Akrivia Archives - Revolution Watch

Introducing the Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie

Cheryl Chia — Tue, 10 Oct 2023 09:45:18 +0000

Introducing the Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie

Louis Vuitton kicks off a series of ongoing collaborations with celebrated independent watchmakers with a bang.

News

Oct 10, 2023

Fine watchmaking often tends to pride itself on artful execution rather than radical advancements. Chronographs, tourbillons, and chiming watches have all undeniably witnessed significant technological advancements in recent decades. However, all too often, when incorporating modern materials or pursuing novel visual effects, they tend to diverge from tradition rather than honour it. In contrast, the LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie achieves an admirable feat by bringing something new to the table in a manner that seems to affirm its place in the rich legacy of horology.

Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie

A collaborative creation between the world’s leading luxury brand Louis Vuitton and Geneva-based independent watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi, the LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie combines a chronograph with a chiming mechanism that sounds each elapsed minute in passing, along with a five-minute tourbillon. It marks the first watch in a series of five collaborations between Louis Vuitton and five independent watchmakers, all to unfold over the course of five years. The proceeds from the sale of the watch will benefit the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize, established by Jean Arnault, the youngest son of Bernard Arnault. Since entering the family business in 2021, he has made significant strides to elevate Louis Vuitton’s standing in the world of watchmaking. Not only did he revamped the Tambour, but he also revealed plans for La Fabrique du Temps to resurrect the Gerald Genta and Daniel Roth brands as well as created a €150,000 LV Watch Prize to support rising independent watchmakers.

Today, he has led Louis Vuitton to collaborate with one of the most successful stars in independent watchmaking. Limited to 10 pieces, the LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie is a double-faced watch with a tinted sapphire dial on the front that displays the mean time hours and minutes. It features six gold cubes filled with plique-à-jour enamel, which recalls Louis Vuitton’s signature Spin Time jumping hours display. The dial on the reverse is executed in white grand feu enamel, crafted by Nicolas Doublel, the in-house enameller at La Fabrique du Temps. It features twin scales for the chronographs seconds and minutes which are indicated by a pair of co-axial hands.

The case is a nod to the Louis Vuitton Tambour case, crafted by Jean-Pierre Hagmann. Made in platinum, it has a distinctive profile, characterized by a tall, sloping bezel and long, angular lugs, which perhaps compensates for the incredible discretion in its dial display. It features a predominantly brushed finish with just a hint of polish along the bezel, case middle and lugs. It measures 39.9mm in diameter and 12.2mm high, giving it a compact and reassuring presence on the wrist.

The calibre LVRR-01 within was entirely developed by Rexhep Rexhepi. It has an inverted construction with both the chronograph mechanism and sonnerie hammer and gong located on the dial side instead of the bridge side. As with a standard chiming watch, it features two mainspring barrels – one powers the timekeeping and chronograph gear trains and the other powers the sonnerie train.

The chronograph is a horizontal clutch, column wheel chronograph that is driven off the fourth wheel in the mean time gear train, just as is customary in a standard chronograph. However, its design and finish are unsurprisingly elaborate. It has a fully supported coupling lever that pivots over the drive wheel, itself supported by a black polished finger bridge. Below at the six o’clock position, a 3 Hz free-sprung balance is housed in a tourbillon cage that revolves at an exceptionally leisurely rate of five minutes per rotation, inspired by historical chronometers. Unlike the default one-minute tourbillon, slow tourbillons require a different gear ratio which results in having to install additional gear(s) in the tourbillon cage itself. In this case, it rotates on a fixed (fifth) wheel with internal teeth while a sixth wheel is installed in the tourbillon cage before the escape wheel. This results in a more visually intricate tourbillon. Additionally, the tourbillon is driven by the fourth wheel located on the periphery rather than the conventional pinion beneath the cage. Both the upper tourbillon cage and upper bridge are black-polished with numerous sharp angles.

