Lee Sheng, Author at Revolution Watch

Introducing the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan

Lee Sheng — Wed, 25 Oct 2023 16:26:02 +0000

Introducing the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan

Good old Greubel Forsey with an innovative creation.

Independent Watchmaking

Oct 26, 2023

While Swiss independent watchmaker Greubel Forsey has recently shifted its focus towards sportier high-end chronometry wristwatches, it surprised us by unveiling the Tourbillon Cardan.

Deviating from its more recent Covexe case design, the Tourbillon Cardan presents a classic case and dial that immediately conjures memories of the brand’s timepieces from years gone by. The Tourbillon Cardan undeniably embodies the quintessential Greubel Forsey style, not only in its aesthetics but also in its mechanical precision. This is evident in the watchmaker’s latest innovation – the 8th, according to the La Chaux-de-Fonds atelier – in precision timekeeping: the gimbal system, which ensures the tourbillon maintains the optimal angle.

Classic yet innovative

The latest Tourbillon Cardan is a classic Greubel Forsey wristwatch that will undoubtedly delight the brand’s long-time collectors. It features a familiar case design that leans more towards a dressy style, in contrast to the integrated sporty look of the brand’s more recent watches.

However, true to the Greubel Forsey ethos, the Tourbillon Cardan is anything but a mere reproduction of bygone dress watches. In fact, the Cardan perfectly embodies the brand’s ethos, which is to create watches that honor the rules and traditions of classic Swiss watchmaking while infusing them with a contemporary aesthetic that belongs to our time. This is most apparent in the dial, which showcases multi-level components and partial open working, giving the watch a strikingly modern appearance not typically found in vintage chronometry timepieces.

But, more importantly, the brand has not only introduced a modern design language but also new mechanics. It has invented a variety of tourbillon configurations, ranging from an inclined tourbillon to a quadruple tourbillon. However, it never stands still and continues to innovate, as evidenced by its latest and 8th invention, the Tourbillon Cardan.

The Tourbillon Cardan can be broken down into three components. First, the core tourbillon itself, which completes a revolution every 16 seconds, or almost 4 complete revolutions per minute, making it the fastest within the brand’s collection.

Second, the tourbillon is, as you may have guessed, inclined at a 30-degree angle. This is an innovation that dates back to the founding of the brand in 2004. According to Greubel Forsey’s research, a 30-degree angle is ideal for the inclination of a balance in a wristwatch, considering the time it spends on a wrist and sitting on a desk, in terms of offsetting the gravitational error.

However, the 30-degree angle won’t always remain constant. Certain wrist movements or methods of placing the watch in a box or on a table can alter the inclination of the tourbillon to an undesirable angle, such as one that’s perpendicular to the ground. This is where the brand’s latest invention comes into play – the Cardan, a mechanism based on the principles of a gimbal.

Traditionally found in marine chronometers, a gimbal serves to maintain a horizontal profile of the marine clock, ensuring that the balance wheel does not encounter positional errors induced by gravity. This, in turn, increases precision and the ability for sailors to estimate deviation and determine longitude more accurately.

In the Tourbillon Cardan, the gimbal serves to maintain a 30-degree angle instead of a horizontal profile. This modern innovation pays homage to classic chronometry methods, setting the watch apart as a distinctive and uncommon offering in today’s wristwatch landscape. Only a handful of past examples of wristwatches with a gimbal exist, including the Zenith Christophe Colomb Hurricane and, to some extent, the ingenious Cartier Astrorégulateur.

You might wonder why the inclination angle is fixed at 30 degrees rather than horizontal, which would minimize gravitational influence. That’s because the gimbal in the Tourbillon Cardan isn’t freely moving. Instead, it has a 48-second period during which it tilts backward and forward from +30 to -30 degrees. In other words, it doesn’t move freely to offset all inclined angles, but rather within a narrow range of angles. According to the brand, a 30-degree inclination for the tourbillon is ideal in this case.

Our verdict

The Tourbillon Cardan is a welcome addition to Greubel Forsey’s collection, encompassing several defining features of the brand. These include innovative timekeeping mechanisms, a contemporary yet elegant aesthetic, and, of course, impeccable hand finishing of all movement components.

By incorporating a gimbal, the Cardan embodies the brand’s ongoing pursuit of complex mechanics designed to enhance chronometry. Arguably, these traditional techniques may be less efficient than modern precision machinery methods such as deep reactive ion etching (DRIE) and LIGA, but these classic solutions offer a unique fusion of beauty and emotion, and will undoubtedly stand the test of time, at least from an artistic perspective. As the philosopher Zhuangzi eloquently pointed out, there is usefulness in the seemingly useless, and this watch serves as a sterling example of that concept.

Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan specs and price

Movement: Tourbillon Cardan; manual; 80 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, tourbillon, and power reserve indicator
Case: 46 mm x 13.81 mm; titanium; water resistant to 30 m
Strap: Black plant-based strap with titanium folding clasp
Availability: From Greubel Forsey and its retailers
Limited edition: 55 pieces over the next five years
Price: SGD 729,000

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FROM THE SHOP

Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross x Alessandro Palazzi x Revolution & The Rake Bellytanker Chronograph "Vesper"

$5,250.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber BR.CAL-301; 42-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	41mm; CuAI7Si2 bronze; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices
Strap	Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post Introducing the Greubel Forsey Tourbillon Cardan appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Are small dive watches the next big thing?

Lee Sheng — Fri, 13 Oct 2023 07:00:29 +0000

Are small dive watches the next big thing?

Exploring the resurgence of smaller dive watches.

News

By Lee Sheng

Oct 13, 2023

In recent years, something interesting has been happening in the world of watches – a renewed interest in smaller or midsize dive watches. This shift is embraced by both watchmakers and enthusiasts, signifying a departure from the era of unwieldy timepieces that burden the wrist. Today, the spotlight returns to dive watches that effortlessly combine comfort and style.

The rise of wrist-friendly options

The resurgence of smaller dive watches might seem like a sudden change, but this trend has been quietly developing over the past few years. It has led to a variety of small dive watch options in different price ranges that might have gone unnoticed. Let’s delve into the timeline of this evolving trend.

In 2017, Blancpain released a Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe with a 38 mm case. During that same year, Rado launched the Captain Cook with a case size of 37 mm. Seiko also introduced the “Mini Turtle,” and in the subsequent years, the Japanese brand has continued to release various dive watches under 40 mm, including vintage reissues of the “62MAS” and modern options such as the Prospex Solar.

In 2018, Oris unveiled the Divers Sixty-Five, which offered a 36 mm case option. Also in 2018, Tudor made its mark with the Black Bay 58, featuring a 39 mm case that took the industry by surprise. These examples serve to illustrate the growing availability of (and interest in) dive watches with smaller dimensions.

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five "Cotton Candy" with a 38 mm case

The trend of smaller dive watches has reached a significant point in 2023, creating excitement among classic dive watch enthusiasts. Tudor’s release of a 37 mm dive watch stands out as an unusual move. This is particularly noteworthy because the 39 mm Black Bay 58, introduced in 2018, was already considered small and highly popular due to its size. It’s remarkable that Tudor chose to go even smaller with a 37 mm model. Tudor’s decision could potentially mark a pivotal moment for smaller divers, given the brand’s prominence and popularity.

While the trend of smaller dive watches has made progress, the space is still dominated by plus-sized cases. Smaller, more wearable models remain a rarity – and many enthusiasts worldwide are still taking issue with the regular stream of larger releases, with the launch of a smaller dive watch being the exception, rather than the rule.

The Rado x The Rake & Revolution Captain Cook “Ghost Captain” with a 37.3 mm case

Why size matters

The dive watch, as we know it today with its rugged, unmistakable rotating bezel, is a specialized tool that emerged in the mid-20th century. Despite being a relatively recent innovation, dive watches have become synonymous with wristwatches. If you were to ask anyone to imagine a watch, the image of a dive watch – especially the Rolex Submariner – would likely come to mind, especially for newcomers.

As a watch enthusiast, there’s a range of things we look for when trying to find the perfect dive watch. Naturally, the first criterion is practicality, which includes factors such as water resistance, legibility, ease of operation, and other crucial details that can determine a dive watch’s success or failure.

The next aspect to consider is its look and feel. While we may take pride in owning an impressive and substantial piece of equipment (think Deepsea Challenge), it’s worth noting that we’re discussing luxury items here. This means that, for most people, the emotions they evoke – their aesthetics and tactile experience – often matter more than how they’ll perform at depth.

The Rolex Deepsea Challenge ref. 126067, a massive timepiece with a 50 mm case and a water resistance of 11,000 meters

However, for most watch buyers, appearance and feel are arguably the most critical factors to consider, especially since the majority of them aren’t divers. But what exactly gives a dive watch that perfect feel on the wrist?

Of course there’s no single factor: the curved domed crystal, the jet-black dial with prominent luminescent markers, the oversized crown, and robust lugs. These distinct elements come together to create what is instantly recognisable as a dive watch.

