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The Eagle has Landed: Planet Omega Touches Down in New York City

Rob Nudds — Mon, 23 Oct 2023 09:00:40 +0000

The Eagle has Landed: Planet Omega Touches Down in New York City

Omega has had more than its fair share of legends of the wrist. Books and articles go some way to describing these hallowed timepieces’ importance, but nothing beats being in the presence of greatness. Now, thanks to Planet Omega, you can pay them a visit in New York City.

News

By Rob Nudds

Oct 23, 2023

Between November 9th and 19th, you’ll be able to enjoy Omega’s story in person. Located at the Chelsea Factory, NYC, the Planet Omega pop-up offers an immersive experience of the brand and its history. For even passing fans, the opportunity to see some of the icons of watchmaking should not be missed. Watches worn by luminaries such as Elvis Presley and JFK will be on display, as well as timepieces that changed the industry itself.

Key moments in Omega’s story will anchor the exhibition, with the brand’s extensive relationship with the Olympic Games, the part it played in the Space Race, its role in deep-sea exploration, and its presence on screen (specifically the wrist of a certain secret agent) the defining pivot points of the narrative.

During 1932 LA Olympics, a timing board with eight Omega split-seconds pocket chronographs that was used to time track & field events

Eyes on the prize…

Since establishing itself as a leader in the field of sports timekeeping, Omega has continued to support and sponsor sporting events and athletes around the world. With ambassadors such as “the Baltimore Bullet”, 23-time gold medalist Michael Phelps, and seven-time champion and track legend Allyson Felix, Omega has shown its eye for attaching itself to talent. As such, you can expect to see the inspiring stories of these sporting heroes touched upon at Planet Omega.

Beyond the individual partnerships, however, Omega concerns itself with major sporting events such as the America’s Cup. Special editions commemorating the brand’s connection to the most prestigious sailing competition in the world are numerous enough to form the basis of a collection themselves, with some classic models within their ranks. The most recent homage to New Zealand’s current champions (Emirates Team New Zealand) is one for the ages, with its unusual black ceramic case paired with electric turquoise highlights. It showcases Omega’s willingness to diversify and evolve its product offering in the face of collaboration and change, something the Planet Omega exhibition will focus on extensively.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean ETNZ Deep Black

And while watches like the Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black Emirates Team New Zealand Edition are certainly geared to the future, Omega has not forgotten the importance of its past (especially not when it comes to sport).

In fact, one of the original split-seconds chronographs used to time races at the Olympic Games in 1932 will be present and is referenced as the inspiration for Omega’s new Chrono Chime caliber — the most complex movement ever made by the brand.

Olympic 1932 Chrono Chime

Eyes on the stars…

But while international sport can indeed break down barriers between countries and cultures, little compares to the barriers broken by the Apollo missions that sent humankind to the moon.

Since its NASA qualification for manned spaceflight in 1965, Omega has had a front-row seat for this chapter of history. And the relationship between the fabled Swiss brand and astronauts goes back even further than that.

NASA’s test engineer, Jim Ragan putting the Speedmaster through its paces at NASA

In 1962 when Wally Schirra wore his own, privately purchased CK2998 Speedy on board Mercury-Atlas 8 mission, it became the first Omega worn in Space. This legendary model, along with many others, will be on display in New York for this ten-day period.

What lies beneath…

But perhaps the most timely display of all is the one that focuses on Omega’s history beneath the waves. This year, 2023, sees the 70th anniversary of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Widely regarded as the first modern dive watch, the Fifty Fathoms is Blancpain’s most famous model. As a fellow member of the Swatch Group, Blancpain has also buddied up with Swatch (as Omega did with the Moonswatch) to produce a BIOCERAMIC version of its undisputed icon.

Omega X Swatch Mission to the Moon

However, while there is a strong case to be made for Blancpain having debuted the first commercially available modern dive watch, Omega was many years ahead of the curve when it came to debuting the first watch capable of withstanding submersion to serious depths.

Following Rolex’s 1926 release of the Oyster case (the world’s first water-resistant wristwatch), Omega released the Marine in 1932. Where this differed from the Oyster (aside from its novel “case within a case” construction), was the depth to which it claimed resistance.

The Omega Marine, 1932

By modern standards, the early Oyster case, while revolutionary in itself, was not suitable for diving. The Marine, meanwhile, was tested at the bottom of Lake Léman in Geneva at a depth of 73 meters. Five years after the first test (which had been conducted in 1936), the watch was tested under strict laboratory conditions and was found to be waterproof all the way down to 135 meters. This, without much doubt, made it the first actual divers’ watch, and a milestone for the watchmaking industry in general.

The exhibition also encompasses Omega’s modern-day efforts to stay on top in the diving game, with a display dedicated to the recent Seamaster “Ultra Deep” watches, released in 2019. These models continue the Marine’s esteemed legacy having been tested at the deepest point ever recorded at the bottom of the ocean (in the Mariana Trench). Remarkably, the Omega Ultra Deep series is water resistant to a staggering 6,000 meters (or 20,000 ft).

The Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep 6000 m with a 45.5 mm case

From the shadows to the silver screen

And lastly, Planet Omega has a section honoring the world’s most famous spy, James Bond. Since 1995’s Goldeneye, the MI6 sleuth has worn an Omega. In Daniel Craig’s recently concluded tenure as the beloved heartthrob-come-hitman, the screen time afforded to each Omega model increased, with the Seamaster 300 variant designed for Spectre playing an active role in the plot (and ultimately being responsible for Blofeld’s disfiguration — a standout moment in the self-contained series of five films).

Daniel Craig as Bond in the 2006 film, Casino Royale wearing the Seamaster 300m in his Brioni tuxedo (Image: omegawatches.com)

Since the launch of No Time To Die, Omega has continued to produce anniversary specials in the James Bond canon, much to the delight of brand and Bond collectors alike.

Whatever era of production of milestone moment appeals to you most, it is likely Planet Omega has you covered. If you happen to be in the area (or feel like making a special trip), the Planet OMEGA exhibition will run from November 9th to 19th at the Chelsea Factory, 547 W 26th Street. Doors will open between 11 am to 7 pm every day throughout.

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FROM THE SHOP

Unimatic

Unimatic x Revolution U1 Milsub "Blue"

$1,220.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber SW200-1b; 41-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes and seconds
Case	41.5mm; 316 steel with Cerulean blue stonewashed Cerakote coating, matte vintage navy aluminium bezel insert; water resistant to 300m
Dial	Matte vintage navy; hour markers outlined in Super-LumiNova
Strap	Vintage navy TPU-coated nylon; additional vintage navy nylon with fabric keepers
Limited Edition	Limited Edition of 200 pieces

The post The Eagle has Landed: Planet Omega Touches Down in New York City appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Time to Shine: Celeb Watch Roundup from Exhilarating Fashion Month

Bhanu Chopra — Thu, 19 Oct 2023 04:42:55 +0000

Time to Shine: Celeb Watch Roundup from Exhilarating Fashion Month

Dazzling wrists on the red carpet.

News

By Bhanu Chopra

Oct 19, 2023

We look back at the glamorous world of fashion month, where style and sophistication collided on the runway and the streets alike. The electrifying fashion week events that make up “fashion month”, held in renowned fashion capitals such as New York, London, Milan, and Paris, serve as a global platform for designers to unveil their latest creations, setting trends for the seasons to come.

