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Introducing the Ulysse Nardin Diver Starry Night and Marine Torpilleur

Rob Nudds — Thu, 26 Oct 2023 09:03:29 +0000

Introducing the Ulysse Nardin Diver Starry Night and Marine Torpilleur

Thanks to its early marine chronometers, Ulysse Nardin is often associated with the ocean. These watches pay homage to this with dials that evoke the heavens that once guided intrepid seafarers to port.

News

By Rob Nudds

Oct 26, 2023

It is rare for a brand to be so many things at once. Ulysse Nardin is simultaneously a staunchly traditional and avant-garde brand. It is known for two separate wings of its history. On the one hand, it is an esteemed producer of marine chronometers. Its timepieces were renowned for shepherding bold sailors from harbor to home and back again. Few names in our industry illicit the same level of respect in this field as UN, and yet, in modern times, it is for something quite wild (one might go as far as to say freakish) and far from the high seas for which the brand is best known.

While the brand’s early chronometers were concerned with the survival of the mariners who relied upon them, the release of the Ulysse Nardin Freak platform in the early 2000s busied itself with the survival of the industry.

Setting the stage

At that time, at the turn of the century, watchmaking was at an inflection point. The mechanical craft had risen from the grave, buoyed by a complete reevaluation of what a watch was and why one should be worn. Watches were suddenly collectible. The industry was thriving but seemed perplexed by its own existence. How long could this continue? For how much longer could these old brands keep on making old watches and hope to survive? Somebody needed to do something. Something needed to change. Somehow, the industry needed to reinvent itself once more.

Just twenty years after it looked like the quartz crisis had put the final nail in the coffin of traditional watchmaking only for it to be saved by a quartz-regulated phenomenon (Swatch), traditional watchmaking was once again rescued by an unlikely hero — a legacy watchmaking brand that abruptly decided to focus on thoroughly non-traditional watchmaking.

The Freak was born. The gloves came off. Modern watchmaking became an exciting place to be because, at long last, it was finally modern. Ulysse Nardin continued to develop and diversify its Freak line but, despite always being revered and even beloved, the brand did not perhaps receive its due.

A shifting wind

Finally, that is changing. Under the watchful eye of Jean-Christoph Sabatier, Chief Product Officer of Ulysse Nardin for the past seven (almost eight) years, the brand has firmly found its feet in this era. The catalog is sorted into distinct collections: the Freak, the Blast, the Classico, the Marine, and the Diver. There is something for everyone in the current lineup. The Freak, the Blast, and the Classico represent the more experimental lines of the brand, while the heritage of UN is perpetuated by the Marine family and the adventurous, hands-on spirit is exemplified by the Diver models.

Ulysse Nardin Diver Starry Night

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase Aventurine

Today, we’re treated to new additions for the Marine and Diver lines. In an unexpected twist, aventurine has been used for both dial displays. Initially, it perhaps feels more at home on the Marine (a dressier, more traditionally styled watch to begin with), but, for me, as an avid fan of the Ulysse Nardin Diver collection, seeing one of my favorite dial materials deployed on one of my favorite dive watch platforms is both exhilarating and bizarre. Does it make sense from a practical perspective? Maybe just about as much as the forty diamonds studding the uni-directional bezel do, but the aim of this piece is clear from the get-go: this is a testament to the brand’s abilities, not a dive watch intended to be used at the maximum depths its robust construction can endure.

IMHO

It’s a funny thing to countenance as a designer. To look at a watch and know that by all teachable metrics, the piece in question should not work, only to find yourself admitting (even if a small amount of duress is required to elicit such an admission) that it’s so beautiful you just don’t care.

That’s where I am with the Diver Starry Night. It is not a tool watch. Or, rather, it was a tool watch, but since the aventurine dial and diamonds crashed the party, it ceased to be. What it is, is something other. It is a celebration. It’s arguably the most dinner-ready desk diver in the history of watchmaking. This watch knows it isn’t seeing a drop of the drink, and it’s fine with it. Perhaps it could bring itself to make it as far as the beach, but actually SCUBA diving? I doubt it.

Ulysse Nardin Diver Starry Night

However, despite its thematically incongruous design, it succeeds in dressing the Diver in its finest frock yet. Consequently, it may be one of the better watches intended for women on the market today.

I don’t want to speak for female watch fans, but it is pleasing to see a watch concept that was previously targeted at men, treated so sympathetically. It is smaller than the standard model, but not by much. The Diver Starry Night measures 39 mm in diameter versus the 42 mm of the standard line. So too is the automatic caliber retained. Yes, there are diamonds on the bezel, but they don’t feel as condescending as they would on a miniaturized quartz-regulated version of the same watch. And perhaps the addition of aventurine, a material that manages to straddle the gender divide, almost softens the diamonds’ presence. It feels more thought-out, more considered, more serious a watch than many targeted at women (even today).

But what is aventurine? Well, truth be told, it can be one of two things. There is a stone called aventurine that is also used in watchmaking on occasion (it has a very similar appearance), but more common is aventurine glass (or “avventurina”, which literally means “accident” in Italian). That’s what we see here on both the Diver and Marine Torpilleur models.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase Aventurine

The story goes that sometime during the eighteenth century on the island of Murano in Venice (famous for its fineglassware), a glass-maker accidentally knocked a pot of copper filings into a cauldron of molten glass. The resulting material with its metallic inclusions became highly desirable. The goal, of course, is to create aventurine glass with a uniform distribution of metallic flecks and free from any bubbles or impurities. Achieving that is not easy. The results, however, as we can see with these two stand-out pieces, make the effort worthwhile.

There is something even more special about the Diver model’s dial, however. Amazingly, a thin layer of aventurine glass has been placed over a thin layer of Mother of Pearl, which has created this swirling, cloud-like, nebula-esque effect on the dial. It is, in a word, stunning.