The original Rolex Submariner ref. 6204. Image by Antiquorum.

But there’s something simpler yet vital to discuss – one that plays a substantial role in shaping a dive watch’s overall appearance and tactile experience in contrast to the aforementioned details. Size.

Smaller dive watches tend to be more appealing, in a timeless, classic sense. Much like the ebb and flow of trends, dive watches have undergone a complete transformation in terms of size. Dive watches started small, grew to enormous sizes around the 2000s, and are now returning to more manageable dimensions. Of course, the 47 mm diver has its place, but it is a rare wrist that can actually manage to wear it.

The Royal Oak Offshore Revolution Limited Edition

Why did small dive watches fall out of fashion?

The first Rolex dive watch to bear the iconic label “Submariner” on the dial was the ref. 6204, introduced in 1953, and it had a diameter of 37 mm. The inaugural Tudor Submariner, the ref. 7922 from 1954, shared the same 37 mm size. The original Omega Seamaster 300 from 1957 measured 39 mm.

One of the larger dive watches of that era was the Fifty Fathoms, which debuted at a substantial 41 mm width in 1953. It was so big that Blancpain swiftly responded with the Bathyscaphe model, offering case sizes as small as 34.5 mm, like the one pictured below from 1956.

The 34.5 mm Blancpain Bathyscaphe from circa 1956. Image by Wind Vintage.

However, dive watches eventually departed from these sizes, and the standard settled around 40 mm. By the end of the 1950s, Rolex launched its 40 mm Submariner, and for many years, dive watches under 40 mm became uncommon. When brands introduced new models or updated versions, they tended to be equal to or larger than 40 mm. For instance, when Omega introduced its first-generation Seamaster Professional 300m in 1993, it measured 41 mm in width.

So, why did smaller-sized dive watches lose favor? Why were the 36 mm and 39 mm Submariners discontinued in the 1990s? Why was the 36 mm Seamaster 300 Professional discontinued in 2018? Why did brands eventually phase out small dive watches?

First and foremost, across the board, watches increased in size as trends shifted from classical to contemporary. The once-fashionable 33 mm gentlemen’s watches gradually lost their appeal. Consequently, dive watches, being watches after all, also embraced the trend and grew in size.

Second, and perhaps even more crucially, there was a massive surge in the popularity of large, attention-grabbing watches in the 1990s and 2000s. This was the era when timepieces like the Royal Oak Offshore and Big Bang made their mark. Despite their substantial size, they became incredibly fashionable and cool, capturing the attention of collectors and fueling the demand for larger watches. The commercial success of these larger-than-life watches encouraged other manufacturers to follow suit and create larger timepieces.

A sleek Hublot Big Bang Integral entirely made from light blue ceramic

Why have small dive watches made a comeback?

When exploring the internet for new watch releases, a consistent trend emerges: comments expressing disappointment with slightly oversized timepieces. Collectors and enthusiasts frequently yearn for smaller versions. So, what’s fueling this renewed interest in smaller dive watches? Let’s delve into the perspectives of both watchmakers and enthusiasts.

Collector’s perspectives

To begin, we’ll consider the viewpoint of watch enthusiasts. There are four compelling reasons why collectors are increasingly drawn to smaller watches.

First and foremost, smaller watches evoke a strong feeling of nostalgia. It feels warm, classy, and romantic, in contrast to bulkier modern watches. People long for this retro sensibility and treasure watches that harken back to a bygone era.

Second, contemporary fashion trends embrace the blending of formal and casual styles, especially after the pandemic. This makes it common and acceptable to wear dive watches in everyday life and various occasions. Smaller dive watches offer a versatile and attractive option that complements different styles, unlike their larger counterparts, which might appear unwieldy with formal attire.

The Canadian Navy-issued Tudor Submariner Ref. 9401/0

Third, the growing interest among women in dive watches contributes to the resurgence of interest in mid-sized models.

Finally, and most importantly, smaller watches simply look better on the wrist. According to a survey conducted by watch collector Mark Cho on wrist sizes, the majority of respondents perceived their wrist size as below average or small, creating a distribution diagram skewed towards the left. However, in reality, their wrist sizes follow a normal curve. Mr. Cho explains that people may perceive the watches available on the market as designed for those with average wrist sizes. But sometimes these watches are too big for most people. Collectors might feel like their wrists are smaller than they really are, even though that might not be true.

The Tudor Black Bay 54 worn with formal business attire

Watchmaker’s perspectives

Now, let’s consider the perspectives of watchmakers – why are brands interested in making smaller dive watches?