Fashion month wouldn’t be the spectacle it is without its fair share of celebrity sparkle from the fit to the wrist. Celebrities are often seen donning watches from renowned luxury brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Cartier. These brands are synonymous with quality, precision, and timeless elegance, making them highly sought-after by celebrities who aim to exude sophistication and refinement.

But the watch models of sought-after celebrity-owned watches need not be out of reach – with eBay’s depth and breadth of inventory, you can find any watch you are looking for, even those worthy of an A-list wrist. We selected our favorite standout styles from recent New York, London, Milan, and Paris Fashion Week highlighting the most striking watches spotted on celebrity wrists, all available on eBay and backed by its Authenticity Guarantee service.

Charlize Theron at New York Fashion Week

Charlize Theron, the renowned Hollywood actress and fashion icon, made a striking appearance during New York Fashion Week as she graced the front of all-new Breitling Boutique in the trendy Meatpacking District. The actress effortlessly emanated elegance and style, perfectly complementing the sophisticated atmosphere of the event.

Charlize Theron (Image: Breitling)

Charlize Theron’s choice of timepiece for the occasion was none other than the exquisite Navitimer Automatic 36 with a stunning mother-of-pearl dial. The 36-mm Navitimer features the beaded bezel and iconic circular slide rule that gives the Navitimer its unmistakable appearance. Pops of pastel, mother of pearl, and traceable precious materials combined with subtle refinements add versatile elegance to the legendary navigational watch.

As the ambassador for Breitling, Charlize Theron is no stranger to the world of luxury watches. Her choice to wear the Navitimer Automatic 36 demonstrates her appreciation for craftsmanship and precision. The watch features a self-winding mechanical movement, ensuring accurate timekeeping with each passing second. Its modest size of 36mm makes it an ideal choice for those who value both style and comfort.

Charlize Theron’s choice to wear the Navitimer Automatic 36 with a mother-of-pearl dial showcased her sophisticated style and appreciation for timeless luxury. As an actress and fashion icon, Theron effortlessly embodies the essence of the Breitling brand, reflecting the impeccable craftsmanship and refined elegance that has become synonymous with their timepieces. While a 36-mm Navitimer is a very recent release and not widely available, you can shop a similar look on eBay – the 35-mm Navitimer – featuring MOP dial and sparkling diamond markers.

Stormzy at London Fashion Week

During the fashion week in London, celebrities attended Vogue World event, showcasing some of the most refreshing and stylish menswear looks in recent memory. One standout attendee was British rapper Stormzy, whose impeccable sense of style was evident from his wrist game alone.

Stormzy (Image: Gettyimage)

Appearing on the red carpet at London’s Theatre Royal Drury Lane, the 30-year-old performer donned a regal Ferragamo tuxedo and a collarless blazer with a striking white-satin sash that elegantly draped over his chest and shoulder. To complete the look, Stormzy opted for a pair of black loafers and minimalistic rings. However, it was his choice of timepiece that truly caught the eye – a Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar.

This particular model, known as Ref. 5740/1G, features a 40 mm white gold case and a mesmerizing blue sunburst dial that provided a stunning contrast against Stormzy’s dark tailoring. The dial is adorned with luminescent-coated gold hour markers, as well as various displays for day, date, month, leap year, and 24-hour time. One of the most captivating elements of the watch is its starry moonphase indicator, which adds a touch of sophistication and luxury befitting a gathering of A-list celebrities and industry heavyweights.

Stormzy’s appearance at the Vogue World event, adorned with his exquisite Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar, undoubtedly solidified his status as a true fashion icon. His attention to detail and sophisticated choice of accessories serves as an inspiration to those seeking to elevate their own style game and leave a lasting impression in the world of fashion.

You can pick up a brand new Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740/1G with box and papers from eBay and gain some serious watch cred.

Bad Bunny at Milan Fashion Week

Bad Bunny, the multi-talented artist, who effortlessly combines singing, songwriting, rapping, and producing, has a style all his own and isn’t afraid to break away from the mainstream trends. With an enviable collection Bad Bunny’s watches are as unique and vibrant as his music.

Bad Bunny (Image: Gettyimage)

During Milan fashion week, Bad Bunny turned heads with an 18K yellow gold Cartier Santos “Carrée” peeking out from under his cuff. This particular model, known as the reference 829600, is a true gem from the mid-1980s. Its completely iced-out design, featuring a factory pavé diamond-set dial, a diamond-set bezel, and a stunning yellow gold bracelet with diamond-set screws, is nothing short of dazzling. Paired with a casual ensemble of jeans, a simple white dress shirt, and a knitted beanie, the watch exudes an ’80s coolness.

Originally reintroduced as the Cartier de Santos in stainless steel in 1978, this watch was later known as the Santos Carrée, owing to its square shape. It quickly gained popularity and was released in various editions, including two-tone, precious metals, and the diamond-studded version favored by Bad Bunny. The Santos Carrée, famously worn by Michael Douglas as Gordon Gekko in Wall Street, has become synonymous with power and wealth, a symbol that it continues to embody today, albeit to a lesser extent due to the Tank’s ubiquity. Nevertheless, the sight of an iced-out Santos Carrée on Bad Bunny’s wrist serves as a firm reminder of the enduring appeal and undeniable coolness of this iconic Cartier watch.

Bad Bunny may have a rare blinged-out vintage Santos Carrée, but you can shop the look with a sweet two-tone Santos Carrée that is modestly sized, for a fraction of the price of the iced-out Santos on eBay.

Jennifer Lawrence at Paris Fashion Week

The No Hard Feelings star, Jennifer Lawrence, commanded attention as she joined the A-listers seated front-row at Dior’s Spring/Summer 2024 runway show. Despite the flashy occasion, Lawrence maintained her signature minimalist style, delivering a major autumn fashion statement. Her outfit choice consisted of a sweeping high-rise maxi skirt crafted from inky-black velvet. This elegant piece showcased several subtle yet sophisticated details, including delicate pleats pinned across the waist and spacious pockets. For the top, Lawrence opted for a crisp white button-down shirt, exuding effortless chic. Completing the ensemble, Lawrence chose classic black pumps, gold hoop earrings, and a silver Longines Dolce Vita watch.

Jennifer Lawrence (Image: Gettyimage)

Jennifer Lawrence has recently been appointed as the newest “Ambassador of Elegance” for Longines. Known for her impeccable sense of style, Lawrence’s collaboration with the prestigious brand is a natural fit. The watch that she proudly wears is an elegant rectangular-shaped timepiece, boasting a 23mm x 27mm steel case adorned with a diamond-decorated bezel.

The watch’s silver flinqué dial and high-precision Swiss quartz movement ensure both accuracy and sophistication. Longines has given special attention to the stainless-steel bracelet, which features 198 links cascading from a case framed by 38 radiant diamonds. With this latest partnership, Jennifer Lawrence continues to cement her status as a fashion icon and proves her ability to effortlessly embody elegance and luxury.

eBay has you covered if you want JLaw’s stylish Longines with an unworn Dolce Vita on steel bracelet, backed by its Authenticity Guarantee service.