For the Marine Torpilleur, the aventurine dial is a departure from the norm. This exclusive 300-piece limited edition is presented in a 42 mm stainless steel case and boasts a double-counter display with the moon phase and small seconds indication at 6 o’clock and the watch’s 60-hour power reserve (thanks to the in-house UN-119) displayed at 12.

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase Aventurine

It is truly a fusion of the brand’s heritage and its hopes for the future. The styling recalls the classic marine chronometers, the dial extols the brand’s investment in keeping artisanal crafts alive, and the movement, with its ultramodern escapement (comprising a silicon balance spring as well as a DIAMonSIL escapement wheel and anchor), is a glowing advocate for innovation.

In my humble opinion, Ulysse Nardin is heading in the right direction, and I for one couldn’t be happier that one of the most storied brands of our craft has such a rosy road ahead of it.

Tech Specs

Ulysse Nardin Diver Starry Night

Reference: 8163-182B1-3A/3A (rubber strap), 8163-182B1-3A/1A (alligator strap)
Movement: Automatic caliber UN-816
Functions: Time and date
Case: 39 mm wide stainless steel case set with 40 diamonds (0.8 carats), water-resistant to 300 m
Dial: Aventurine
Strap: Blue structured rubber strap or white alligator leather strap, with stainless steel tang buckle
Price: USD 14,700 excluding taxes

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase Aventurine

Reference: 193-310LE-3A-AVE/1A
Movement: Automatic UN-119 Manufacture caliber with DIAMonSIL escapement wheel and anchor
Functions: Moonphase. Hours, minutes, small seconds.
Case: 42 mm wide stainless steel case, water-resistant to 50M
Dial: Aventurine with double counter: power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, small seconds and moon phase disc at 6 o’clock
Strap: Blue alligator strap, leather strap
Price and availability: Limited to 300 pieces, USD 13,600 excluding taxes

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FROM THE SHOP

Unimatic

Unimatic x Revolution U1 Milsub "Blue"

$1,220.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber SW200-1b; 41-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes and seconds
Case	41.5mm; 316 steel with Cerulean blue stonewashed Cerakote coating, matte vintage navy aluminium bezel insert; water resistant to 300m
Dial	Matte vintage navy; hour markers outlined in Super-LumiNova
Strap	Vintage navy TPU-coated nylon; additional vintage navy nylon with fabric keepers
Limited Edition	Limited Edition of 200 pieces

The post Introducing the Ulysse Nardin Diver Starry Night and Marine Torpilleur appeared first on Revolution Watch.

The Eagle has Landed: Planet Omega Touches Down in New York City

Rob Nudds — Mon, 23 Oct 2023 09:00:40 +0000

The Eagle has Landed: Planet Omega Touches Down in New York City

Omega has had more than its fair share of legends of the wrist. Books and articles go some way to describing these hallowed timepieces’ importance, but nothing beats being in the presence of greatness. Now, thanks to Planet Omega, you can pay them a visit in New York City.

News

By Rob Nudds

Oct 23, 2023

Between November 9th and 19th, you’ll be able to enjoy Omega’s story in person. Located at the Chelsea Factory, NYC, the Planet Omega pop-up offers an immersive experience of the brand and its history. For even passing fans, the opportunity to see some of the icons of watchmaking should not be missed. Watches worn by luminaries such as Elvis Presley and JFK will be on display, as well as timepieces that changed the industry itself.

Key moments in Omega’s story will anchor the exhibition, with the brand’s extensive relationship with the Olympic Games, the part it played in the Space Race, its role in deep-sea exploration, and its presence on screen (specifically the wrist of a certain secret agent) the defining pivot points of the narrative.

During 1932 LA Olympics, a timing board with eight Omega split-seconds pocket chronographs that was used to time track & field events

Eyes on the prize…

Since establishing itself as a leader in the field of sports timekeeping, Omega has continued to support and sponsor sporting events and athletes around the world. With ambassadors such as “the Baltimore Bullet”, 23-time gold medalist Michael Phelps, and seven-time champion and track legend Allyson Felix, Omega has shown its eye for attaching itself to talent. As such, you can expect to see the inspiring stories of these sporting heroes touched upon at Planet Omega.

Beyond the individual partnerships, however, Omega concerns itself with major sporting events such as the America’s Cup. Special editions commemorating the brand’s connection to the most prestigious sailing competition in the world are numerous enough to form the basis of a collection themselves, with some classic models within their ranks. The most recent homage to New Zealand’s current champions (Emirates Team New Zealand) is one for the ages, with its unusual black ceramic case paired with electric turquoise highlights. It showcases Omega’s willingness to diversify and evolve its product offering in the face of collaboration and change, something the Planet Omega exhibition will focus on extensively.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean ETNZ Deep Black

And while watches like the Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black Emirates Team New Zealand Edition are certainly geared to the future, Omega has not forgotten the importance of its past (especially not when it comes to sport).

In fact, one of the original split-seconds chronographs used to time races at the Olympic Games in 1932 will be present and is referenced as the inspiration for Omega’s new Chrono Chime caliber — the most complex movement ever made by the brand.

Olympic 1932 Chrono Chime

Eyes on the stars…

But while international sport can indeed break down barriers between countries and cultures, little compares to the barriers broken by the Apollo missions that sent humankind to the moon.

Since its NASA qualification for manned spaceflight in 1965, Omega has had a front-row seat for this chapter of history. And the relationship between the fabled Swiss brand and astronauts goes back even further than that.

NASA’s test engineer, Jim Ragan putting the Speedmaster through its paces at NASA

In 1962 when Wally Schirra wore his own, privately purchased CK2998 Speedy on board Mercury-Atlas 8 mission, it became the first Omega worn in Space. This legendary model, along with many others, will be on display in New York for this ten-day period.