Well, watch brands are in the business of selling watches, first and foremost. The market always wants something new and exciting, whether it’s fresh ideas or bringing back old ones. After the trend for larger watches, watchmakers may feel the need to introduce smaller items to inject excitement into the market. By offering a smaller size, they can get the attention of collectors and enthusiasts who want something different.

The Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep 6000 m with a 45.5 mm case

Third, the resurgence of interest in vintage watches has fostered a fascination with vintage-inspired modern watches. To authentically capture the nostalgic appeal, watchmakers must strike the right proportions in the watch case. Creating smaller dive watches is a quick way for brands to evoke the old-school charm and the sentiments of the past.

Lastly, it’s essential for brands to diversify their offerings with multiple sizes for the same model. This allows watchmakers to cater to different markets without the need for extensive redesigning, reducing production costs, and enhancing the appeal of their timepieces.

Are smaller sizes the future of dive watches?

The resurgence of smaller dive watches symbolizes a return to simplicity and prompts us to reconsider our values. It’s a reminder that not everything needs to be oversized and conspicuous to make a statement. In an era where bigger is often equated with better, these modestly sized dive watches underline that true luxury lies in the quiet details, in the precision of execution, and in the emotional connection a timepiece can create.

In the end, the journey of these smaller dive watches reflects the cyclical nature of trends, where the past influences the present, and the present shapes the future. In one way or another, it serves as a testament to the enduring allure of watches that resonate with our hearts and wrists, regardless of their size. As we continue to explore the evolving landscape of watchmaking, one thing remains clear – the timeless charm of smaller dive watches will always find its place in the ever-turning wheel of fashion and taste.

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FROM THE SHOP

Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross x Alessandro Palazzi x Revolution & The Rake Bellytanker Chronograph "Vesper"

$5,250.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber BR.CAL-301; 42-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	41mm; CuAI7Si2 bronze; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices
Strap	Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post Are small dive watches the next big thing? appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Seiko Unveils Two Limited-Edition Prospex Land Models: SPB411 and SLA071

Lee Sheng — Thu, 12 Oct 2023 07:00:32 +0000

Seiko Unveils Two Limited-Edition Prospex Land Models: SPB411 and SLA071

Dive-watch-esque case with a solid metal bezel.

News

By Lee Sheng

Oct 12, 2023

While Seiko continues to introduce a variety of new dive watch models, the brand has recently turned its attention to a different lineup for a refreshing change. The latest offerings from the Japanese watchmaker consist of two Prospex wristwatches designed for land-based adventures, rather than sea exploration: the Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition SPB411 and the Landmaster 30th Anniversary Limited Edition SLA071. What distinguishes these watches is their all-metal bezels, a departure from the more common aluminum or ceramic bezel inserts typically found on dive watches.

Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition SPB411

First up is the SPB411, a recreation of the Navigator Timer ref. 6117-8000 from 1968, which happened to be the brand’s first GMT watch with a rotating bezel. Notably, the SPB411 is a faithful reissue, maintaining the dimensions and design of the original.

The new SPB411 features a modest 38.5 mm-wide case, similar to the vintage original’s 38 mm. The dial also closely adheres to the original in both general design and specific details. It adopts the grey “sun-ray” dial, as well as the baton indices and hands, including the distinctive red GMT hand with stubby, equilateral triangle tip. Even the lettering on the bezel remains true to the vintage original.

The only difference lies in the dial printing, where it lacks the Navigator Timer branding and other details. However, fortunately, the latest version does not overwhelm the dial with excessive logos, such as the Prospex logo, preserving the restrained and retro look and feel of the dial.

It’s worth noting the bracelet as well. The original Navigator Timer offered a range of bracelet choices, one of which was a five-link bracelet. The latest model takes cues from this design but adds a modern twist with a more angular and faceted profile, departing from the rounded links of the original. This update results in an appealing look that harmonizes with the watch’s robust aesthetic.

Inside the watch is the cal. 6R54, which builds upon the cal. 6R35 by adding a GMT hand. As a result, it maintains a 72-hour power reserve, but the local hour hand cannot be set in one-hour increments. Instead, the 24-hour hand can be adjusted in one-hour increments.

Landmaster 30th Anniversary Limited Edition SLA071

Moving on to a higher-end model, the SLA071 is designed to commemorate the 30th anniversary of the Landmaster lineup. While it shares the broad strokes of the original Landmaster, such as the case style and compass bezel, the similarities end there.