Reference

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FROM THE SHOP

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Bell & Ross x Alessandro Palazzi x Revolution & The Rake Bellytanker Chronograph "Vesper"

$5,250.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber BR.CAL-301; 42-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	41mm; CuAI7Si2 bronze; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices
Strap	Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post Time to Shine: Celeb Watch Roundup from Exhilarating Fashion Month appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Are small dive watches the next big thing?

Lee Sheng — Fri, 13 Oct 2023 07:00:29 +0000

Are small dive watches the next big thing?

Exploring the resurgence of smaller dive watches.

News

By Lee Sheng

Oct 13, 2023

In recent years, something interesting has been happening in the world of watches – a renewed interest in smaller or midsize dive watches. This shift is embraced by both watchmakers and enthusiasts, signifying a departure from the era of unwieldy timepieces that burden the wrist. Today, the spotlight returns to dive watches that effortlessly combine comfort and style.

The rise of wrist-friendly options

The resurgence of smaller dive watches might seem like a sudden change, but this trend has been quietly developing over the past few years. It has led to a variety of small dive watch options in different price ranges that might have gone unnoticed. Let’s delve into the timeline of this evolving trend.

In 2017, Blancpain released a Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe with a 38 mm case. During that same year, Rado launched the Captain Cook with a case size of 37 mm. Seiko also introduced the “Mini Turtle,” and in the subsequent years, the Japanese brand has continued to release various dive watches under 40 mm, including vintage reissues of the “62MAS” and modern options such as the Prospex Solar.

In 2018, Oris unveiled the Divers Sixty-Five, which offered a 36 mm case option. Also in 2018, Tudor made its mark with the Black Bay 58, featuring a 39 mm case that took the industry by surprise. These examples serve to illustrate the growing availability of (and interest in) dive watches with smaller dimensions.

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five "Cotton Candy" with a 38 mm case

The trend of smaller dive watches has reached a significant point in 2023, creating excitement among classic dive watch enthusiasts. Tudor’s release of a 37 mm dive watch stands out as an unusual move. This is particularly noteworthy because the 39 mm Black Bay 58, introduced in 2018, was already considered small and highly popular due to its size. It’s remarkable that Tudor chose to go even smaller with a 37 mm model. Tudor’s decision could potentially mark a pivotal moment for smaller divers, given the brand’s prominence and popularity.

While the trend of smaller dive watches has made progress, the space is still dominated by plus-sized cases. Smaller, more wearable models remain a rarity – and many enthusiasts worldwide are still taking issue with the regular stream of larger releases, with the launch of a smaller dive watch being the exception, rather than the rule.

The Rado x The Rake & Revolution Captain Cook “Ghost Captain” with a 37.3 mm case

Why size matters

The dive watch, as we know it today with its rugged, unmistakable rotating bezel, is a specialized tool that emerged in the mid-20th century. Despite being a relatively recent innovation, dive watches have become synonymous with wristwatches. If you were to ask anyone to imagine a watch, the image of a dive watch – especially the Rolex Submariner – would likely come to mind, especially for newcomers.

As a watch enthusiast, there’s a range of things we look for when trying to find the perfect dive watch. Naturally, the first criterion is practicality, which includes factors such as water resistance, legibility, ease of operation, and other crucial details that can determine a dive watch’s success or failure.

The next aspect to consider is its look and feel. While we may take pride in owning an impressive and substantial piece of equipment (think Deepsea Challenge), it’s worth noting that we’re discussing luxury items here. This means that, for most people, the emotions they evoke – their aesthetics and tactile experience – often matter more than how they’ll perform at depth.

The Rolex Deepsea Challenge ref. 126067, a massive timepiece with a 50 mm case and a water resistance of 11,000 meters

However, for most watch buyers, appearance and feel are arguably the most critical factors to consider, especially since the majority of them aren’t divers. But what exactly gives a dive watch that perfect feel on the wrist?

Of course there’s no single factor: the curved domed crystal, the jet-black dial with prominent luminescent markers, the oversized crown, and robust lugs. These distinct elements come together to create what is instantly recognisable as a dive watch.

The original Rolex Submariner ref. 6204. Image by Antiquorum.

But there’s something simpler yet vital to discuss – one that plays a substantial role in shaping a dive watch’s overall appearance and tactile experience in contrast to the aforementioned details. Size.

Smaller dive watches tend to be more appealing, in a timeless, classic sense. Much like the ebb and flow of trends, dive watches have undergone a complete transformation in terms of size. Dive watches started small, grew to enormous sizes around the 2000s, and are now returning to more manageable dimensions. Of course, the 47 mm diver has its place, but it is a rare wrist that can actually manage to wear it.

The Royal Oak Offshore Revolution Limited Edition

Why did small dive watches fall out of fashion?

The first Rolex dive watch to bear the iconic label “Submariner” on the dial was the ref. 6204, introduced in 1953, and it had a diameter of 37 mm. The inaugural Tudor Submariner, the ref. 7922 from 1954, shared the same 37 mm size. The original Omega Seamaster 300 from 1957 measured 39 mm.

One of the larger dive watches of that era was the Fifty Fathoms, which debuted at a substantial 41 mm width in 1953. It was so big that Blancpain swiftly responded with the Bathyscaphe model, offering case sizes as small as 34.5 mm, like the one pictured below from 1956.

The 34.5 mm Blancpain Bathyscaphe from circa 1956. Image by Wind Vintage.

However, dive watches eventually departed from these sizes, and the standard settled around 40 mm. By the end of the 1950s, Rolex launched its 40 mm Submariner, and for many years, dive watches under 40 mm became uncommon. When brands introduced new models or updated versions, they tended to be equal to or larger than 40 mm. For instance, when Omega introduced its first-generation Seamaster Professional 300m in 1993, it measured 41 mm in width.

So, why did smaller-sized dive watches lose favor? Why were the 36 mm and 39 mm Submariners discontinued in the 1990s? Why was the 36 mm Seamaster 300 Professional discontinued in 2018? Why did brands eventually phase out small dive watches?

First and foremost, across the board, watches increased in size as trends shifted from classical to contemporary. The once-fashionable 33 mm gentlemen’s watches gradually lost their appeal. Consequently, dive watches, being watches after all, also embraced the trend and grew in size.

Second, and perhaps even more crucially, there was a massive surge in the popularity of large, attention-grabbing watches in the 1990s and 2000s. This was the era when timepieces like the Royal Oak Offshore and Big Bang made their mark. Despite their substantial size, they became incredibly fashionable and cool, capturing the attention of collectors and fueling the demand for larger watches. The commercial success of these larger-than-life watches encouraged other manufacturers to follow suit and create larger timepieces.

A sleek Hublot Big Bang Integral entirely made from light blue ceramic

Why have small dive watches made a comeback?

When exploring the internet for new watch releases, a consistent trend emerges: comments expressing disappointment with slightly oversized timepieces. Collectors and enthusiasts frequently yearn for smaller versions. So, what’s fueling this renewed interest in smaller dive watches? Let’s delve into the perspectives of both watchmakers and enthusiasts.

Collector’s perspectives

To begin, we’ll consider the viewpoint of watch enthusiasts. There are four compelling reasons why collectors are increasingly drawn to smaller watches.