What lies beneath…

But perhaps the most timely display of all is the one that focuses on Omega’s history beneath the waves. This year, 2023, sees the 70th anniversary of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Widely regarded as the first modern dive watch, the Fifty Fathoms is Blancpain’s most famous model. As a fellow member of the Swatch Group, Blancpain has also buddied up with Swatch (as Omega did with the Moonswatch) to produce a BIOCERAMIC version of its undisputed icon.

Omega X Swatch Mission to the Moon

However, while there is a strong case to be made for Blancpain having debuted the first commercially available modern dive watch, Omega was many years ahead of the curve when it came to debuting the first watch capable of withstanding submersion to serious depths.

Following Rolex’s 1926 release of the Oyster case (the world’s first water-resistant wristwatch), Omega released the Marine in 1932. Where this differed from the Oyster (aside from its novel “case within a case” construction), was the depth to which it claimed resistance.

The Omega Marine, 1932

By modern standards, the early Oyster case, while revolutionary in itself, was not suitable for diving. The Marine, meanwhile, was tested at the bottom of Lake Léman in Geneva at a depth of 73 meters. Five years after the first test (which had been conducted in 1936), the watch was tested under strict laboratory conditions and was found to be waterproof all the way down to 135 meters. This, without much doubt, made it the first actual divers’ watch, and a milestone for the watchmaking industry in general.

The exhibition also encompasses Omega’s modern-day efforts to stay on top in the diving game, with a display dedicated to the recent Seamaster “Ultra Deep” watches, released in 2019. These models continue the Marine’s esteemed legacy having been tested at the deepest point ever recorded at the bottom of the ocean (in the Mariana Trench). Remarkably, the Omega Ultra Deep series is water resistant to a staggering 6,000 meters (or 20,000 ft).

The Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep 6000 m with a 45.5 mm case

From the shadows to the silver screen

And lastly, Planet Omega has a section honoring the world’s most famous spy, James Bond. Since 1995’s Goldeneye, the MI6 sleuth has worn an Omega. In Daniel Craig’s recently concluded tenure as the beloved heartthrob-come-hitman, the screen time afforded to each Omega model increased, with the Seamaster 300 variant designed for Spectre playing an active role in the plot (and ultimately being responsible for Blofeld’s disfiguration — a standout moment in the self-contained series of five films).

Daniel Craig as Bond in the 2006 film, Casino Royale wearing the Seamaster 300m in his Brioni tuxedo (Image: omegawatches.com)

Since the launch of No Time To Die, Omega has continued to produce anniversary specials in the James Bond canon, much to the delight of brand and Bond collectors alike.

Whatever era of production of milestone moment appeals to you most, it is likely Planet Omega has you covered. If you happen to be in the area (or feel like making a special trip), the Planet OMEGA exhibition will run from November 9th to 19th at the Chelsea Factory, 547 W 26th Street. Doors will open between 11 am to 7 pm every day throughout.

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FROM THE SHOP

Unimatic

Unimatic x Revolution U1 Milsub "Blue"

$1,220.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber SW200-1b; 41-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes and seconds
Case	41.5mm; 316 steel with Cerulean blue stonewashed Cerakote coating, matte vintage navy aluminium bezel insert; water resistant to 300m
Dial	Matte vintage navy; hour markers outlined in Super-LumiNova
Strap	Vintage navy TPU-coated nylon; additional vintage navy nylon with fabric keepers
Limited Edition	Limited Edition of 200 pieces

The post The Eagle has Landed: Planet Omega Touches Down in New York City appeared first on Revolution Watch.

From Military Legacy to Modern Luxury: The Ascendant Identity of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

Revolution — Thu, 19 Oct 2023 11:00:45 +0000

From Military Legacy to Modern Luxury: The Ascendant Identity of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

Blancpain

By Revolution

Oct 19, 2023

Reflecting today’s rapidly evolving tastes and lifestyles, “quiet luxury” has emerged as a trend that guides the modern consumer, eschewing conspicuous branding, flamboyant colors, loud names, and excess use of precious materials such as gold and diamonds — unless you’re a rapper or music mogul, in which case that is only par for the course. Rather, quiet luxury puts a strong emphasis on pure quality and distinct identity.

This notion of luxury appeals especially to those who value excellence and discretion, often striking a chord with individuals of “old money”, such as those so accurately reflected in the HBO series Succession. Indeed, even Jay Z has moved on to quiet luxury timepieces these days, for they possess an inherent elegance that resonates with all who desire luxury in its purest form.

So for those who lean towards subtlety, functionality, and seek a more understated form of luxury, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms emerges as a unique and compelling option.

The epitome of luxury dive watches

To grasp why the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms holds such a special place in the world of contemporary luxury, we first need to understand the essence of luxury watches. At its core, a watch is designed for timekeeping — a function it should execute with flawless precision. However, the line between a basic timekeeping instrument and a luxury timepiece is marked by the meticulous craftsmanship, intricate design, and superior finishing that elevate the latter to an exceptional standard.

From left: Fifty Fathoms “Nageurs de combat” in steel, Automatique in red gold (Image © Revolution)

And what of dive watches? These rugged timekeeping tools are engineered to excel in challenging underwater environments. Borne of pure utility, their primary mission is to keep accurate time while remaining legible and durable to ensure the safety of divers. So can a dive watch transform into a luxury timepiece without compromising on practicality and straying from its identity as a reliable tool watch? The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms provides a compelling answer to this question.