Instead, the new SLA071 has been upgraded with a more nuanced dial and movement. The dial displays a gradient blue hue that deepens towards the edges, and it also incorporates a subtle pattern that adds depth to its visual appeal. The blue tone is nicely complemented by the inclusion of a gilt logo and seconds hand, which was not part of the original design.

Noteworthy is the SLA071’s construction, which, despite its somewhat bulky 42mm width, is made lightweight through the use of titanium for both the case and bracelet, an improvement over the original steel construction.

Lastly, the movement inside is the cal. 8L35, essentially a simplified version of the earlier Grand Seiko 9S movement, specifically the cal. 9S55. Consequently, it offers a 50-hour power reserve, which falls slightly short of the modern norm of three days. However, this does not detract from the fact that it is a robustly engineered movement.

Seiko Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition SPB411 specs and price

Movement: 6R54; automatic; 72 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT, and date
Case: 38.5 mm x 12.6 mm; steel; water resistant to 100 m
Strap: Steel bracelet
Availability: At Seiko’s boutiques and retailers
Limited edition: 4,000 pieces
Price: USD 1,500

Seiko Prospex Land Landmaster 30th Anniversary Limited Edition SLA071 specs and price

Movement: 8L35; automatic; 50 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date
Case: 42 mm x 12.7 mm; titanium; water resistant to 200 m
Strap: Titanium bracelet
Availability: At Seiko’s boutiques and retailers
Limited edition: 1,000 pieces
Price: USD 2,600

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FROM THE SHOP

Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross x Alessandro Palazzi x Revolution & The Rake Bellytanker Chronograph "Vesper"

$5,250.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber BR.CAL-301; 42-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	41mm; CuAI7Si2 bronze; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices
Strap	Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post Seiko Unveils Two Limited-Edition Prospex Land Models: SPB411 and SLA071 appeared first on Revolution Watch.

anOrdain Unveils Model 3 Method with Wood-Grain Enamel Dial

Lee Sheng — Wed, 04 Oct 2023 06:25:17 +0000

anOrdain Unveils Model 3 Method with Wood-Grain Enamel Dial

Chiselled wood pattern covered in translucent enamel.

News

By Lee Sheng

Oct 4, 2023

A British microbrand that has stayed rather focused in its offerings, anOrdain is known for its collections of enamel dial wristwatches with prices in the low thousands, making them an unusually elaborate and niche offering within this category.

Now, the brand has unveiled the Model 3 Method with an all-new case and dial. Specifically, the dial is adorned with a wood-grain pattern reminiscent of guilloché but with a more organic touch, beautifully covered in layers of translucent enamel, available in either light green or turquoise blue.

The Model 3 Method Lichen (left) and Aqua

Chiseled wood pattern

Lewis, the founder of anOrdain, has always been interested in creating a flinqué enamel dial that combines guilloché work and enameling. Yet, he’s reluctant to use repetitive, mechanical patterns.

This is where Method Studio comes into play. Another workshop based in Scotland, just like anOrdain, Method Studio specializes in crafting cabinets and trunks for renowned clients, including big names like Vacheron Constantin and Hermes. Lewis was particularly intrigued by the hand-chiseled wood pattern created by Method Studio, considering it the perfect replacement for a guilloché pattern due to its organic, handcrafted nature.

As a result, the two brands have collaborated to create the dial for the Model 3 Method. To achieve this, anOrdain partnered with the Glasgow School of Art to access a structured-light 3D scanner, which captured the hand-chiseled pattern from Method Studio. This pattern was then translated into a steel stamping die using laser technology. Finally, a silver dial blank is stamped with the die to recreate the wood-grain pattern.

The wood boards with chiseled textures

After the blank dial is stamped, the craftspeople at anOrdain then apply layers of enamel to it, which, of course, require repeated applications and firings. The result is a dial in vibrant hues of either blue or green, both of which are translucent, revealing the rippling pattern underneath. According to anOrdain, this process is particularly challenging due to the uneven surface, which easily leads to increased opportunities for defects such as bubbles or cracks to occur.

While the wood-grain pattern is new to anOrdain, a textured enamel dial is not entirely unprecedented. The brand has previously applied enamel over a hand-hammered surface. However, this latest release represents the most expensive watch ever produced by the brand, costing approximately twice as much as the base model with a plain enamel dial and 35% more than the previous hammered enamel dial.