First and foremost, smaller watches evoke a strong feeling of nostalgia. It feels warm, classy, and romantic, in contrast to bulkier modern watches. People long for this retro sensibility and treasure watches that harken back to a bygone era.

Second, contemporary fashion trends embrace the blending of formal and casual styles, especially after the pandemic. This makes it common and acceptable to wear dive watches in everyday life and various occasions. Smaller dive watches offer a versatile and attractive option that complements different styles, unlike their larger counterparts, which might appear unwieldy with formal attire.

The Canadian Navy-issued Tudor Submariner Ref. 9401/0

Third, the growing interest among women in dive watches contributes to the resurgence of interest in mid-sized models.

Finally, and most importantly, smaller watches simply look better on the wrist. According to a survey conducted by watch collector Mark Cho on wrist sizes, the majority of respondents perceived their wrist size as below average or small, creating a distribution diagram skewed towards the left. However, in reality, their wrist sizes follow a normal curve. Mr. Cho explains that people may perceive the watches available on the market as designed for those with average wrist sizes. But sometimes these watches are too big for most people. Collectors might feel like their wrists are smaller than they really are, even though that might not be true.

The Tudor Black Bay 54 worn with formal business attire

Watchmaker’s perspectives

Now, let’s consider the perspectives of watchmakers – why are brands interested in making smaller dive watches?

Well, watch brands are in the business of selling watches, first and foremost. The market always wants something new and exciting, whether it’s fresh ideas or bringing back old ones. After the trend for larger watches, watchmakers may feel the need to introduce smaller items to inject excitement into the market. By offering a smaller size, they can get the attention of collectors and enthusiasts who want something different.

The Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep 6000 m with a 45.5 mm case

Third, the resurgence of interest in vintage watches has fostered a fascination with vintage-inspired modern watches. To authentically capture the nostalgic appeal, watchmakers must strike the right proportions in the watch case. Creating smaller dive watches is a quick way for brands to evoke the old-school charm and the sentiments of the past.

Lastly, it’s essential for brands to diversify their offerings with multiple sizes for the same model. This allows watchmakers to cater to different markets without the need for extensive redesigning, reducing production costs, and enhancing the appeal of their timepieces.

Are smaller sizes the future of dive watches?

The resurgence of smaller dive watches symbolizes a return to simplicity and prompts us to reconsider our values. It’s a reminder that not everything needs to be oversized and conspicuous to make a statement. In an era where bigger is often equated with better, these modestly sized dive watches underline that true luxury lies in the quiet details, in the precision of execution, and in the emotional connection a timepiece can create.

In the end, the journey of these smaller dive watches reflects the cyclical nature of trends, where the past influences the present, and the present shapes the future. In one way or another, it serves as a testament to the enduring allure of watches that resonate with our hearts and wrists, regardless of their size. As we continue to explore the evolving landscape of watchmaking, one thing remains clear – the timeless charm of smaller dive watches will always find its place in the ever-turning wheel of fashion and taste.

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FROM THE SHOP

Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross x Alessandro Palazzi x Revolution & The Rake Bellytanker Chronograph "Vesper"

$5,250.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber BR.CAL-301; 42-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	41mm; CuAI7Si2 bronze; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices
Strap	Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post Are small dive watches the next big thing? appeared first on Revolution Watch.

The NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 39 in new autumnal tones

Rob Nudds — Fri, 06 Oct 2023 04:11:58 +0000

The NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 39 in new autumnal tones

A new size and three gorgeous new dials.

News

By Rob Nudds

Oct 6, 2023

There are many stages of note during the developmental lifecycle of a brand and its models. More than most manufactures, NOMOS Glashütte has been through the major ones in full view of a never-more discerning public thanks to it not having history to hide behind. Founded in 1990 with its first watches hitting the shelves in 1992, the fact that just thirty-one years later the modern success story of former East Germany’s watchmaking mecca is now a fully-fledged manufacture producing multiple calibers and fitting them to multiple unique product lines almost beggars’ belief.

But the way in which NOMOS has gone about its rapid rise to independence sheds some light on how it was, against all odds, possible.

Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 39

Initial thoughts

The brand’s success can be attributed to its founder, Roland Schwertner’s, frequently uttered motto that, after three years working for the brand as one of its international Sales Execs, I still have ringing in my ears.

“Fleißig und besheiden,” Roland would say. It’s a simple saying. Good advice for life, too. Translated, it means “hardworking and humble.” That’s what we were all to be because that is exactly what the products themselves were. We were extensions of them or they were the same of us. Either way. It didn’t matter. And that was the point. Everything about the company was knitted together from the get-go. There was no wild speculation, no mad marketing endeavors, no bank-balance-bazookering partnerships with Hollywood’s flavor of the week. Everything with slow and deliberate and masterfully within itself.

Roland Schwertner, founder of NOMOS Glashütte

It’s staggering now to think how little experience Schwertner actually had in brand building because he executed a jaw-dropping ascension from absolutely nothing to absolutely something with barely a single misstep. There is always the argument that the brand could have done even more under different leadership, but the problem when it comes to making that argument is, while it is certainly plausible, Schwertner simply hasn’t made any of the major mistakes one would normally expect to see from an ambitious emerging brand.

Throughout his time at the top of NOMOS, he has, on occasion, bewildered colleagues with his ability to ignore trends and, instead, remain laser-focused on a plan that, oftentimes, is clear to no one but himself. And yet, he continues to be right (or at least right enough) to ensure NOMOS never veers from the path he has painstakingly laid for it. These latest models prove that however much longer it might take to get where the brand needs to go than might be absolutely necessary, when it reaches its destination, the payoff is huge.

Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 39, Ref. 761 (Ember)

The Club Sport range needed this diameter. While 39.5 mm may not seem like the most commercial of sizes — for most brands it would be regarded as a little on the small side — for NOMOS, it is the absolute sweet spot for wearers used to donning 41–43 mm timepieces, given how the watches’s thinness causes them to wear a little on the large side. Previously, the Club Sport sub-family had been available in 37 and 42 mm diameters and the five-millimeter gap between the two was clearly too glaring to leave unaddressed.

What we think

The 200-meter water resistance continues to put rival models of similar dimensions to shame while the abundance of luminous material applied to the Club Sport dials is a marked improvement on every other attempt at low-light legibility the brand has ever made. Although the now-extinct Glühwürmchen series is still my personal favorite foray into the shadows, the brand learned from its functional shortcomings and pivoted in a most unexpected way.

Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 39, Ref. 763 (Smoke)

On the Club Sport dials, lume is not just applied to a flat surface. Instead, the numerals are first engraved into the dial so there to make space for much more luminous compound without it disrupting the sleek appearance of the dial’s surface. Of all the improvements NOMOS has made to its watches over the years, this is probably the one that surprised me the most. I never expected the brand would listen to the market in such a clear and obvious way, but perhaps it is telling how long NOMOS resisted levering lume into models that had no aesthetic need for it and waited to deploy this new technique on the range that, by its nature, required the upgrade. After all, whatever the brand does, if form cannot be said to follow function, it wouldn’t be able to look itself in the mirror.

Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 39, Ref. 759 (Tabac)

The tagline for this watch on the NOMOS Glashütte website is “Anyone who wears this watch will realize how much it had been needed.” I really appreciate that kind of confidence from a brand that is learning to lean into its widespread popularity, but also the veiled admission that NOMOS had been sitting on something it knew the market desperately required.

NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 39

Ever since the Rolex bubble left our stratosphere, there has been a cacophonic craving for something, anything, to fill the hole left by the Oyster Perpetual. A couple of release cycles ago, thanks to the OP line blowing up the internet with the green, red, yellow, blue, and pink dials, and NOMOS soon after releasing 36 and 38 mm versions of the Club Campus in a vivid fuchsia and a laid-back purple, watch lovers started to draw the line between the two families in a way that might have seemed farcical several years ago. All those 36/38 mm Club Campuses needed was a bracelet. If only NOMOS could produce a solid — it really didn’t need to be remarkable — bracelet for the Club collection it would simultaneously banish the old concerns that the Club’s lugs were overlong and also slot right in as a ready-to-wear Oyster Perpetual killer.

NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 39

The 37 mm Club Sport model from last year was a gargantuan step toward fulfilling that destiny; these three new references have seen that destiny fulfilled.

Keep an eye on this platform next year: if we don’t see some summer shades to match these autumnal tones, I’ll eat my hat.

Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 39, Ref. 763 (Smoke)

Tech Specs

Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 39

References: 759 (Tabac), 761 (Ember), 763 (Smoke)
Movement: DUW 3001
Functions: Hours, minutes, sub-seconds
Case: 39.5 mm x 8.5 mm 316L surgical grade stainless steel
Dials: Tabac (dark brown), ember (gold beige), and smoke (light gray)
Straps: Stainless steel bracelet with polished center-links and brushed outer-links
Price: USD 3,310

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FROM THE SHOP

Unimatic

Unimatic x Revolution U1 Milsub "Blue"

$1,220.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber SW200-1b; 41-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes and seconds
Case	41.5mm; 316 steel with Cerulean blue stonewashed Cerakote coating, matte vintage navy aluminium bezel insert; water resistant to 300m
Dial	Matte vintage navy; hour markers outlined in Super-LumiNova
Strap	Vintage navy TPU-coated nylon; additional vintage navy nylon with fabric keepers
Limited Edition	Limited Edition of 200 pieces

The post The NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 39 in new autumnal tones appeared first on Revolution Watch.

In Conversation with: Kenneth Kuan, founder of Delugs

Katherine Arteche — Wed, 04 Oct 2023 00:00:31 +0000

In Conversation with: Kenneth Kuan, founder of Delugs

Five years since their official launch, Delugs is on their way to going places. Kenneth Kuan, Founder of Delugs, talks to us about being a business owner, a watch collector, and tips on taking care of your strap game.

Interviews

By Katherine Arteche

Oct 4, 2023

It’s a classic question to every business idea: ‘What If?’ Delugs Founder Kenneth Kuan (better known to friends and fans as Ken), wondered, “What if I used my leather crafting expertise to create watch straps?” If you’re looking down at your watch now and have begun to scrutinize the mild frays of your cracked leather band, maybe it’s time to shop for a whole new wrist wardrobe.

Last month, Ken launched Delugs’ YouTube channel, with a reintroduction of the homegrown brand. Since 2018, the leather atelier is on their way to becoming a watch accessories enterprise, from launching a wide range of ready-to-wear pieces to honing their bespoke program. Looking ahead to 2023, Delugs plans to expand its rubber strap collection, offering regular straps and integrated options for various sports models.

Founder of Delugs, Kenneth Kuan. Image: Revolution ©

As we settled into our conversation at the Revolution Watch Bar, Ken whipped out various tools from a nondescript canvas bag that he used in his early leather crafting days – a skiving knife, picking iron, hole puncher, and a stitching pony, to name a few. With a sizable team that’s now under his employ and the use of more automated systems, the tools now serve as a humbling, and perhaps to an extent, sentimental, reminder as to how he started.

“My hope is that brands will see us more as partners,” said Ken. “My message to them is that I’m not your competitor.”

Image: Revolution ©

Among the workshop paraphernalia of old, he also pulled out a roll of custom dyed Himalayan alligator leather that stretched no longer than a meter in length. Taking several completed straps, he matched their grain to various areas of the alligator. The most favorable parts are the midsection, i.e. the belly and the flank. At least 10 straps can be extracted from this piece.

“Let’s be real, there’s a lot of parts of the leather that you can’t use,” said Ken, as we started to discuss sustainability practices at his workshop. “The parts are either scarred or come from an unfavorable section that produces no pattern. However, we are looking at making smaller items with those, such as keychains or keepers on the straps.”

He’s just Ken: The watch collector

Ken describes himself as a rookie to the watch world as he started his watch collecting journey about five years ago, at about the same time he started his leather crafting business. “My watch collection started out with dress watches. Even at this point, I only have a couple of Rolex watches; leather straps do not go well with Rolex watches at all.

“Call it an occupational hazard but with Delugs creating these great rubber straps, I find myself leaning towards sports watches. Admittedly, it’s an R&D thing for me sometimes, as I put them on just to test things out.”

Image: Revolution ©

Ken shared that his current affinity is with independent brands. And with the selections from his impressive personal collection, it’s a well curated one. It includes a Grönefeld, Romain Gauthier, MB&F, De Bethune, a Cartier Cintrée, a limited edition Seiko Presage with a blue “ice shard” dial (his first acquisition), and one of his more recent additions, a blue-dialed Pascal Coyon whose caseback houses a generously sized exhibition crystal.

“The spirit of independent watchmaking is something I can relate to in terms of how I run Delugs as an independent business owner myself,” said Ken. “You get to push the envelope a little bit more, and you treat every project like a new novelty.

Image: Revolution ©

“And what drives them is simply their passion. They have a certain idea on what they want to bring to the world – they get to cut out the bureaucratic practices, and I daresay even the financial logic to things. You get to contemplate if it’ll even make financial sense, unlike the bigger brands who have to answer for the expected revenue, market share, etc.

“Needless to say, it’s much easier to work with independent brands. Getting a meeting with them is comparatively more accessible, and you get to deal with the founders themselves.

“That’s exactly what happened with Sartory Billard. After I received my watch order for one of his watches, I took a photo of it with one of our curved straps. When he saw it, he invited me to a discussion to produce the rubber straps for his next sports watch. Just like that.”

The Future is Delugs

So now that we’ve established that Delugs makes good straps, what’s the challenge? “There’s a certain level of brand acceptance that we’re still working towards,” said Ken. “The day has yet to come where people would want to have a Delugs strap onto their Rolex watch, for example. It’s Frankenstein in a way, still.”

And metal bracelets are not off the table. “We’re definitely looking into it. The aim is to be the go-to business for all sorts of watch accessories, and producing metal bracelets would be a natural progression.

A Delugs prototype clasp. Image: Revolution ©

“It will be trickier, because bracelets are often designed together with the watch case it came with, so I foresee challenges in getting someone to switch their bracelet out for something that’s not. Metal bracelets also require fine details that will improve its quality of life, per se. Take for example, micro-adjustment features and quick-switch systems.”

Ken’s parting advice for a good strap game

“The two main things I’ve noticed that people do with their watch straps is, firstly, they’re wearing straps that are not at a right length for their wrists, especially for the ladies,” he said. “They settle with stock straps that don’t sit well, typically very loose, and in turn, both the strap and the watch could get ruined.”