Over the course of 70 years, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has undergone a remarkable transformation, evolving from a utilitarian dive watch into a symbol of modern understated luxury. Very much a cult favorite among dive watch enthusiasts today, it resonates with individuals who possess discerning taste and who seek something genuinely distinctive, and that traces its origins to a most seminal moment in modern watchmaking history.

Consider this: The bezel insert of the present day Blancpain Fifty Fathoms isn’t a typical polished ceramic disc commonly found in dive watches. Instead, it features a dramatically domed piece of sapphire crystal. This might be but a minute feature in the grand scheme of things, however, when you see it up close, you’ll immediately sense its elegance and the opulent aura it exudes. More importantly, there is nothing else quite like it, and over time the domed sapphire crystal along with other signature hallmarks has come to define the core aesthetic of the Fifty Fathoms.

Fifty Fathoms Automatique

Likewise, the watch’s crystal also takes a rounded and domed design, exuding an unmistakable aura of sophistication and elegance, making it ever popular among watch enthusiasts. While the modern Fifty Fathoms stands at a robust 45mm, don’t be daunted by its dimensions. The broad bezel effectively reduces the available dial space, resulting in a more compact overall appearance. Those short and downturned lugs minimize the watch’s footprint and guarantee a comfortable fit on your wrist. In select models, the use of lightweight titanium or ceramic keeps the watch lightweight despite its strapping proportions. These thoughtful details combine to ensure that the Fifty Fathoms exudes confidence and a commanding presence while maintaining a balanced and non-overwhelming feel on the wrist.

Fifty Fathoms Automatique in titanium

Through the years, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has also consistently evolved in the horological sense, featuring some of the manufacture’s signature high and medium complications such as the 8 Days Flying Tourbillon, its triple calendar with moon phase display, the day-date function, the big date function, and many more. Yet at its core, it remains true to its roots as the earliest dive watch in recorded history. Its style doesn’t flaunt opulence; instead, it embodies refined taste, becoming a symbol appreciated by true enthusiasts who recognize its stature.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tourbillon 8 Jours, Ref: 5025-12B40, with NATO strap

But how did the Fifty Fathoms come about?

To truly understand the story of the Fifty Fathoms and thus the significance of its modern identity, we must trace its origins and evolution. The first chapter begins with Jean-Jacques Fiechter, who played a pivotal role in the company from 1950 to 1980. Fiechter was not only a businessman but an avid diver as well. His firsthand diving experiences inspired solutions for underwater timekeeping challenges, which included a double-sealed crown, a bezel lock, and a system securing the “O” ring in the case back channel, all patented by Blancpain.

Jean-Jacques pursuing his underwater hobby. Image by Blancpain.

Simultaneously, French combat divers Captain Robert “Bob” Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Riffaud faced difficulties with the choice of watches available in Paris, which were challenging to read underwater and prone to leakage. Their path crossed with Jean-Jacques Fiechter’s, resulting in the birth of the Fifty Fathoms. It passed the rigorous tests of the French military and became an essential tool for divers.

However, a supply issue emerged as the French government mandated the sourcing of all dive gear from French companies only. This led to a partnership with Spirotechnique, a subsidiary of Air Liquide, who then marketed the Fifty Fathoms under their “Aqualung” brand.

An early Fifty Fathoms with Arabic numeral markers at the quarters. Image by Blackbird Watch.

From that point, the Fifty Fathoms found rapid success in the military and later on, the civilian markets. Notably, it forged an important connection with Jacques-Yves Cousteau, the renowned French naval officer and oceanographer. Cousteau, whose wife’s family owned Air Liquide, selected the Aqualung-branded Fifty Fathoms watches for his diving team, which were delivered through Spirotechnique.

The manufacture’s early history also involves Allen V. Tornek, a New York-based diamond dealer and friend of Blancpain’s owners. Tornek saw the chance to supply these watches to the US Navy, but Blancpain couldn’t do it directly since it wasn’t a US company. Tornek then set up a local testing lab and secured a US government contract, resulting in the co-branded Tornek-Rayville “Milspec 1” Fifty Fathoms, with an initial order of 611 watches. Rayville, as watch aficionados are well aware, is the name of Blancpain’s US registered company and an inversion of the word Villeret, where the Blancpain manufacture is located. Later, the “Milspec 2” (TR-900) was produced with minimal magnetic materials to avoid triggering bombs, with a total of 1080 pieces delivered.

The moisture indicator, a distinctive characteristic of the MIL-SPEC 1, can be seen at the six o'clock position. Image by Blancpain.

In the civilian market, Blancpain recognized that not everyone could pull off a large 41mm watch. Just a few years after the debut of the original Fifty Fathoms, the brand introduced the smaller Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe, featuring cases as small as 34.5 mm. Later in the 1970s, Blancpain produced a wide variety of Fifty Fathoms and Bathyscaphe models, with funky colors and designs that perfectly captured the spirit of that era. These stylish smaller models marked the first step in the Fifty Fathoms’ transition from a practical tool to a unique accessory.

Two vintage Bathyscaphe models from the early years. Image by Blancpain.

After its formative years, the Fifty Fathoms went through a second chapter marked by modernity and a zest for adventure. In 1983, Jean-Claude Biver and Jacques Piguet took over the brand, embarking on a renaissance rooted in traditional watchmaking while also expanding its repertoire to encompass sports watches. In 1997, the brand unveiled a Trilogy of sports watches designed for air, sea, and land applications, all sharing a common 40.3 mm case, bezel, and bracelet design. The Fifty Fathoms represented the sea, the Air Command took to the skies, and the Fifty Fathoms GMT was tailored for land.

An unusual Fifty Fathoms from the Trilogy era featuring a white dial. Image by Fratello.