Hand painting the dial with enamel

A close-up view of the enamel dial reveals some spots, which are tiny bubbles that are unavoidable in fired enamel

A compact case

To complement the new dial, a new case design has been introduced for the Model 3 Method. Similar to the Model 1, the Model 3 case maintains a sleek profile from all angles, creating a minimalist look. The latest iteration, though, takes this a step further with even slimmer lugs and a thinner bezel, resulting in a more refined appearance compared to the brand’s earlier models, which is particularly noticeable from the side. However, the new case may evoke the design of the Nomos Orion case.

Despite these enhancements, the new case is slightly wider at 39 mm in diameter, which is a few millimeters larger than its predecessors. It still maintains a slender profile of just 10.5 mm, made possible thanks to the Sellita SW 300 movement, an equivalent to the slim ETA 2892.

The Model 3 Method Aqua

anOrdain Model 3 Method specs and price

Movement: Sellita SW300; automatic; 42 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Case: 39 mm x 10.5 mm; steel; water resistant to 50 m
Strap: Leather strap
Availability: Directly from anOrdain
Limited edition: No
Price: USD 4,394 (price excludes taxes)

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FROM THE SHOP

Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross x Alessandro Palazzi x Revolution & The Rake Bellytanker Chronograph "Vesper"

$5,250.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber BR.CAL-301; 42-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	41mm; CuAI7Si2 bronze; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices
Strap	Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post anOrdain Unveils Model 3 Method with Wood-Grain Enamel Dial appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Omega Announces the Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black ETNZ Edition

Lee Sheng — Wed, 27 Sep 2023 05:47:34 +0000

Omega Announces the Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black ETNZ Edition

A striking regatta chronograph in bright turquoise against black ceramic.

News

By Lee Sheng

Sep 27, 2023

Amidst the preliminary races for the 37th America’s Cup, a warm-up event leading to the main competition in the summer of 2024, the official timekeeper Omega has launched a special edition regatta chronograph. Specifically, the Planet Ocean Deep Black ETNZ draws its design inspiration from the emblem of Emirates Team New Zealand, the defending champion, which has been sponsored by the Swiss watchmaker since 1995.

Blue at night as well

Deep black and turquoise

The ETNZ edition stands out prominently due to its construction and palette. It is crafted entirely from black ceramic, including the case, bezel, dial, buckle, and even the case back, making it one of the few all-ceramic watches on the market. Notably, the black ceramic creates a striking contrast with vibrant turquoise accents on the dial. This contrast greatly improves readability, a crucial feature for a chronograph designed for sporting events.

Besides its practicality, the new design is remarkably attractive. Omega’s Planet Ocean series consistently features a contemporary look, with modern typography and a clean, eye-catching design. The two-tone black and turquoise styling perfectly complements this modern design, further enhancing its futuristic aesthetic.

Notably, the all-black design creates an optical illusion, making the watch appear smaller than its substantial dimensions of 45.2 mm in width. Fortunately, the choice of ceramic makes it lightweight and comfortable on the wrist. These details should enhance the watch’s accessibility for people with smaller wrists yet seeking a timepiece with a sporty and majestic presence.

The counterweight of the seconds hand takes the form of the America's Cup trophy

It also comes with an all-out turquoise rubber strap

Regatta chronograph

Inside the watch is the Caliber 9900, Omega’s flagship automatic chronograph movement with a vertical clutch and a column wheel. And, of course, it is equipped with the Co-Axial escapement as well as a silicon hairspring, which gives it 15,000 gauss of magnetism resistance. One interesting fact about this movement is that it runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour or 4 Hz, which differs from other Omega movements with a silicon hairspring that run at 3.5 Hz.

As a chronograph wristwatch designed for the America’s Cup – another historically significant watch with the same inspiration being the Heuer “Skipper” – the Planet Ocean Deep Black ETNZ Edition naturally comes equipped with a regatta countdown function. Taking the form of chronograph elapsed minutes at three o’clock, the regatta countdown is essentially regular elapsed minutes but with the scale changed to countdown, specifically for the 10-minute countdown to the race’s start.

Since the regatta countdown is the most crucial indicator of the chronograph, the entire minute scale has been painted in turquoise for maximum legibility. Furthermore, the usual coaxial chronograph hour hand has been replaced with an opening revealing a disc that indicates the elapsed hours. This separation ensures that it doesn’t interfere with the countdown minute reading.

The patented Naiad Lock system ensures the ETNZ logo is always in the upright position

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black ETNZ Edition Specs and Price

Movement: Cal. 9900; automatic; 60 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and chronograph
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Beyond the Surface: Three Intriguing Facts About Swatch x Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms

Lee Sheng — Mon, 25 Sep 2023 01:00:35 +0000

Beyond the Surface: Three Intriguing Facts About Swatch x Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms

We answer your questions, both technical and philosophical.