“Watch straps have an “overhang” too. Fabric straps with a long tail are akin to wrongly-sized clothing: They just don’t fit.”

The Delugs expert: Ken dresses Omega, IWC, Hermès

How would you dress an Omega Seamaster Ploprof 75th Anniversary?

Omega Seamaster Ploprof 75th Anniversary
Delugs baby blue CTS rubber strap

“Definitely our baby blue rubber strap.”

How would you dress an IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun?

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun
Delugs dark grey Alcantara strap

“I would go with a gray alcantara strap with red stitching. And if I’m crazy enough, I’ll add a red keeper as well.”

How would you dress an Hermès H08 in yellow?

Hermès H08
Delugs white CTS rubber strap

“Yellow is a tough one for us, we don’t have enough yellow straps. [laughs] I’ll go with a white rubber strap. The color is luxurious and represents confidence. It says: ‘I know it can get dirty but I know how to take care of it that it will not be.’”

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FEATURED FROM ARTICLE

Sold Out

Angelus

ANGELUS x REVOLUTION CHRONODATE "ANGELS' SHARE"

$23,800.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber A-500; 60 hours power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	42.5mm; titanium; water resistant to 30m
Dial	Salmon (6N gold plated) with gené or frosted area; Super-LumiNova filled Arabic numerals
Strap	Ballistic gray rubber; titanium folding clasp

The post In Conversation with: Kenneth Kuan, founder of Delugs appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Behind the Scenes at Patek Philippe’s New PP6 Manufacture

Cheryl Chia — Fri, 08 Sep 2023 08:00:37 +0000

Behind the Scenes at Patek Philippe’s New PP6 Manufacture

A tour inside Patek Philippe’s no-expense-spared new facility brings some eye-opening insights into what it means to be truly vertically integrated.

Patek Philippe

By Cheryl Chia

Sep 8, 2023

When one of the world’s most important watch manufactures announced the completion of its expansive new facility in Plan-les-Ouates, the news naturally sparked immense curiosity and anticipation. The magnitude of this achievement left many wondering about the potential it held for Patek Philippe’s future, particularly in terms of production volume. A few months ago, Patek Philippe opened the doors of its new PP6 manufacture to members of the press, granting us the opportunity to witness the inner workings of a uniquely vertically integrated production that most other industrial luxury watch brands would give their right arm to have.

PP6 comprises a total of 10 stories, four of which are underground — two for plant areas and two for parking. Above ground, there are four production floors, a training floor, and a restaurant located on the top level.

Within the facility’s walls lies the embodiment of Patek Philippe’s two distinct yet evenly matched strengths — an unceasing spirit of innovation and a remarkable consistency in quality at scale and across price points. This accomplishment is a result of effectively managing and optimizing the synergy between advanced machinery and human expertise. As emphasized by the brand, the primary aim of the new PP6 facility is not to augment production volume significantly, but rather to optimize manufacturing processes under one roof while also enhancing production capabilities for their complicated and Rare Handcrafts watches. Last year, Patek Philippe produced a total of approximately 66,000 watches, which is around 6% more than the last reported annual production.

An industrial park at the periphery of Plan-Les-Ouates has been the home of Patek Philippe since 1996. Patek Philippe was the first to begin the process of consolidating all its disparate workshops previously scattered across Geneva into a single site. Its relentless pursuit of in-house knowledge and expertise has prompted significant expansion plans since their early establishment in Plan-Les-Ouates, preceding the presence of Rolex and Vacheron Constantin.

Patek Philippe, however, continues to maintain its presence in La Chaux-de-Fonds, the cradle of fine watchmaking, where it united three workshops — case making and polishing, including some bracelet components (Calame), as well as gem setting (SHG) — under one roof in 2008. Its horological empire also includes a dial-making workshop (Cadran Flückiger) in Saint-Imier, a movement casing workshop (Allaine) in Alle, a finishing workshop (Betakron) in the Jura, as well as a production centre encompassing haute horlogerie and repairs (Patek Philippe La Vallée SA) in Le Brassus.

When stepping foot inside PP6, its sheer dominance is resounding. Inaugurated in 2020, it sits a stone’s throw from Patek Philippe’s headquarters, its construction spanning five long years, followed by several additional months to complete its outfitting. It was so named as it represents the sixth wing within the entire premises. The headquarters, situated in the main building, is composed of four wings. The fifth wing, PP5, was built in 2009 to accommodate the production of movement parts. However, PP6 has now taken over from PP5 as the company has fully utilized the maximum permissible plot of land in Plan-les-Ouates. In other words, the functions once accommodated in the single-floor PP5 have now been shifted to PP6. Today, Patek Philippe’s Plan-les-Ouates manufacture accommodates approximately 2,000 employees.

Lobby of PP6

The building concept was envisioned by Frisk de Marignac Pidoux, while the interior architecture was designed by Frei & Stefani. PP6’s magnitude is easily grasped through a few figures. Stretching 189 meters in length and reaching 34 meters in height above ground, its total floor area spans a staggering 133,650m². Bringing this project to life required an investment of CHF 600 million — CHF 500 million for the construction of the edifice, while the remaining funds were channeled into its interiors, machinery and equipment.

The building comprises of 10 stories, four of which are underground — two for plant areas and two for parking. There are four production floors in all, followed by a training floor, as well as a large restaurant on the top floor.

The ground floor (level 0) is dedicated to the production and finishing of mainplates and bridges. Wheels and pinions, on the other hand, are made from scratch and finished on the first floor. The second floor is where the production, manual polishing, and assembly of cases, bracelets and other external components are carried out. Patek Philippe’s case and bracelet making department that was previously located in Perly has now been moved here. This floor also houses the production of spare parts as well as gem setting.

The third floor is home to the research and design division, including the Patek Philippe Advanced Research department. Unfortunately, it was out of bounds during our day of visit. The fourth floor, on the other hand, is dedicated to rare handcrafts, where skilled artisans carry out crafts such as engraving, enameling, and guilloché work.

Mainplate and Bridge Production

PP6 houses a fleet of over 400 state-of-the-art production machines designed in accordance with the brand’s requirements for small-series production. CNC (Computer Numerical Control) machines are automated systems used to control the movement of cutting tools with high precision and efficiency. It moves the cutting tool along the X,Y and Z axes according to the CAD design. The CNC software generates G-codes, which are a series of numerical instructions that dictate the speed, direction and distance of the movements, ensuring precise and repeatable machining operations.

A CNC machine with a large feeding wheel is used to process square plates made of brass, forming a mainplate or a bridge

The various stages of mainplate production

CNC machining is a topic that many watch enthusiasts would rather avoid, but it is essential in producing large batches of complex and precise parts around the clock. While there is rising interest in artisanal independent watchmakers today, some of whom continue to produce watches entirely by hand, albeit at a rate of under three watches a year, the ability to scale up production while maintaining a consistently high degree of refinement is a challenging art and the reason why Patek Philippe is the envy of the rest of the industry.

At the entrance of each production floor is a schematic diagram that shows the numerous processes involved at each step of the manufacturing journey. On the first production floor where mainplates and bridges are made, CNC lathes are used to process square plates made of brass. The underside of each plate undergoes milling and drilling using a large CNC milling machine with a huge feeding wheel. The resulting brass disc features holes and recesses to accommodate various parts.