This period is remarkable for two reasons: the revival of the Fifty Fathoms and the infusion of modern creativity. Blancpain introduced significant changes, such as updating the traditional black bezel with a bright metallic one featuring raised numerals, adding an elegant touch. They also ventured into new materials, including precious metals like rose, yellow, and white gold — a first for the Fifty Fathoms line. In 1999, the Concept 2000 collection pushed the boundaries with its stylish two-tone steel and rubber bezel and bracelet.

The Trilogy era, spanning from 1997 to 2003, witnessed significant success attributed to the exceptional quality in terms of design and finishing of the watches, along with an impressive movement providing a 100-hour power reserve. It marked the second phase of Blancpain’s transformation of the Fifty Fathoms into an easily wearable accessory, highlighting as well the fusion of luxury and functionality.

Turning into an exclusive icon

Forging ahead in the new millennium, this chapter is where the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms saw its most dramatic evolution yet. In 2002, its current President and CEO Marc A. Hayek took over the helm of the company and he had very quickly recognized the allure of the Fifty Fathoms. The watch was to celebrate its 50^th anniversary in 2003 and seizing the opportunity, he introduced a new and modern re-edition within the year. That pivotal model was the Fifty Fathoms 50th Anniversary.

The 50th Anniversary model, accompanied by a special rubber strap in addition to the metal bracelet. Image by Blancpain.

What sets this watch apart and why is it significant? The Fifty Fathoms 50th Anniversary model marked a significant departure from Jean-Claude Biver’s era of all-metal bezels. Instead, it debuted a sapphire bezel insert, paying tribute to the vintage bakelite bezel, but with enhanced practicality — the sapphire bezel concealed the luminescent numerals beneath. This shift set the tone for all subsequent modern Fifty Fathoms watches. Limited to 150 pieces, it was divided into three batches for the European, Asian, and American markets, with the case backs engraved as Series I, II, and III.

Then in 2007, following four years of preparation since the 2003 anniversary launch, Blancpain reintroduced a full-fledged, regular collection of Fifty Fathoms. This relaunch brought about two significant changes: the 45mm case that still characterizes today’s collection and the introduction of complicated models. Notably, its tourbillon with eight-day power reserve, as well as audacious professional models like the X Fathoms, designed with a depth gauge.

In 2013, Blancpain revived the Bathyscaphe line, featuring a more modest 43 mm case compared to the 45 mm Fifty Fathoms. The Bathyscaphe evoked the spirit of the original with a sleek, angular case design and a cleaner overall dial. Image by Blancpain

It was within this modern era that the Fifty Fathoms reasserted its status as a pioneering dive watch and even attained a cult following. Several key models garnered significant attention following fervent demand, notably the special limited editions featuring a 40.3 mm case. These pieces have been introduced almost annually since 2017.

For instance, in 2017, Blancpain unveiled the Fifty Fathoms “Tribute to Mil-Spec,” a 500-piece limited edition featuring a highly wearable case with elements reminiscent of the early military models. The revival of the “Mil-Spec” designation after decades delighted true enthusiasts and collectors. In 2018, Blancpain introduced the Fifty Fathoms Ocean Commitment III, featuring a blue dial and bezel, and the brand’s Ocean Commitment logo at six o’clock to emphasize the manufacture’s contributions to ocean conservation.

The “Mil-Spec” limited edition from 2017

2019 witnessed the debut of the Fifty Fathoms Barakuda, with its instantly recognizable red and beige hour markers inspired by a 1970s version for the German Navy. In 2020, Blancpain revisited the “Mil-Spec” with Hodinkee by removing the date, and in 2021, Blancpain resurrected the highly coveted “No Rad.” All of these models featured the coveted 40.3 mm case, distinguishing them from the modern 45mm Fifty Fathoms, and contributing to their overall desirability. Vintage watch lovers might be glad to recall that all the Fifty Fathoms watches made at the turn of the millennium were also in 40.3mm.

The “No Rad” limited edition from 2021

The modern limited editions truly define the latest phase and identity of the Fifty Fathoms, as they are exquisite, unique timepieces that exclusively resonate with connoisseurs and are highly sought after within that select circle.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 2 – Tech Gombessa

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 3

Over the last seven decades, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has undergone a remarkable transformation, evolving from its origins as a military underwater timekeeping tool into a symbol of understated luxury. The Fifty Fathoms 70th anniversary Acts 1, 2 and 3 provide a cool visual summary of the watch’s incredible horological journey.

It has continually embraced advancements in materials, water resistance, movements, and most importantly, new and creative designs. Furthermore, the introduction of special limited editions paying tribute to historical eras has further heightened its prestige. Its limited production quantities assure its exclusivity to a discerning circle of connoisseurs who love nothing more than to revel in its long and storied history.

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FEATURED FROM THE SHOP

Unimatic

Unimatic x Revolution U1 Milsub "Blue"

$1,220.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber SW200-1b; 41-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes and seconds
Case	41.5mm; 316 steel with Cerulean blue stonewashed Cerakote coating, matte vintage navy aluminium bezel insert; water resistant to 300m
Dial	Matte vintage navy; hour markers outlined in Super-LumiNova
Strap	Vintage navy TPU-coated nylon; additional vintage navy nylon with fabric keepers
Limited Edition	Limited Edition of 200 pieces

The post From Military Legacy to Modern Luxury: The Ascendant Identity of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Beyond the Surface: Three Intriguing Facts About Swatch x Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms

Lee Sheng — Mon, 25 Sep 2023 01:00:35 +0000

Beyond the Surface: Three Intriguing Facts About Swatch x Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms

We answer your questions, both technical and philosophical.

News

By Lee Sheng

Sep 25, 2023

Much like last year’s Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch collaboration, the latest partnership with sister brands at Swatch is creating a buzz. The launch of the Blancpain x Swatch Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms has drawn long queues, piquing the interest of both watch collectors and newcomers to the hobby, aligning perfectly with the series of collaborations’ intended goals.