News

By Lee Sheng

Sep 25, 2023

Much like last year’s Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch collaboration, the latest partnership with sister brands at Swatch is creating a buzz. The launch of the Blancpain x Swatch Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms has drawn long queues, piquing the interest of both watch collectors and newcomers to the hobby, aligning perfectly with the series of collaborations’ intended goals.

This has sparked numerous questions about the Scuba Fifty Fathoms. Beginners want to understand its history and relevance, while collectors are curious about its movement’s durability, and both groups are contemplating its price points. In this article, we’ll address three key aspects of the watch that you might want to know: Is the movement repairable? Is the case made of plastic? Is it a dive watch like the original?

The Scuba Fifty Fathoms Antarctic Ocean

1. The watch is more repairable than it appears

Arguably, the hottest debate surrounding the Blancpain x Swatch collaboration revolves around the durability and longevity of the watch. It is commonly believed that the movement within the Scuba Fifty Fathoms, despite being an automatic mechanical movement, is not repairable, and the watch must be disposed of if any issues arise regarding timekeeping. Many lament that this contradicts Blancpain’s philosophy, which emphasises environmental preservation and sustainability.

However, our research contradicts this belief, and we confirmed this with Swatch. After years of refinement, Swatch’s mechanical watches have shown to be more repairable than previously thought. There is absolutely no need to discard the watch. Here’s why:

First, let’s understand what Sistem51 is. While Swatch is primarily known for its quartz watches, it has also ventured into mechanical watches. As a high-volume mass producer of timepieces, Swatch’s mechanical watches are designed for efficiency. They feature highly simplified movements with as few parts as possible and undergo an automated assembly process. The result is the Sistem51 movement, announced in 2013 and introduced to the market in 2014. It comprises just 51 components yet boasts impressive features such as anti-magnetism and a 90-hour power reserve.

A blow-up view of the Sistem51. The transparent disc at the top is a 'mystery' rotor.

Owing to the design of the movement, which minimises human intervention during assembly (it lacks a regulator, and timekeeping adjustments are made using lasers in the factory), concerns have arisen regarding its serviceability. These concerns are entirely valid. That’s because when Swatch released its mechanical watches with the Sistem51, the movement was hermetically sealed within the plastic case, making it non-removable, essentially rendering the watch disposable.

However, it’s worth noting that since the release of the metal-case version of the Sistem51 watches in 2016, Swatch has announced updates to make the watches repairable. An indicator of this improved serviceability is the presence of a removable case back, which is also featured in the latest Scuba Fifty Fathoms, marking a departure from the non-reversible seal found in the earliest plastic models.

We reached out to Swatch and received confirmation that the case back of the Scuba Fifty Fathoms is indeed removable, and the movement will be entirely replaced. This process is similar to how Moser replaces its modular escapement during service, with the distinction that here, the entire movement is swapped. The good news is that you no longer have to discard the entire watch.

In short, the movement inside the Scuba Fifty Fathoms watch is simple and industrial. Even its winding rotor is made of plastic, which helps keep its price affordable. While it may not meet the high standards for quality and materials seen in traditional Swiss movements (you might find it feels a bit finicky when adjusting), it scores well in terms of practical features like a 90-hour running time and resistance to magnetic fields. Most importantly, it’s not a watch you have to throw away after use, providing peace of mind for maintenance and, to some extent, sustainability.

The notches on the case back indicate that it can be removed

2. The case is not true plastic per se

When it comes to sustainability, another debate centres around the case material, commonly believed to be plastic. However, according to Swatch, the case is constructed from Bioceramic, but what exactly is Bioceramic?

According to Swatch, Bioceramic is a composite material made up of both ceramic and plastic components. Despite its appearance and tactile sensation resembling plastic rather than ceramic (which is unfortunate), it doesn’t fall under the conventional category of plastics. Its exact composition comprises two-thirds ceramic material and one-third bio-sourced plastic, which is notably different from the typical petrochemical-based plastics. Instead, it is derived from castor plant oil, a renewable and plant-based resource.

The side of the Scuba Fifty Fathoms Indian Ocean's case

On the topic of bio-sourced materials, it’s worth mentioning that the front crystal of the watch is also bio-sourced. While Swatch claims that the “glass” is made of bio-sourced material, they haven’t specified the exact material. In all likelihood, the front crystal is made from bio-sourced plastic, as traditional glass primarily consists of minerals like silica, which are not organic or biological in nature. In contrast, Swatch has mentioned that the crystal on the back is made of sapphire.