The mainplate after being removed from the square plate

Subsequently, the underside of the plate is machine finished around the recesses before the thickness is checked. Only then will the top side of the plate be machined. Then, its contour is milled and rounded, forming a mainplate or a bridge. Afterward, the bridge is mechanically engraved with the Patek Philippe branding and then washed to remove any residue of oil or other potential contaminants. The bridge is then gilded. At this phase, red varnish is also applied in the hollows of gilded numbers and logos to ensure that they will remain gold even after rhodium plating.

Parts as Art

Next, any minute burrs or tiny scraps of material remaining on the bridges from machining are removed using a scraper with a narrow spearlike head and manually checked for quality control. Once completed, they are then ready to undergo hand finishing.

The mainplates or bridges are first decorated with perlage, also known as circular graining. It involves creating a pattern of small, overlapping circular shapes on the surface using a rotating abrasive tool. The operator must carefully push a lever downward to decorate the surface with a circle, and repeat the process with uniform pressure while ensuring that the rotating tool touches the plate at the right location.

Perlage executed on the recesses of a bridge

This decorative technique serves to eliminate machining marks, giving the surface an attractive luster while improving its resistance to corrosion. There are plans at each station that indicate the size of the circular graining to be executed. According to our guide, these plans were provided by a major department known as “the method”, responsible for translating construction plans into production schemes.

The edges of the bridges are then beveled using a handheld rotary tool, followed by straight graining on the squared-off sides of the bridge using an abrasive pencil-like tool. The craftsman gently strokes along the surface, creating parallel lines that give the metal a velvety, matte texture.

Beveling using a handheld rotary tool

The bridges are then decorated with Geneva stripes also known as Côtes de Genève. This decorative pattern consists of fine scratches that form parallel lines, creating a distinctive visual illusion of waves. The specialist operates a lathe equipped with a rotating abrasive tool head set at a slight angle, skillfully guiding the tool head along the mainplate or bridge’s length in a continuous and seamless motion. It is crucial to maintain a consistent speed and angle during this process to avoid creating an uneven and irregular finish.

Finally, the bridges and mainplates are protected from oxidizing with a fine layer of rhodium, which also imparts a distinctive white appearance. The plate and jewels are then loaded into a press fixture and assembled. After which, pins and studs are installed. According to our guide, employees in the finishing and assembly departments receive extensive training focused on a single operation for several months or even years. This requirement underscores the importance of qualities like stability and composure to uphold a consistent level of quality, given the rigorous final assessments that include both visual and mechanical inspections.

Pinions and Wheels

The tour was remarkably thorough, encompassing every aspect of watch production, including the crafting of wheels, pinions and arbors. While most brands that manufacture their own movements do produce these components internally, observing the process of creating these seemingly ordinary parts from the very beginning was remarkably enlightening as we are so rarely reminded of the complexity involved. Much focus has been placed on the aesthetic finishing of movement parts, but the functional finishing of these components is something most of us don’t think that much about. The smallest pinions and pivots must be cut and finished to perfection to achieve maximum efficiency in energy transmission.

Pinions and pivots are made using an automated profile turning machine. This machine contains long bars of brass or steel within a hopper. A bar is fed into a collet, and a combination of cutting tools from the side and a milling tool from the front work to precisely carve the material into the desired shape.

Profile turning machines

On the left and right of the collet are cutting tools, with a milling tool in the foreground

The most eye-opening aspect is the multitude of steps required to finish these parts. A pinion shaft, for instance, must be polished at its teeth using a polishing wheel, burnished at its pivots, chamfered at the edges of its shaft, and polished at the face of the leaves as well as pivot ends. Due to its nano scale, it must be assembled with a brass wheel blank to be worked on and inserted into a pivot polishing machine, and then disassembled at the end.

They are then loaded into pivot polishing machine and polished

Spoked wheels, on the other hand, begin life as a brass strip that is stamped in batches using a press and pushed out of the strip. Afterward, the center hole is drilled individually, and the level of difficulty can vary significantly depending on the size of the wheel. Subsequently, the spokes of the wheels are then chamfered and angled using a press tool. They are then finished with circular graining before their hubs are sunk. Next, batches of wheel blanks are gathered on an arbor to undergo teeth machining.

Pinions are temporarily assembled with brass wheel blanks and burnished at the pivots

Following the teeth cutting process, the center hole is recut to a slightly larger size and chamfered. Subsequently, all of them are individually checked for quality. We were told that each specialist is allowed to pursue a different operation within their department, but generally do not switch over to a different department. For instance, a pinion finisseur cannot be moved to the spoked wheel department, highlighting the high degree of specialization required and fostered.

A spoked wheel undergoing chamfering where a press tool is used for adding internal angles to the blanks

Sinking the wheel

Most of the wheels and pinions for grand complications are also manufactured on this floor. There are as many as 400 different tooth profiles and a total of 17 special wheels, including star wheels, wheel nuts and the distinctive “octopus” wheel with serpentine spokes.

Case and Bracelet Making

The case and bracelet-making department, previously located in Perly, as well as the gem-setting department are now housed on the second floor of PP6. We had the opportunity to observe several production processes of the Nautilus bracelet.

Bracelet making starts off with long metal bars, which arrive at the manufacture pre-shaped with a lengthwise recess down the center. This is to limit the time spent on machining the links into the shape of an “H”. These bars are loaded into a bar-fed machining center and milled to form individual links. These links then undergo several stages of measurement and quality inspection, including manual control, gauge-based control, video measurement control, and finally, three- dimensional control, to ensure geometric accuracy.

After undergoing the first round of finishing, the bracelet is assembled

There is perhaps no area of finishing more synonymous with Patek Philippe than the finishing of its bracelets. Few can match their devotion to the craft of the perfectly finished bracelet. Following the machining process, it takes no less than 55 steps to perform the finishing operations on a Nautilus case and bracelet. The exterior H-shaped links and center links are individually prepared, each undergoing lapping on the underside and satin-brushing or mirror-polishing on top. The bracelet is then assembled by fitting the links together and installing the pins.

They are then rebuffed to create a full satin-brushed finish

The underside and top surface are then buffed to create a satin-brushed finish, followed by the chamfering of the edges. Afterward, the H-shaped links are protected with a masking tape, exposing only the center links that must undergo polishing and buffing once again. Following that, the clasp is assembled with its tension adjusted, and it is fitted onto the bracelet with the cover being riveted. As any mishap at this stage could result in parts having to be refinished, a protective film is used to cover the surfaces of the bracelet.

The H-shaped links are protected with a masking tape, exposing only the center links that must undergo polishing and buffing once again

Chamfering the edges

Case making, on the other hand, starts off by having the form of the case stamped from a strip of metal using a press. Then, a punch is used to force the piece into the cavities or impressions on the die block. This repeated pressing allows for gradual refinement of the case’s dimensions until the final shape is achieved. After forging, the case undergoes thermal treatment to homogenize the metal’s composition and structure, ensuring consistent mechanical properties to maintain the integrity and quality of the case. It then undergoes further machining in a CNC lathe before it is ready to receive surface treatments such as diamond polishing.