Yet, the key aspect of the watch lies in the synchronization of the chronograph with the chiming mechanism, ensuring that it produces a chime corresponding to each passing elapsed minute, rather than mean time. Details are scarce at the moment but what we know is that the sonnerie barrel is released when the chronograph is activated via a pusher at two o’clock. It powers the strike train that is regulated by an escapement which has a single pallet interacting with a five-tooth escape wheel. The pallet unlocks the escape wheel each minute, controlling the unwinding rate of the mainspring and ensures that the sonnerie strikes precisely at the top of the minute, every minute that the chronograph is running.

The watch effectively embodies the essence of both brands while bearing no family resemblance to either one of their watch lines. But more than that, it integrates three complications in an unexpectedly surprising and surprisingly captivating way and presents a package that should be plainly appealing – a finely crafted, exotic grand complication by Rexhep Rexhepi for Louis Vuitton. It has a price tag of CHF 450,000 and is delivered in a Louis Vuitton trunk that is painted by hand with a motif drawn from the chronograph scales, and features the signatures of Rexhep Rexhepi, Jean-Pierre Hagmann, and Nicolas Doublel on its interior.

Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie

Tech Specs

Movement: LVRR-01 calibre developed by Akrivia; manual winding; power reserve of 72 hours; 3Hz or 21,600vph
Functions: Hours, minutes, tourbillon; chronograph à sonnerie
Case: 39.9mm x 12.2mm; platinum
Dial: Smoked translucent sapphire dial with six gold cubes filled with translucent Plique-à-jour fired enamel on the front; Grand Feu enamel on a palladium-gold base on the back
Strap: A Louis Vuitton strap of natural cowhide leather with a unique platinum pin buckle made by the workshop of Jean-Pierre Hagmann that bears the “JHP” hallmark.
Availability: Limited to 10 pieces
Price: CHF 450,000

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Bell & Ross

Bell & Ross x Alessandro Palazzi x Revolution & The Rake Bellytanker Chronograph "Vesper"

$5,250.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber BR.CAL-301; 42-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	41mm; CuAI7Si2 bronze; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices
Strap	Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post Introducing the Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie appeared first on Revolution Watch.

First Impressions: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique for Only Watch 2023

Cheryl Chia — Wed, 30 Aug 2023 03:41:27 +0000

First Impressions: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique for Only Watch 2023

Rexhep Rexhepi releases a magnetism-resistant chronometer with an impressively and elaborately constructed movement.

News

By Cheryl Chia

Aug 30, 2023

Having mastered the art of excellence in a time-only watch with the RRCC I, Rexhep Rexhepi went on to release the RRCC II for Only Watch 2021, which while still being time-only, incorporated an independently driven dead seconds. Continuing with this same approach of time-only watches that shoot for the sky in their quality of design and finishing, the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA), made for Only Watch 2023 and unveiled a day ahead of Geneva Watch Days, proves to be exceptionally impressive, exceeding expectations on many levels. The watch is cased in steel and features a brand-new movement with a seconds reset function, along with a highly elaborate indirectly driven central seconds.

Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique

Rexhep drew inspiration from the antimagnetic watches of the midcentury, which was an era marked by discoveries in places like the Earth’s poles and within the burgeoning field of nuclear plants as well as rapid technological advancement and industrialization. In response to the challenges posed by environments rich in magnetic forces, antimagnetic watches featuring soft iron Faraday cages or antimagnetic escapements surfaced to serve the needs of professionals traversing these magnetically charged settings. This wave of watches introduced notable models such as the Rolex Milgauss, engineered to endure magnetic fields of up to 1,000 gauss, alongside offerings like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic, the Omega Railmaster, the IWC Ingenieur, and the Patek reference 3417.

The RRCA showcases a sector dial featuring an inner hour scale composed of alternating blocks, symbolizing the contrasting polarities of a magnetic field. Though it appears to be a classic glossy gilt dial, it is in fact executed in Grand Feu enamel. The hour and minute scales are engraved on a silver dial base and filled with gold enamel before undergoing the firing process in an oven. The hands are all made of solid gold and are attached to their own steel hubs that are beveled and polished.