This has sparked numerous questions about the Scuba Fifty Fathoms. Beginners want to understand its history and relevance, while collectors are curious about its movement’s durability, and both groups are contemplating its price points. In this article, we’ll address three key aspects of the watch that you might want to know: Is the movement repairable? Is the case made of plastic? Is it a dive watch like the original?

The Scuba Fifty Fathoms Antarctic Ocean

1. The watch is more repairable than it appears

Arguably, the hottest debate surrounding the Blancpain x Swatch collaboration revolves around the durability and longevity of the watch. It is commonly believed that the movement within the Scuba Fifty Fathoms, despite being an automatic mechanical movement, is not repairable, and the watch must be disposed of if any issues arise regarding timekeeping. Many lament that this contradicts Blancpain’s philosophy, which emphasises environmental preservation and sustainability.

However, our research contradicts this belief, and we confirmed this with Swatch. After years of refinement, Swatch’s mechanical watches have shown to be more repairable than previously thought. There is absolutely no need to discard the watch. Here’s why:

First, let’s understand what Sistem51 is. While Swatch is primarily known for its quartz watches, it has also ventured into mechanical watches. As a high-volume mass producer of timepieces, Swatch’s mechanical watches are designed for efficiency. They feature highly simplified movements with as few parts as possible and undergo an automated assembly process. The result is the Sistem51 movement, announced in 2013 and introduced to the market in 2014. It comprises just 51 components yet boasts impressive features such as anti-magnetism and a 90-hour power reserve.

A blow-up view of the Sistem51. The transparent disc at the top is a 'mystery' rotor.

Owing to the design of the movement, which minimises human intervention during assembly (it lacks a regulator, and timekeeping adjustments are made using lasers in the factory), concerns have arisen regarding its serviceability. These concerns are entirely valid. That’s because when Swatch released its mechanical watches with the Sistem51, the movement was hermetically sealed within the plastic case, making it non-removable, essentially rendering the watch disposable.

However, it’s worth noting that since the release of the metal-case version of the Sistem51 watches in 2016, Swatch has announced updates to make the watches repairable. An indicator of this improved serviceability is the presence of a removable case back, which is also featured in the latest Scuba Fifty Fathoms, marking a departure from the non-reversible seal found in the earliest plastic models.

We reached out to Swatch and received confirmation that the case back of the Scuba Fifty Fathoms is indeed removable, and the movement will be entirely replaced. This process is similar to how Moser replaces its modular escapement during service, with the distinction that here, the entire movement is swapped. The good news is that you no longer have to discard the entire watch.

In short, the movement inside the Scuba Fifty Fathoms watch is simple and industrial. Even its winding rotor is made of plastic, which helps keep its price affordable. While it may not meet the high standards for quality and materials seen in traditional Swiss movements (you might find it feels a bit finicky when adjusting), it scores well in terms of practical features like a 90-hour running time and resistance to magnetic fields. Most importantly, it’s not a watch you have to throw away after use, providing peace of mind for maintenance and, to some extent, sustainability.

The notches on the case back indicate that it can be removed

2. The case is not true plastic per se

When it comes to sustainability, another debate centres around the case material, commonly believed to be plastic. However, according to Swatch, the case is constructed from Bioceramic, but what exactly is Bioceramic?

According to Swatch, Bioceramic is a composite material made up of both ceramic and plastic components. Despite its appearance and tactile sensation resembling plastic rather than ceramic (which is unfortunate), it doesn’t fall under the conventional category of plastics. Its exact composition comprises two-thirds ceramic material and one-third bio-sourced plastic, which is notably different from the typical petrochemical-based plastics. Instead, it is derived from castor plant oil, a renewable and plant-based resource.

The side of the Scuba Fifty Fathoms Indian Ocean's case

On the topic of bio-sourced materials, it’s worth mentioning that the front crystal of the watch is also bio-sourced. While Swatch claims that the “glass” is made of bio-sourced material, they haven’t specified the exact material. In all likelihood, the front crystal is made from bio-sourced plastic, as traditional glass primarily consists of minerals like silica, which are not organic or biological in nature. In contrast, Swatch has mentioned that the crystal on the back is made of sapphire.

The bezel insert, which appears to be shiny, is of unknown composition; it could be made of plastic or sapphire. Regardless, it does have a beautiful sheen that improves the appearance and tactile quality. In fact, the sheen resembles the high-quality look of the sapphire bezel on the Fifty Fathoms made by Blancpain. It’s worth noting that this detail easily sets the Scuba Fifty Fathoms apart from the MoonSwatch, which had a somewhat basic appearance with its matte bezel that resembled a sticker.

One last note regarding the material is about the strap, which is made of recycled fish nets removed from the sea. While sustainability is a highlight of the strap, it also scores in terms of appearance and feel. The colour is nicely done, and, most importantly, it offers a more supple and comfortable feel compared to the earlier MoonSwatch strap.

Recycled strap with Bioceramic buckle

3. It’s ready for underwater activities

It’s now clear that the Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms harks back to the history of dive watchmaking, in fact, to its origins, as the Fifty Fathoms was one of the earliest dive watches ever made when it debuted in 1953.

However, the colourful appearance of the Swatch version has somewhat belied its technical capabilities for underwater use. In all honesty, it’s not as capable as other modern dive watches, but it does capture the original spirit of the Fifty Fathoms.

Similar to the original model from 1953, the Scuba Fifty Fathoms boasts a water resistance rating of 91 metres, equivalent to 50 fathoms. This level of water resistance surpasses the typical Swatch watches, which are often only splash-resistant. As a result, the Scuba Fifty Fathoms is well-suited for various water-related activities. However, it’s important to note that it is not ISO-rated for diving, which requires a minimum water resistance rating of 100 metres, among other criteria.