The various stages of machining, turning and finishing

One of the decorating techniques we got to witness was the creation of the Clous de Paris hobnail pattern on the caseband of watches such as the Calatrava Ref. 5531 as well as the Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300. The guillocheur uses a hand-operated comb and plane lathe, where a comb tool with a series of fine parallel teeth is wielded with utmost control and precision to engrave the surface of the case while turning it. The difficulty lies in the delicate balance between applying just the right amount of pressure and ensuring consistent movement to achieve the desired results.

Applying the Clous de Paris hobnail pattern using a comb and plane lathe

In a particularly dim corner of the room, there is the gem-setting department, which consists of skilled gem- setters dedicated to working on special Haute Joaillerie pieces. One of them was working on the dial of an Aquanaut where its checkerboard pattern had been replaced by baguette-cut diamonds and emeralds using the invisible setting technique. This technique provides a seamless and smooth appearance by hiding the metal framework that holds the stones. The result is a striking and visually appealing design where the gemstones seemingly blend into the surrounding precious metal.

The dimly-lit environment of a gemsetter enhances their ability to assess and set gemstones with precision

A metal framework or setting is specially designed to hold the stones. The metal bars or channels have notches on their sides to securely hold the gemstones in place. Tiny grooves, known as girdle grooves, are present on the sides of the baguette-cut stones that interlock with the notches in the metal framework, ensuring a secure and precise fit. The gem-setter uses pressure to secure the stones gently and precisely into the metal setting. The gems are fitted closely together, with no visible gaps or metal prongs between them, giving the illusion that they are floating or magically held in place.

Setting the dial of an Aquanaut with baguette-cut diamonds and emeralds using the invisible setting technique

After the stones are set, the piece undergoes careful inspection to ensure that each stone is perfectly aligned and secured in place. The patience, steady hand and gimlet eye that we take for granted in watchmaking, are just as crucial for the maestros of the gem-setter’s craft. As a testament to its complexity, watches featuring the invisible setting technique often command a premium.

Grand Complications

PP6 also houses the production and assembly of grand complications, which is by far the most labor-intensive aspect of their manufacture. The CNC machines used in this department cater to small serial production. Our guide explained that in the Grandmaster Chime, the mainplate begins as a very thick plate of metal that requires four hours of milling and drilling on the front and six hours of milling on the back.

Skeletonized plates and other intricate small components, such as levers, are manufactured with high precision using an electro or wire erosion. In this process, the machine submerges a series of metal plates in deionized water and directs a thin, electrically charged wire downward to cut the plates with exceptional accuracy. The wire erosion technique allows for the creation of complex and delicate shapes with very tight tolerances, ensuring the precise and intricate construction of parts.

Unlike movement parts for the classic collections, parts for grand complications can be extremely difficult to finish by hand due to their complex shapes and sizes. While a bench-style wooden grinding wheel or a handheld rotary tool is used on the regular production floor, we saw more metal and wooden files being used in this department. A manual file is more time-consuming, but it offers maximum control on more delicate and hard-to-reach areas, as seen on components like the bridge for a tourbillon or a centrifugal governor. These various methods of anglage enable Patek Philippe to consistently maintain a high quality of finish.

Rare Handcrafts

Continuing our journey to the fourth floor, we were treated to a demonstration of champlevé enameling in the Rare Handcrafts department. In champlevé enameling, a thick dial plate is carefully hollowed out to create outlines of cavities where enamel is painted into, before firing to affix the colors. This method allows different colors of enamels to be mixed freely within one compartment to create gradients and shading without affecting the others. It is generally simpler and quicker to execute compared to cloisonné, which requires precise shaping and positioning of thin metal wires, making it more suitable for serial production.

An enameller showcasing the technique of champlevé enameling

The demonstration was eventually hijacked by our group and the artwork began deteriorating rapidly. We were told that Patek Philippe fires the enamel after the application of each layer, while some brands opt to fire at the end for quicker production, limiting color and shading adjustments if issues were to be discovered only at the end. Alas, the artwork did not advance to the stage of firing; by the time we were done, it was ready for the bin.

Bottles of enamel powder

Cloisonné enameling on the dial of the Golden Ellipse Ref. 5738/50G-025 “Snow-Covered Landscape” created for the Grand Art Exhibition in Tokyo this year

The team of enamelers based in PP6 are skilled in as many as 12 types of enameling. There are also enamelers based in Patek Philippe’s dial factory, Cadrans Flückiger in St Imier. For certain special pieces, independent enamelers, including Anita Porchet, are subcontracted.

By the end of the tour, it was impossible not to come away with a profound respect and admiration for the completeness and consistency that permeate every aspect of Patek Philippe, be it in terms of watchmaking or manufacturing. These qualities are emblematic of the fact that the manufacture is nothing if not superlatively astute about its future, as it has been since the dawn of the Stern era. The decision to strengthen its complicated and Rare Handcrafts collections is a move that will only reaffirm its position as the foremost complication specialist and a steadfast guardian of Genevan craftsmanship. In an era consumed by hype-y steel watches, this is the light at the end of the tunnel.

Reference

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By Cheryl Chia

The Way of Resonance

Jan 30, 2023

Editor's Picks

By Ross Povey

Rolex Explorer everything you need to know about

Jun 2, 2021 6 minutes

Editor's Picks

By Cheryl Chia

The Complete History of the Chronograph Movement: 1940s–1980s

Mar 4, 2021

FROM THE SHOP

Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross x Alessandro Palazzi x Revolution & The Rake Bellytanker Chronograph "Vesper"

$5,250.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber BR.CAL-301; 42-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	41mm; CuAI7Si2 bronze; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices
Strap	Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post Behind the Scenes at Patek Philippe’s New PP6 Manufacture appeared first on Revolution Watch.

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The Eagle has Landed: Planet Omega Touches Down in New York City

The Eagle has Landed: Planet Omega Touches Down in New York City

Eyes on the prize…

Eyes on the stars…

What lies beneath…

From the shadows to the silver screen

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Time to Shine: Celeb Watch Roundup from Exhilarating Fashion Month

Time to Shine: Celeb Watch Roundup from Exhilarating Fashion Month

Charlize Theron at New York Fashion Week

Stormzy at London Fashion Week

Bad Bunny at Milan Fashion Week

Jennifer Lawrence at Paris Fashion Week

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Are small dive watches the next big thing?

Are small dive watches the next big thing?

The rise of wrist-friendly options

Why size matters

Why did small dive watches fall out of fashion?

Why have small dive watches made a comeback?

Collector’s perspectives

Watchmaker’s perspectives

Are smaller sizes the future of dive watches?

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The NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 39 in new autumnal tones

The NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 39 in new autumnal tones

Initial thoughts

What we think

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In Conversation with: Kenneth Kuan, founder of Delugs

In Conversation with: Kenneth Kuan, founder of Delugs

He’s just Ken: The watch collector

The Future is Delugs

Ken’s parting advice for a good strap game

The Delugs expert: Ken dresses Omega, IWC, Hermès

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Behind the Scenes at Patek Philippe’s New PP6 Manufacture

Behind the Scenes at Patek Philippe’s New PP6 Manufacture

Mainplate and Bridge Production

Parts as Art

Pinions and Wheels

Case and Bracelet Making

Grand Complications

Rare Handcrafts

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TOP DISCUSSIONS

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