Stunning gilt sector dial executed in Grand Feu enamel

At 38 mm by 9.9mm high, the RRCA retains the same diameter as the RRCC I and II but is slightly thicker. For reference, the RRCC I measures 9.5mm while the RRCC II is 8.75mm. This is due to the method with which the RRCA achieves an indirectly driven central seconds as well as the case construction. The case is made of antimagnetic stainless steel, distinguished from standard stainless steel by its specific alloy composition, providing increased resistance to magnetic fields. It represents one of the few instances of antimagnetic steel cases made by the Jean-Pierre Hagmann workshop and the first for Rexhep Rexhepi. Within the case is a movement ring and dial made of ferritic stainless steel, forming a Faraday cage that protects the movement from magnetism.

A hand-engraved lightning bolt, a universal symbol for magnetism, serves as the reference point to correctly align the caseback

Composed of 30 parts including individually soldered lugs, the case features a multi-stepped bezel that is finished with alternating polished and brushed surfaces and is accompanied by long and slender chamfered lugs. It also has an outer screw-down steel back that can be completely removed to reveal the movement through a sapphire case back.

The movement within has been meticulously attended to with the same level of dedication evident in the dial and case. It has a very unusual centre seconds construction for a movement that was built from the ground up, and was clearly intended to recall the earliest centre seconds movements in watchmaking, which were indirectly driven. One of the earliest examples was the Patek 12-120 SC which was converted to a central seconds by installing three additional gears driven off the fourth wheel, with the intermediate wheel supported by a pivoted lever.

The auxiliary train used to achieve central seconds comprises of three wheels driven off the fourth wheel underneath at four o'clock

Such solutions in time-only movements are rarely seen in modern watchmaking today as most central seconds movements are designed with a straightforward approach, using a directly driven seconds hand (where the fourth wheel is positioned directly in the center) or an indirect approach that takes height into account particularly for automatic movements (such as having the third wheel drive a pinion for the central seconds). Rarely are these many wheels added from the very beginning, if not to recall an earlier time in watchmaking history.

With the mainspring barrel located at 12 o’clock under a large barrel bridge and the great wheel underneath in the centre, the RRCA movement incorporates three additional wheels that sit above the path of the gear train with an extension wheel at four o’clock mounted directly on the pivot of the fourth wheel. It’s hard to see from the pictures but a setup of this nature, or any auxiliary train in a movement for that matter, requires the use of tensioners to minimize any potential backlash.

The central seconds wheel is supported by a traversing bridge that is rounded and polished, rising upwards in the middle to accommodate the zero-reset mechanism

Each of the three additional wheels are supported by their own bridge; the second wheel in the auxiliary train is secured by a full bridge that sits a level below those supporting the first and third wheels. Additionally, a traversing bridge supports the balance wheel at six o’clock, resulting in a satisfyingly dense construction. As such, the escapement appears to adopt a sideways lever for compactness, which is made of 14k gold. The balance pivot has a circular, black-polished steel hub that is secured by three screws – a traditional design commonly found in movements prior to the invention of shock absorbers. It is an attractive detail but naturally, the balance also incorporates a shock absorber.

The mirrored bridge at eight o’clock supports a lever that pushes against a heart cam on the pivot of the central seconds wheel when the crown is pulled out, returning the seconds hand to zero like in a chronograph. As usual, the movement was designed to demonstrate the highest level of finishing. It preserves the symmetrical layout found in the RRCC I and II, with a polished, rounded steel bridge taking center stage. This bridge gracefully ascends at its center to accommodate the zero-reset mechanism.

The bridge at eight o'clock supports the reset lever which pushes against the heart cam on the central seconds wheel, sending the seconds hand back to zero for precise adjustment

The finely finished wheels with sharp internal angles. The escapement sits close to the balance wheel beneath, possibly employing a sideways lever

All told, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique for Only Watch is an incredibly fascinating proposition, distinguishing itself, in its aspirations and execution, not only amid the assortment of timepieces contributed to the charitable auction but also within the collection of watches crafted by Rexhep Rexhepi/Akrivia and within the wider watch world. It has an estimate of CHF 100,000 – CHF 150,000 but if recent performance is anything to go by, these numbers will add up to very little.

Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique

Tech Specs

Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique for Only Watch 2023

Movement: Manual winding with hacking, zero-reset seconds for precise time setting; protected by a Faraday cage formed by a movement ring and dial made of ferritic stainless steel; frequency of 3 Hz or 21,600 vph; 72-hour power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes and central seconds
Case: 38 mm by 9.90 mm (excluding sapphire crystals); stainless steel with screw-down outer case back; water resistant to 30m
Dial: Black enamel Grand Feu with stainless steel hands
Strap: Ripstop Fabric
Price: Estimate CHF 100,000 – CHF 150,000

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$5,250.00

TECH SPECS

Movement	Self-winding caliber BR.CAL-301; 42-hour power reserve
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph and date
Case	41mm; CuAI7Si2 bronze; water resistant to 100m
Dial	Sunray brushed with applied, gold-plated indices
Strap	Black calfskin; satin polished bronze folding clasp
Limited Edition	Limited edition of 50 pieces

The post First Impressions: Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique for Only Watch 2023 appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Unveiling Akrivia’s Only Watch 2023 | In Conversation with Rexhep Rexhepi

Revolution — Mon, 28 Aug 2023 09:00:58 +0000

Constant sat down with Rexhep Rexhepi, the founder and owner of Akrivia, in his illustrious Atelier in Genève for an exclusive preview of the pièce unique created by Akrivia for the upcoming Only Watch 2023 auction.

Rexhep showcased his unparalleled craftsmanship and innovative design creativity and created a timepiece with all new designed parts specially created to commemorate his third entry into this renowned auction.

The timepiece features a striking black enamel dial adorned with multiple gilt sector tracks, exuding a sense of pure elegance. The meticulously crafted three-dimensional hands further enhance the watch’s aesthetic appeal. The double-stepped stainless steel case showcases Rexhep’s exceptional attention to detail, appearing to have more steps than expected, creating a captivating illusion.

Drawing inspiration from laboratory-style watches, Rexhep incorporated a robust and functional big crown, enabling more efficient winding and time setting. The watch also boasts a Farraday cage removable case back for anti-magnetism, which can be easily detached to reveal the newly developed movement within. The closing back mechanism exudes a satisfying feel when the case back is locked back in place, adding to the overall sense of craftsmanship and precision.

This masterpiece is truly awe-inspiring and each component of the watch has been masterfully finished, showcasing the expertise and dedication of Rexhep’s craft. The result is a timepiece that evokes a sense of passion and admiration for the highest level of horology. The watch is a testament to Rexhep Rexhepi’s unwavering commitment to excellence and his ability to create timepieces that are truly exceptional.

Owning this masterpiece transcends the mere possession of a watch; it is acquiring an exquisite work of art meticulously crafted by one of the most celebrated and passionate watchmakers in the modern world.

The post Unveiling Akrivia’s Only Watch 2023 | In Conversation with Rexhep Rexhepi appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Revolutionary of The Year 2022: Rexhep Rexhepi

Wei Koh — Mon, 19 Dec 2022 10:00:11 +0000

It has been a phenomenal year for the watch world. To round off 2022, we are celebrating the hits, the wonders, the visionaries and all the people in watchmaking who have made it so memorable in our annual Revolution Awards and Power Lists.

Today we celebrate one of the most exciting young watchmakers working today. The revolutionary Rexhep Rexhepi, founder of Akrivia.

It is almost unbelievable to me that the young watchmaker with the greatest disparity in terms of the number of watches he is producing each year and the number of people that want to buy them, did not sell a watch for the first two and a half years of his brand’s existence. How things have changed and the timepiece that changed everything for him was the Chronomètre Contemporain, the first watch emblazoned with his name on the dial and unveiling his classical interpretation of a men’s watch.

The Chronomètre Contemporain II launched this year features a star-and-flirt dead seconds mechanism and the sexiest lugs in existence

But the marvelous thing about Rexhepi is that he is never content to rest on his laurels — he has tracked down and convinced case-making legend Jean-Pierre Hagmann to join his operation, unveiling the jaw-droppingly beautiful Chronomètre Contemporain II, featuring a star-and-flirt dead seconds mechanism and the sexiest lugs in existence.