Works fine up to 91 metres underwater

Another noteworthy feature is the bezel, which quite literally shines. The scale on the bezel insert is painted with luminescent material and topped with clear plastic or crystal, allowing it to glow in low-light conditions, a feature that determines whether a dive watch is useful in dark environments. The bezel rotates in a single direction to prevent timing errors underwater and features sixty distinct clicks.

Lastly, the Scuba Fifty Fathoms comes equipped with drilled lugs. In theory, these holes facilitate easier access to and removal of the pins that secure the strap, thus simplifying the strap-changing process. However, it’s important to note that the spring bars on the Scuba Fifty Fathoms are secured with hex screws, a feature borrowed from the original Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, which adds an extra layer of security to the strap.

Fully "lumed"

Final thoughts

The Scuba Fifty Fathoms isn’t meant to compete with the original Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, a timepiece with a seven-decade history. Instead, it’s designed to be a playful and enjoyable companion to the classic. Consequently, it’s more accessible than the Fifty Fathoms, both in terms of price (though not as much when compared to other mechanical Swatches) and size.

For those who are worried about how these collaborations might impact Blancpain’s brand image, here’s another way to look at it: Blancpain could simply be sharing its design with brands that can reach a wider audience, similar to how famous artists allow luxury brands to reproduce their paintings on scarves (which can be framed and displayed like artwork).

The Scuba isn’t intended to be a mere copy or a more affordable alternative just because it’s different. It doesn’t replace the Fifty Fathoms; they each have their own unique styles, sizes, materials, construction, and finishes. Considering the price and historical significance of the Fifty Fathoms, it’s unlikely to be negatively affected by these playful Swatch tributes. However, only time will tell if these collaborations will age gracefully.

Blancpain x Swatch Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms Specs and Price

Movement: Sistem51; automatic; 90 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date (except for the Arctic Ocean and Antarctic Ocean versions)
Case: 42.3 mm; Bioceramic; water resistant to 91m
Strap: NATO strap
Price: USD 400
Limited edition: No

Update September 26, 2023: Some sources suggest that the case back is glued to the case middle and cannot be removed. We have reached out to Swatch for comments and will provide updates as soon as we receive more information.

Update October 5, 2023: We have received confirmation from Swatch that the case back is indeed removable, as initially stated in the article. Furthermore, Swatch has clarified that the movement will be replaced, rather than repaired.

Correction October 5, 2023: The ISO 6425:2018 diver’s watch certification requires a water resistance of at least 100 meters, and not 200 meters, as originally stated in the article.

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Movement	Self-winding caliber SW200-1b; 41-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes and seconds
Case	41.5mm; 316 steel with Cerulean blue stonewashed Cerakote coating, matte vintage navy aluminium bezel insert; water resistant to 300m
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The post Beyond the Surface: Three Intriguing Facts About Swatch x Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms appeared first on Revolution Watch.

The New Tudor Pelagos FXD — in Honor of the US Navy

Revolution — Fri, 15 Sep 2023 10:34:21 +0000

The New Tudor Pelagos FXD — in Honor of the US Navy

Tudor pays homage to its dive watch history with the new Pelagos FXD.

News

By Revolution

Sep 15, 2023

The story begins in the mid-50s when Tudor’s diving watches started undergoing rigorous tests by the US Navy. By 1958, they were officially adopted for use by Navy divers.

A Tribute to the US Navy: The Pelagos FXD

This modern Mil-Sub (Military Submariner) seamlessly combines elements from historic Tudor diving watches with modern engineering. With a 42mm titanium case, the new Pelagos FXD features a 60-notch rotating bezel with luminescent material-filled ceramic inserts, adhering to ISO standards for diver’s watches. Its aesthetics pay homage to Tudor’s late 60s Oyster Prince Submariner; the iconic “Snowflake” hands and square hour markers are a nod to this heritage.

The “FXD” in its name stands for “FiXeD strap bars”, and it’s a feature that makes total sense for a NATO-strapping timepiece as such. Structurally, spring bars would be the weakest links for tool watches — break it, and your strap comes off.

Tudor Pelagos FXD with a fabric strap
Tudor Pelagos FXD with a rubber strap

Historically, US Navy divers preferred fabric straps for their Tudor watches. This flagship configuration includes a one-piece green fabric strap with a red central thread and a self-gripping fastening system. A black embossed fabric-motif one-piece rubber strap provides a contemporary alternative.

Tudor’s Naval History

From SEAL teams to UDTs, Tudor watches accompanied Navy personnel on missions of all kinds. These watches even played a role in underwater submarine maintenance and pioneering underwater technologies worldwide.

The new Tudor Pelagos FXD and a Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner issued to the US Navy

Interestingly, Tudor watches issued by the US Navy rarely bore specific markings, making it a challenge for today’s watch enthusiasts to trace their military origins. Official records, however, confirm that large quantities of Tudor watches were delivered to the Navy over several decades.

Manufacture Calibre MT5602

The Manufacture Calibre MT5602 drives the hours, minutes, and seconds functions. Its rotor in tungsten monobloc is openwork and satin-brushed, while bridges and main plates feature sand-blasted and polished surfaces.

It comes with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, and like all of its modern in-house movements, it’s COSC-certified.