The bezel insert, which appears to be shiny, is of unknown composition; it could be made of plastic or sapphire. Regardless, it does have a beautiful sheen that improves the appearance and tactile quality. In fact, the sheen resembles the high-quality look of the sapphire bezel on the Fifty Fathoms made by Blancpain. It’s worth noting that this detail easily sets the Scuba Fifty Fathoms apart from the MoonSwatch, which had a somewhat basic appearance with its matte bezel that resembled a sticker.

One last note regarding the material is about the strap, which is made of recycled fish nets removed from the sea. While sustainability is a highlight of the strap, it also scores in terms of appearance and feel. The colour is nicely done, and, most importantly, it offers a more supple and comfortable feel compared to the earlier MoonSwatch strap.

Recycled strap with Bioceramic buckle

3. It’s ready for underwater activities

It’s now clear that the Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms harks back to the history of dive watchmaking, in fact, to its origins, as the Fifty Fathoms was one of the earliest dive watches ever made when it debuted in 1953.

However, the colourful appearance of the Swatch version has somewhat belied its technical capabilities for underwater use. In all honesty, it’s not as capable as other modern dive watches, but it does capture the original spirit of the Fifty Fathoms.

Similar to the original model from 1953, the Scuba Fifty Fathoms boasts a water resistance rating of 91 metres, equivalent to 50 fathoms. This level of water resistance surpasses the typical Swatch watches, which are often only splash-resistant. As a result, the Scuba Fifty Fathoms is well-suited for various water-related activities. However, it’s important to note that it is not ISO-rated for diving, which requires a minimum water resistance rating of 100 metres, among other criteria.

Works fine up to 91 metres underwater

Another noteworthy feature is the bezel, which quite literally shines. The scale on the bezel insert is painted with luminescent material and topped with clear plastic or crystal, allowing it to glow in low-light conditions, a feature that determines whether a dive watch is useful in dark environments. The bezel rotates in a single direction to prevent timing errors underwater and features sixty distinct clicks.

Lastly, the Scuba Fifty Fathoms comes equipped with drilled lugs. In theory, these holes facilitate easier access to and removal of the pins that secure the strap, thus simplifying the strap-changing process. However, it’s important to note that the spring bars on the Scuba Fifty Fathoms are secured with hex screws, a feature borrowed from the original Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, which adds an extra layer of security to the strap.

Fully "lumed"

Final thoughts

The Scuba Fifty Fathoms isn’t meant to compete with the original Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, a timepiece with a seven-decade history. Instead, it’s designed to be a playful and enjoyable companion to the classic. Consequently, it’s more accessible than the Fifty Fathoms, both in terms of price (though not as much when compared to other mechanical Swatches) and size.

For those who are worried about how these collaborations might impact Blancpain’s brand image, here’s another way to look at it: Blancpain could simply be sharing its design with brands that can reach a wider audience, similar to how famous artists allow luxury brands to reproduce their paintings on scarves (which can be framed and displayed like artwork).

The Scuba isn’t intended to be a mere copy or a more affordable alternative just because it’s different. It doesn’t replace the Fifty Fathoms; they each have their own unique styles, sizes, materials, construction, and finishes. Considering the price and historical significance of the Fifty Fathoms, it’s unlikely to be negatively affected by these playful Swatch tributes. However, only time will tell if these collaborations will age gracefully.

Blancpain x Swatch Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms Specs and Price

Movement: Sistem51; automatic; 90 hours power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and date (except for the Arctic Ocean and Antarctic Ocean versions)
Case: 42.3 mm; Bioceramic; water resistant to 91m
Strap: NATO strap
Price: USD 400
Limited edition: No

Update September 26, 2023: Some sources suggest that the case back is glued to the case middle and cannot be removed. We have reached out to Swatch for comments and will provide updates as soon as we receive more information.

Update October 5, 2023: We have received confirmation from Swatch that the case back is indeed removable, as initially stated in the article. Furthermore, Swatch has clarified that the movement will be replaced, rather than repaired.

Correction October 5, 2023: The ISO 6425:2018 diver’s watch certification requires a water resistance of at least 100 meters, and not 200 meters, as originally stated in the article.

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The post Beyond the Surface: Three Intriguing Facts About Swatch x Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Lee Sheng, Author at Revolution Watch

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Beyond the Surface: Three Intriguing Facts About Swatch x Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms

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1. The watch is more repairable than it appears

2. The case is not true plastic per se

3. It’s ready for underwater activities

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