Chronomètre Contemporain

Rexhepi’s brand continues to ascend to the pantheon of the horological Valhalla as he steadily builds each new chapter of his brand with masterful assurance.

The post Revolutionary of The Year 2022: Rexhep Rexhepi appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Legends of Independent Watchmaking: Rexhep Rexhepi

Revolution — Fri, 14 Oct 2022 00:39:59 +0000

Wei speaks one-on-one with Rexhep Rexhepi, a panelist from our Legends of Independent Watchmaking Horological Symposium at Geneva Watch Days 2022, to learn about his journey of becoming one of the most celebrated watchmakers in the modern era.

It has been 10 years since Rexhep founded AkriviA and in that time he has had to overcome significant challenges, being an immigrant from Kosovo, and the initial difficulty of having people appreciate his vision for watchmaking. The quality of his movement finishing and decoration is now regarded as one of the best in the business and this year, he has been nominated for the GPHG once again, having already won in 2018.

The post Legends of Independent Watchmaking: Rexhep Rexhepi appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Introducing the Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain II

Felix Scholz — Tue, 31 May 2022 09:00:25 +0000

It is incredible to think that Akrivia, the brainchild of Rexhep Rexhepi, is almost 10 years old. Not only does the brand have the cachet and credibility of a much older house, but the designs also exhibit a degree of maturity and sophistication that belie their relative youth. And as of today, we are treated to the second iteration of the Chronomètre Contemporain.

The Low-Down

At first glance, not too much has changed with the Chronomètre Contemporain II. The dial is superbly done grand feu enamel with the technical and contemporary Roman numeral layout, in ivory or black, depending on the case material. Speaking of cases, this is one element that has been refined, thanks in no small part to the work of legendary case maker Jean-Pierre Hagmann. The case is comprised of 15 parts, with soldered lugs, which have been subtly improved in this generation with a more pronounced arch. This new case measures 38mm across and 8.75mm tall, but that excludes the dome, which is more pronounced than previously. The case is offered in either platinum or rose gold. The winding crown is a little larger for improved handling.

Turn the watch around, and while the calibre RRCC02 looks like the movement from the original model. This calibre is, in fact, completely new, but in the style of the original. It boasts twin gear trains and barrels, one powering the balance wheel, the other the jumping seconds. While this is the most major modification, it’s far from the only one. The balance wheel now uses regulating screws leading to more inertia which, added to the greater torque of the new balance spring, makes for greater accuracy throughout the entirety of the watches power reserve. On top of that, there’s a great user-friendly feature in the form of hacking seconds that resets to 12 when the crown is pulled out. Not an earth-shattering revelation, but handy nonetheless.

IMHO

The Chronomètre Contemporain has been regarded, rightfully, as one of the greatest new watches of the last decade. And Akrivia hasn’t messed with any of the elements that make it so good. The second-generation amplifies and refines the exterior, improving on the case in meaningful ways. However, it’s on the inside that the greatest differences can be found. Calibre RRCC02 is a great example of thoughtful, wearer-focused watchmaking. Of course, it looks spectacular, with its German silver plates and traditional hand-finishing, but it is really worth noting is that every mechanical improvement has been made to improve the experience and utility of the wearer. Because of this, the Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain II is a worthy update to the original.

Tech Specs

Movement: Calibre RRCC02, manual wind, 82 hours of power reserve, free-sprung, adjustable mass balance with eight inertial and four poising screws, fitted to a balance-spring with Breguet terminal curve
Functions: Subsidiary dead-beat seconds with hacking and zero-reset, sweep central hours and minutes
Case: Rose gold or platinum, 38mm x 8.775mm excluding crystal, 3ATM water-resistance
Strap: Fine calfskin with two-tone finish, hand-stitched in Geneva, and attached to platinum or gold pin buckle

The post Introducing the Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain II appeared first on Revolution Watch.

Akrivia Archives - Revolution Watch

Introducing the Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie

Introducing the Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie

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Akrivia Archives - Revolution Watch

Introducing the Louis Vuitton x Akrivia LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie

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