Tech Specs: Tudor Pelagos FXD

Reference: 25717N
Movement: Manufacture Calibre MT5602; 70-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours and minutes; Central seconds; uni-directional rotating bezel with 60-minute diving scale
Case: 42mm; Titanium; Water-resistant to 200m (660 ft)
Dial: Matt black; Grade X1 Super-LumiNova®
Strap: Fabric strap with self-gripping fastening system (forest green with red central thread); Additional black rubber strap with woven motif and titanium pin buckle
Price: S$5,850

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Strap	Ballistic gray rubber; titanium folding clasp

The post The New Tudor Pelagos FXD — in Honor of the US Navy appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Legendary Devil Diver Reinvented in Bulova’s Oceanographer GMT Collection

Bhanu Chopra — Fri, 15 Sep 2023 07:00:15 +0000

Legendary Devil Diver Reinvented in Bulova’s Oceanographer GMT Collection

News

By Bhanu Chopra

Sep 15, 2023

With a legacy dating back to 1875, Bulova has consistently delivered exceptional timepieces that combine classic elegance with cutting-edge technology. The Bulova Oceanographer GMT pays tribute to the brand’s illustrious past while embracing the demands of the modern traveler. In this article, we will delve into the fascinating world of the Bulova Oceanographer, exploring its historical significance, remarkable features, and captivating design.

The Birth of the Devil Diver

To truly appreciate the Bulova Oceanographer GMT, we must first travel back in time to 1972 when Bulova introduced the original Oceanographer watch, affectionately known as the “Devil Diver.” This legendary timepiece was born out of Bulova’s commitment to supplying reliable, waterproof watches to the U.S. military. Designed specifically for diving expeditions, the Devil Diver quickly gained a reputation for its exceptional durability and functionality.

Bulova 1972 Oceanographer “Devil Diver

Bulova expanded the capabilities of its standard Compressor case by increasing its depth rating to 666 feet, providing a significant level of confidence for divers, whether for recreational or professional purposes. The Devil Diver earned its moniker due to its enhanced 666-foot depth rating, meeting ISO standards for water resistance up to 200 meters. Who needs a conventional 200m standard when you can have a devilish depth rating?

This initial Devil Diver marked the beginning of a successful line of Bulova dive watches that remained in production until the late 1970s. Bulova fitted their in-house 11 BLACD movement the 60’s-70’s Oceanographers before the mechanical movement got replaced by more precise tuning fork movements, that became synonymous with the brand.

Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver Orange Dial. Image Credit: ATOM_MOORE

The vintage Oceanographers have become highly sought after by collectors and are becoming increasingly rare to find in a good condition. In 2018, Bulova reintroduced this iconic dive watch, faithfully recreating it to match the specifications of the 1972 Oceanographer. The Archive Series 666 Devil Diver features an eye-catching orange dial and was released as a limited edition of 666 pieces.

A Vintage-Inspired GMT

The new Bulova Oceanographer GMT collection draws inspiration from the iconic Devil Diver, infusing it with contemporary elements to create a functional timepiece for travelers. With a 41mm stainless steel case, the new collection remains faithful to the original size, albeit with a contemporary Ion plating (IP) on the case. The screw-down crown facilitates water resistance rating of 200m, symbolized by the iconic “666 feet” displayed on the dial. The double-domed box sapphire crystal, adorned with an anti-reflective coating, ensures optimal visibility and protection against scratches. Whether you’re a seasoned globetrotter or simply someone who appreciates the convenience of dual time functionality, the Oceanographer GMT offers a seamless and accurate solution.

At the heart of these watches lies the 9075 Miyota automatic movement, which enables the tracking of a second time zone with ease. The Miyota caliber 9075 is a cost-effective automatic GMT movement that belongs to the 9 series of Miyota calibers, which the manufacturer classifies as “Premium Automatic” movements. This caliber stands out as it is what is often called a ‘true’ GMT movement, which allows the wearer to change the local hour hand in one-hour increments.

The “Root Beer” Edition

97B215 Automatic Oceanographer Devil Diver GMT

The first variant, aptly named the “root beer,” exudes a timeless charm with its bi-directional rotating bezel in classic brown and black tones. The IP plated rose gold tone stainless steel case and bracelet further enhance its luxurious appeal. This warm and rich color palette is perfect for those who appreciate a vintage aesthetic with a touch of modern sophistication.

The “Lume” Watch

98B407 Automatic Oceanographer Devil Diver GMT

For those who prefer a more contemporary and monochrome look, the “lume” edition is a true standout. Featuring a gunmetal IP plated case and bezel, this watch exudes a striking high-contrast aesthetic. The unidirectional elapsed time indication and grey silicone textured strap perfectly complement the full luminous white dial, creating a visually captivating timepiece that demands attention.

The “Pepsi” Edition

96B405 Automatic Oceanographer Devil Diver GMT

Last but certainly not least, the “Pepsi” version pays homage to the timeless red and blue hues typically associated with dive watches. Presented in a stainless steel case, this watch features a bi-directional rotating bezel with a 24-hour GMT indication, allowing you to effortlessly keep track of time in two different time zones. The matching bracelet adds a touch of refinement to this sporty yet sophisticated timepiece.

With the introduction of the Oceanographer GMT watches, Bulova once again proves its ability to combine heritage and innovation, delivering timepieces that not only celebrate the past but also embrace the future. Dedicated to preserving the iconic legacy of the Oceanographer watch, Bulova’s Oceanographer GMT watches offer a significant upgrade to the collection, catering to the demands of the modern world.

The Bulova Oceanographer GMT watches will set you back somewhere between $1,295 and $1,395. But hey, can you really put a price on feeling like a globetrotting, devil-diving, time zone-tracking rockstar? I didn’t think so. So, get ready to dive into some serious watch envy. The collection will be exclusively available for purchase at Bulova.com.

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Movement	Self-winding caliber BR.CAL-301; 42-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	41mm; CuAI7Si2 bronze; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices
Strap	Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post Legendary Devil Diver Reinvented in Bulova’s Oceanographer GMT Collection appeared first on Revolution Watch.

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From Military Legacy to Modern Luxury: The Ascendant Identity of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

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