasn’t solely shaped by the daring case design, but also by the choice of dial colours – often favouring dark or bold hues, as evident in the original SBGA403 and SBGA405 “Godzilla” editions.

However, the latest SBGA481 adopts a refined approach to dial colours. It now presents a light, silvery hue described by the brand as opaline. This gentle colour imparts a sense of tranquillity that balances the bold case design, lending the timepiece a versatile character suitable for various occasions.

Our verdict

The SBGA481 is a distinctive Grand Seiko timepiece, featuring an unusually large 44.5 mm case with sharply defined angles and facets, yet paired with a delicate dial. However, it’s this distinctiveness that precisely enhances its allure. Enthusiasts of the brand who already possess an assortment of Grand Seiko watches (often with similar cases and movements but varying dials) may find this watch particularly appealing due to its capture of the brand’s quintessential attributes – exquisite dial and impeccable case – within a wholly unique package, despite being one of the more expensive time-only Grand Seiko watches.

Grand Seiko SBGA481 “Tokyo Lion” Specs and Price

Movement: 9R65; automatic; 72 hours power reserve

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and power reserve indicator

Case: 44.5 mm; titanium; water resistant to 200 m

Strap: Titanium bracelet

Availability: At boutiques and select retailers

Limited edition: No

Price: USD 10,400

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Dial	Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices
Strap	Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post Introducing the Grand Seiko SBGA481 “Tokyo Lion” appeared first on Revolution Watch.

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